slice

I parked up in a service station some years ago returning from France, windscreen was covered in stickers from various ferries and other stuff, they didn't see the disabled sticker I have and sent me a £60 fine, fortunately my youngest son had taken a photo of the car, just by chance believe it or not, he was only 8 at the time but it clearly showed the car and the ticket. Got an apology and a free meal ticket from the company! Always pays to fight these sort of things they have a job to do but it has to be right.

Well that's a pretty pickle to be in, where are you in the world cos I have a 24mil spanner your more than welcome to borrow mate. a 15/16th spanner is also a near fit if you have one of those? Mole grips will work as long as your careful to use the flats on the nut/bolt, you only chew them up if your bearing down on the wrong part, sure you know this, I'll even post you the spanner if it helps.

Hi Grouch, glad your still about mate, fit an alarm or get one fitted, they won't stop it getting nicked but if it goes off then they usually run and leave it for easier meat, this is the one I'm thinking if fitting to the FJR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201267257704?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT but they do come cheaper and only cost a few quid to be fitted by any competent mechanic/electrical engineer, takes about day to fit if it's your first one and immobilises the bike. The guy selling these is NCook security and he will send an exact diagram for you bike to make the fitting easier, just look at his web site, choose the one you want and your done.

Well to be honest I think if they sent you 2 photos that don't show you actually doing what they say your doing I would at the very least ask for more information, like an actual photo of you going past the sign in question? Sometimes they can and sometimes they can't, if they can't then it's your word against theirs and that is where you say "PROVE IT!" Make them earn their money don't just lay down and accept what they say. Just my opinion mind and you MUST get them to hold off on the larger fine while it's investigated cos otherwise by trying to prove your innocence the fine usually doubles or triples, get the info in writing as well, talk to your local CAB, they have a solicitor on board most of the time and it's free for the first hour.

Lassy the bike cost me £2500, the wife's shopping trip (are you sitting down?) was the grand total of £4345 inc flight and hotel, I mumbled a bit but knew which side my bread was buttered mate, if I moan I'm going to get "well you have got a new bike!" and to be honest I don't really mind she goes to work and if she enjoyed it why not, you only live once and as they say a shroud don't have pockets. Plus I got a good deal on the Titanium cans for the bike which she said nothing about, PipeweX Titanium with demountable baffles, I think it sounds awesome.

Ok well that's odd, if it was me I would try an engine flush, means you have to throw away your new oil but it might be just something gunged up. You say the valves were out after you had adjusted them, is it possible you did them wrong like 180 degrees out? A scored cam usually means it was to tight which is why I ask. Just throwing ideas out there really, bit of a bastard mate, not a good idea to ignore these sort of things they turn round and bite you in the arse if you leave them usually when your right in a place where you don't want to break down. As it's moved (the noise) ! is it exactly the same type of noise or something different? All else fails video the thing and let us have listen, you never know it might be obvious to someone.

Only way to tell is to have measured it while you had it apart really, doubtful but if it's gone then don't worry about it, if it comes back then think about it again, as I said it can take a while for the tensioner to fully get the chain settled it might just be you've moved something or even freed something sticky up, the joys of motorcycling, low tick over can also sometimes make a ticking noise the piston is to slow in the barrel and it rattles, try turning the revs up by a couple of hundred and see if that helps next time it appears. Well done anyway to get it all sorted and back on the road.

Bad luck mate but to carry on with this "ticking " noise is it like this? https://youtu.be/Q0z63ymu4eA Can you video it and put it up on here, it's always easier if you can see and hear what's going on.

Lovely set of machines Jack, I imagine the "Human female" has an annoying whine tho, both my boy's had it as well, fixed it with a large helping of fuel.

Hi Clive, Don't know your particular bike but most mirrors have a ball and socket connector at the top lower base of the mirror for adjustment, I think your talking about the actual mounting bolts/nut's for your mirror, might be wrong but you usually just grad the mirror body and twist it to where you want it to be, they are usually fairly stiff cos you don't want them waggling about when your riding the bike. something like this one, see the connector going into the back of the mirror body, yours might be completely different of course but this is how most of them work. Hope that helps mate. Thinking about it if it moved when you knocked it it should move back to the original place by just grabbing it and firmly tweaking it to the original position.

Try the second one down Sacha seems to be a problem with the first one.

