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Usually there is a rubber block attached to the bike at the bottom that the stand rests against, if you have the manual then it will be in there somewhere usually in amongst the frame and fittings section. See the upper arm? there is a bracket with a hole in it, my best guess is that it should have a rubber bung in there. I don't own one but that would be where I would put it.

As above, buy a new lever, if it's bent then throw it away and get another one. The last thing you need it to try the brakes and the lever snaps.

Have you found them? A reply always helps or a "thank you" even an INTRO in new members section goes a long way.

There you go then problem solved, but you might as well buy a top end gasket set and change all the gaskets and valve seals while you have it apart, that way your covered in case any of the others are buggered. Might also be an idea to say "Hello" in the new members section (HINT!)

Nigel, if your wife reads this and see's what you said about her cooking you are so FUCKED

NSD, I have talked to Ray and he has it in hand, some things he can't say yet as Yamaha are in the throes of making a decision about his problem. If he says anything it might queer his pitch.

Hi Scott, welcome to the YOC and the world of biking, if you have questions, and you will, just ask, we were all once a noob and theres no shame in asking advice, there are no daft questions when you know nothing. Well done on passing your CBT.

Ok look at the top of the carbs, between the carb and the throttle body you will see 4 rubber caps with metal clips, the same as hold on small water pipes, take off the metal clips pull off the rubber caps and that's where you put the balance pipes.

That's the best way Noise, I laid everything down on sheets roughly where I thought it should go, took me hours to figure out. Plus you get to see what you don't have, that can be a shock !!

Roman candle dick or is that just DICK !

Tasky I'm afraid Ray is right the part new, there are no second hand ones, is £5000 plus. I have sent Ray a PM cos I have had a word with Doc at the FJ lub and he want's to see the bike.

Sorry to hear that Tommy. I feel for you mate.

Ray, just so I'm clear on this, you don't want an after market part you want the original part as supplied by Yamaha is that correct? The only reason I ask is that if you want to have a new suspension that works with your bike you either need the original or a replacement and the original is what costs so much money I'm talking NON-ORIGINAL parts here that will fit your bike and work better but if you wnat an original part them your going to have to fork out a lot more money, the after market parts are better in most respects up to and including materials used and quality of the finish. This is just so I'm clear on what your after you understand as there's no point my telling you about a part if your going down the original equipment route. I will phone Doc at the FJ club later today and see if he can give me a price to supply and fit a mono shock for you. This does mean you will have to join the club but at £12 a year it's nothing if you save 4 grand on your bikes parts. Ray, just spoke to the FJ club and told them your tale of woe, they confirm that your shock being so new is not as yet available but there are shocks that will fit. I'm going to send you a PM message and perhaps when you get a minute you can give me a call.

Ok Ray, fair enough, you can have a look at the one from the FJ club that will fit your bike and if you ride it there they will fit it the same day, once youe've booked it in of course. Look at their listed price for shock replacement and add the two together and that's what you pay. Good hunting.

Sniff is it wansn't for you this thread would die, I almost died laughing at the last one.

Sorry to belabour the point Ray but HOW OLD is the bike? If you have done 1500 miles but the bike has done 100,000 then it's due a new one anyway. Ok if the one I pointed out don't fit this one will it's for ALL models and costs £389 http://www.fjrcatalogue.com/catalog/item/8976934/7692238.htm Still don't see where the other £4000 odd quid extra comes from? I bought mine for just over 2 grand and that was with all the travelling included. I could have bought 3 at that price !!!

Ok Ray, first things first, are you a member of the FJ owners club? If not join today www.fjclub.co.uk (click on the fjr catalogue, bottom left side) they will give you a price for supply or supply and fit that I'm pretty sure will be much much cheaper than you have been quoted, go to the website and see what they price your shock at, quite a few on here are members and we all save money on parts by dealing with them. Really knowledgable about the FJ and FJR as that's all they work on. Can you answer the question tho is your bike new? and I still say that if it has done 1500 miles from new then the shock is not fit for purpose and you should have a case to get it replaced under their guarantee, Look here for the price of a NEW shock supplied by the club http://www.fjrcatalogue.com/catalog/item/8976934/7684359.htm one of the best out there and THOUSANDS cheaper than you were quoted.

Oh Shit didn't even see that, thanks Kev. Ok moving swiftly on !! Try looking here as well, Citizens advice can be a source of help. Look here. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/claim-using-a-warranty-or-guarantee/

No, but they do have a hard life, mine is original from 2001 but just bought a new one from France for £175, if you go to ebay and put in FJR1300 shock absorber you will find dozens of them on there, choice is yours from new to really used! What year is your bike? and did you get it from new? Cos if you bought it new then you have a 2 year warranty on parts, don't listen to them telling you it's not under warranty cos if nothing else the EU rules and regs say it has to have a "reasonable" life and 1500 miles is NOT reasonable. Go here and read what it says, print it out and take it back to your dealer, THEY HAVE NO CHOICE other than to replace faulty goods. http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-1677034/Two-year-warranty-EU-law.html If you get nowhere with that get back to me and I will tell you how to get it sorted. You don't say but where in the UK are you? (helps if you fill out your details) One other thing PLEASE do an INTRO in new members section, it helps if folks think your serious and not a one hit wonder. Just out of curiosity, where did you get the figure of £5149 for a replacement shock? cos they have NEVER cost that much even the top quality after market ones are only £800 to £900 .

That's a bit of a bugger isn't it? As Kev says your best bet is a new wheel I'm afraid, drilling that close to the edge of the rim is going to be a nightmare, you could weld an ally tab onto it but not sure how long that would last. Do you know anyone that does ally welding? You could get them to do a build up of weld and then file and grind it back to size but will be a hell of a good welder to get it just right, can't you find a cheap second hand wheel?

Don't think you need any special tools for the engine strip, can you take it back? Looks like the guy who sold it to you must have known that this was a problem, there's no way that wasn't obvious and if he told you it was fine then he's a lying arsehole !!! If your going to keep it then you should use genuine parts but second hand will be fine for something like this, just check for cracks and breaks BEFORE you part with your money, don't think this is a common fault with this bike and seems to be just the luck of the draw when it comes to parts breaking. Buy the manual (Haynes or Clymr) when you can as that has most of the details that you will need to get the thing apart, remember take LOT'S of photos as you strip it, that way you can get it back together properly. Good luck and keep telling us what's happening. As for front fork well you could watch this to get some ideas. https://youtu.be/vrmYJgcGX30 Tells you about normal and USD fork plus some info on cartridge forks as well, watch it all the way through and you will see it's easy and even does away with the need for "special" tools.

No Tommy they are just a nuisance the others are people who just can't leave things alone, you know the type "It's more than my job's worth" mob.

Yep run it down hill and leap on dump the clutch in second gear and hang on for all your worth, makes an exciting first ride. Afraid as Drewpy says the sprag clutch can be a bit of a bastard, take the starter motor off first tho and see if it might just be a worn gear on the end of the shaft. One good thing about this bike tho they are easy to work on and getting the engine out is a piece of piss.

Oh dear, I think you have created a monster Kev.

Hi Dave, if you look at the header for this post you will see it was last updated in 2013 and the original poster has only 2 posts so pretty sure he's not coming back. Some folks get the answer they want (or not) then never return. Check the date please before you drag up old threads.