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Had a look on the net for your needle, Christ they are rare aren't they, have you considered just changing the whole carb to something else that might fit instead? Believe it or not most of the threads that had your carb on them were for lawn mowers and ATVs. Another thread I found was for MIKUNI itself, they can supply a new carb for you if you contact them according to their website, you best be sitting down when they tell you the price tho. Your best bet might be to buy a whole bike/scrapper and rob the bit's you want off of that. Good luck in your quest mate. PS there were loads of parts for the RT180 version, will they fit?

5 Pound lump hammer and a tin of WD40 what more do you need in your tool box? Nice one mate should look the business when your done.

Would be great to have I suppose right up till you came off the bike and it grabbed the ground and snapped your neck.

No Prob mate, glad you got it sorted, now all you want is the sun to shine!

If you haven't got one then buy the manual for it, that has most of your basic info inside and saves loads of "WTF is that" moments.

Hi Barry, Welcome to the YOC, strokers are fun but take more fettling than 4 strokes, glad your still in the race mate.

Sounds like you have a dead plate in your battery, if the voltage is , as you say 13V, then it drops to 0V when you try to start it the battery is toast. If you have a car then connect the battery terminals to your car with a set of jump leads, DO NOT have the car engine running cos it will cook your electrics on the bike, then try to start it, if it starts ok then you have your problem sorted with a new battery. Try the simple things first before you start thinking about wiring looms or blown fuses.

I bought some stuff many years ago called "Seek & Seal" that was supposed to seal any small gaps and cracks in rubber might be worth trying. Or something like this perhaps? Brake and Pipe Sealant - Elastic Gasket - Leak Seal 75ml - M256. Paint it on the outside and see if it works? Copy and paste the bold writing into ebay should find it.

Good luck Simon hope it goes well.

I have had a look on the net for a part for your bike, they are buggers to get bit's for aren't they? Is your present manifold rubber totally knackered? is it possible to repair it in any way? How about some rubber solution of some type painted on or wrapped around to give you a temporary fix till you can find a scrapper that has the bits you want. AH the rev posted just while I was writing.

The reason it's plastic/rubber is to stop it boiling (heat transfer) the fuel in your carb, you can I suppose get one made but you will be sitting with a bomb under your tank/seat and right below your bollocks !!!

Thanks for that info, I had one of these (fitted by the previous owner) on my AJS in 1968 and never did understand how the damned thing worked, kick start of course so no problems with starter motors. Even after all this time it's nice to finally understand how it all worked. Never to old to learn something are you?

Welcome to the YOC Spartan.

Here's a friend for you Mc

Why am I not surprised ?

They were having a laugh, not with you I admit but it was not meant to be nasty just leg pulling. Unfortunately it's just a part of how it goes not just on here but all over the web, no one wants you to be upset and nor do we want you to be without your ride, just take a breath and try again mate someone will be more than willing to help out if they can and even offer advice on what might fit your bike from something else. No one is asking you to do anything you don't want they were just asking what the problem was, look back at the begining of your post and try and see what made them write what they did, if you can see their point you can accept it for what it is rather than having a go at you. Just saying mind, if you still think we're a bunch of tossers so be it but no one was doing anything other than taking the piss and some times they get it wrong. To be honest we can sometimes be tossers but we try to help when we can. Don't leave mad mate, we want folks to join in not rip them new arse holes.

Nice Jonny, really nice mate, someone tries to help and you call them a "****" ok they were also pointing out that you had not actually said what was wrong but still mate a bit like throwing your toys out of the pram cos they didn't answer your question immediately seems a touch over the top. No one deserves to be spoken to like that, how would you feel if you tried to help and they turned round and said that?

HI Tex, Welcome to the YOC.

Hi Tex, what your asking for is if someone has a copy of the diagram to give to you right? sorry to say that these things are copy righted and we will get all sort's of shit if we give you a copy. Your best bet is to find a manual for your bike Something like this or a Clymer if your in the US of A. It's not that we don't want to help it's that the powers that be will have our bollocks on a sharp stick if we do. Just do a GOOGLE search for what you want and see what comes up (I just did and there are loads of diagrams on the net) Hope some of that helps and hope you stick around as we like new folks to join in. Take care and stay safe.

Not the battery the generator in the engine produces the high voltage well over 14v in fact the regulator reduces the voltage down to a manageable level, that's why if you regulator goes pop so do your bulbs and wiring. When the power reaches your battery it is enough to charge the battery and run the lights and stuff, to many addons can overwhelm the regulator, that's why it gets hot and burns out, you should check your bikes maximum voltage output before you add any extras like lights or GPS & mobile phones. Hope that helps? Try this to give you some idea of what happens when your bike is running, not the same as yours but close enough. http://www.electronicamotos.com.ar/technical-resources/library/known-issues/street_65700.html

Glad you could join us we need all the good looking men we can get we are after all a bunch of UGLY FUCKERS!!!

I have the Oxford optimser battery charger, cost about £45 and keeps the battery charged right through the winter plus it keeps it from doing the usual thing of over cooking like most cheap chargers do, if your going to buy a good top of the range battery then you need a good top of the range charger, cost is expensive to start out but if it saves you buying a new battery every year or so then it really is worth it. Just my 10 pence worth you understand but I would not be without it now. You can use it on the Motobatt batteries, just cos they sell one don't mean you have to use theirs.

Not ever seen a torque setting for the bolts I just know "DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THEM" cos the bloody things snap like a carrot if you do, even hand tight was a bit over the top on the Suzuki's just pinch them up till they touch the flat of the bolt to the face of the clutch plate then about (guessing here) 1/2 a turn, probably about 6 or 7 ft/lbs at most mate. You really think "That's never going to hold" but it will honest. Plus you can,if you have a micrometer, measure the length of the springs to make sure they are in side the tolerance, if not then up against a good steel rule will do in a pinch.

As above pod filters are a bastard to set up and YES you will need to rejet or even drill your carbs and then rethread the internals, so if you do that then the next guy who buys the bike will need a new set of carbs if he wants to go stock. Drum brakes on the rear or discs are about the same to be honest, I actually prefer the drum rear as it has less tendency to grab and slide, just my opinion mind you.

I enjoyed that Lassy, thank you. 2 clever kids.