Should think it was not a major thing to get them heated and a slight tweek to set them straight. You might even be able to do it cold with a fly press or such.

Yep just looked it up, diesel oil does not have the additives that petrol engine oil has, as long as the weight is right and it fulfills the other criteria that your engine needs apparently it's not a major problem to run this stuff in your engine, think I will stick to the "proper" stuff tho and let someone else try it first, let me know how you got on !!

Cam chain tensioner perhaps? Some take a while to get the tension right. How about the timing rotor they can be noisy. Or worse case a sticky link in the cam chain? Can't think of anything else off the top of my head. Just thought, does it do it when the clutch is pulled in? Thinking primary chain or cage rattle.

Ok I'll bite, DIESEL oil in a bike, Really!! Or is this a piss take? Cos as far as I know CAR (Diesel or Petrol) oil has additives that f**k your wet clutch up, Now I know that heavy V twin air cooled bikes can be hard on their oil but if you have a wet clutch aren't you going to wreck it? Just asking mind cos things do change and it's always nice to have new knowledge if it's out there and works.

Have you thought of making a short video of what's happening? I know it sounds daft but if you look on YouTube there are loads of vids about things like this, it really helps explain what your talking about and you can get loads of answers to your problem, just a thought mind.

Words of wisdom above, the manual will save you time money and frustration. We all need to start somewhere, might be an idea to say where you are in the world you never know some kind soul might live nearby and be willing to help out for a cup of tea and a biscuit.

Hi, if your from the Philippines then your on the wrong site mate, check the email and web address of the shop your after . If your not from there then I don't think there has ever been a members card on this site. Pretty sure your looking for a dealer in the Philippines who offers discounts/ membership to riders.

Just a quick update on the FJR, through the winter it's had a bit of a spruce up, new set of exhausts new set of S/S brake lines front and rear new S/S clutch line, rebuilt the front and rear brake calipers (new seals) plus brake pads, I bought a Rear wheel hugger for it as well, didn't need it but I thought it looked the dogs. Did a full service as well, Christ the price of filters is daft on these things, fitted a front headlight protector to it as well, I thought that it might save me £600 if it protects it from a friendly rock, bought a new Chinese radiator for it from good old ebay (£150) really quite astonished how good it is compared to the original OE part which costs a staggering £600 as well plus a few other bits and bob's like fender extenders and S/S radiator protector, also fitted a new (old stock) rear MONO shock to it, again from ebay for a third of the price of a new one, taken from a French police bike which they uprate on arrival from Japan. So most of it done now just need to replace the fork seals and head stock bearings, next winter will see that sorted cos it's time to get my leg over the seat and see what's out there. A few photos to show off the shiny bit's Hope your all ready for the spring and summer madness.

Yeah I enjoyed that to, thanks mate.

HELLO BILLY WELCOME TO THE YOC.

Shouldn't worry to much about them, really as long as they have the correct "FOR ROAD USE" stamped on them you should be fine, if they are unmarked ie no stamp then that might be a problem but most testers are only concerned that the bike is safe, noise is subjective really just say they are new legal pipes and that should see you ok. Found this if it's any use? http://www.cobrausa.com/inside_cobra/tech_tips/48/removable_baffles/ but they are in the USA of course so your going to have to wait for them to arrive if your screwed without them. This might help? http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/cobra/baffles/exhausts?parameter=ppc&gclid=CMD207inxcsCFc1uGwodA8QLIA

Hi Dutch, On mine I used a 10/40 semi, seemed to run fine on that, as to brand? They are all pretty much the same cheap ones need to be changed more often I found and expensive ones like YAMALUBE are just daft. Halfords semi is a good oil for general use and cheap enough.

Yeah we've all been there, the dreaded "PING" and a "where the f**k did that go"?

Hi, Well the first thing to ask is "Do you have the manual for it"? Oil in the water is usually a blown gasket so I would start there, but almost certain that the manual will tell you what and where to look. Thinking about this if it's been sat for 3 years and not used most of the gaskets and bearings are going to be dry or crusty, your best bet is to start at the front and work your way back, do ALL the bearings check all the pipe work replace the brake and clutch fluid any water pipes need to be checked for perishing check tyre side walls for cracking, as it's sat on the same spot for ages, plus a FULL service should see you all right.