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Ok, first of all "this is NOT a car" you can't just change gear like you do in most other forms of transport, with bikes you need to be aware that they need to be moving, if only slightly, to get them into gear, what you do is, pull the clutch in move the bike forward or backward as you pull in the clutch and select a gear, this will mean that if your in the "wrong" gear when you stop you will have to faff about trying to find the right gear from a standstill, not always easy and can make you look a total prat , but that's how it works. So even if you have to slam your anchors on try to remember to change down as well, not always easy but doable if you have enough practice, as your new to the biking world you only get to know about how your bike works by reading the manual and asking questions, you can't ask daft questions cos it's all new to you. try to be more aware of your surroundings and read the road in front of you, this way you can anticipate the traffic and avoid this problem. Don't worry and get freaked out by this, it all comes together with practice. Stay safe. If you find yourself in say 3rd gear and stuck just rock the bike backwards and forwards as you press the gear change down with the clutch pulled in and let the clutch just bite as you select each gear, then as it bites pull the lever back again to go down another gear. Find a place that's safe and do it on purpose that way when it happens "for real" you will be ready and won't look a dick.

Oh dear Captf you seem to have kicked off the "all cyclist are arseholes" debate again, they are not, it's just some are a bit to free with their interpretation of the rules of the road. Still good on you mate for the video, it might just keep some from doing the same thing.

I have some 1.629mm left over, your welcome to that. Does wear out quickly tho !!!

Now that is funny, how many people will try this do you think? Just love the spoons.

Yeah me to, thanks Tommy !

Just had another think about this and would suggest that the first thing you take off is the engine side cover over the clutch, if there is a problem in there it might save you having to take the engine out, you might as well do the easy things first cos you never know it might save you time and money, the next thing I would do is take the rocker cover off and see if you have a dropped valve, should be easy to see and you can check your springs as well cos if one of those is broke then you have an immediate solution to your problem, as I said I would start with the easy things first. good luck mate.

You need a photo of the underside to be sure it fit's, my 3CV has a lip at the front that the 1TX doesn't so be sure before you shovel loads of cash out. Pretty seat tho mate.

Bet he's not oblivious now !! What a dick it's not like it was small is it.

Usually you can get the heads off and the barrels but after that it's a bit more complicated, if you need to get at the internals of the engine then it is only possible to do that with the engine out, at least that's been my experience. Your bike might be different but it's best to take the engine out as it makes it easier if you have it on a bench and can get at it. It does sound like something has come adrift in your engine from what you describe I would guess at something in the gearbox but that's just my opinion. Good luck with it and DON'T resort to a big hammer and lot's of swearing, slow and steady is the best, just do what you can and the minute you feel the need to hit something make a cup of tea.

Any number of things can make your engine not turn over, dropped valve, broken selector fork or broken gear, piston rings jammed, clutch chain broken or clutch gear jammed, cam chain broken or stripped. These are the most common, so you need to rock the engine back and forth with the plugs out to see if it will move the pistons up and down and where the thing stops moving, listen for a sudden "clunk" if it stops suddenly and that will tell you if it's something broken off, one thing you should check is, as Noise says, is there a full amount of oil in the thing cos if your low or maybe even empty then there's your problem.

Why not just oil/lube the fan? If you can get it off then it is usually just muck and crap that causes it to run slow, sometimes it's the brushes worn out but most often it's just neglect in keeping it clean. Most folks think it is enough to just wash the bike but some things need a more intimate approach.

That looks like a real solution to your problem, bit more work that a straight swap but if it saves you a shed load of cash then go for it. Might be an idea to get that saved on the site somehow, others could benefit from what your doing. Good luck mate.

Oh that will be me then ! Or not anywho welcome aboard.

Hi Paul, welcome to the YOC.

Hi JV, welcome to the YOC, back in the day we used to cut a piece of stainless rack to fit but they do sell stuff like this that you can adapt to fit.

If they laugh at you for wanting to know more then you don't want to work with or for them anyway, you encourage new people in by being fair and firm and showing them the right way. Just go in and say your interested and could they see their way to letting you observe for a while what they do, then as you get to know them they might ask you to help out in your spare time, loads of kids have got their start from just volunteering. The worst thing anyone can say is NO, that don't hurt and there's plenty of folks who want someone to help even if it's only for a few hours a week.

Have you fixed it yet ???

Fresh fuel always makes a difference, especially as yours has been sitting in the tank over winter, after about 3 months it separates out and rots the shit out of any metal it comes into contact with. You might need to clean the carbs as well as sitting with this ethanol shit in them could bung them up something fierce.

Hi Brian.

CAN'T PAY WE'LL TAKE IT AWAY.

Hi Alan, welcome to the YOC.

Don't go for "nice" go for practical, even if it's fugly your better off with good than pretty.

Just tried to cancel the INS on the FJ when I bought the FJR, they said and I quote " If you cancel the policy then the admin charge will be MORE than the new policy" WTF so I just changed the reg number on the policy, that still cost me £79 which was more than the I was quoted for NEW insurance online with compare the market but would have still left me with an admin charge from the original policy which had the remainder of the policy (10 months) to run AND an admin charge. They say Bankers are robbing sod's well my opinion of insurance companies is rapidly going down hill.

Try putting your problem in the "Workshop" area of the site, describe the problem and what the bike is doing and someone will help out, might take a couple of days but most likely only a few hours for a suggestion to come along. Welcome to the YOC glad you could join us.

2nd set look ace Tommy, plus they have a set of rain covers so at least the kit inside will be out of the worst of the weather.