slice

I had a mate who found a mouse nest in his air box after the bike was laid up..! Just pointing out that it might be something unexpected that's causing your problem. But as Drewpy said carb and fuel are the most likely cause.

There you go..!

Spot on Drewpy, has to be the head if the piston and barrel are ok. I would suggest that you also fit some new valve seals as well just to be sure, that can lower compression and let oil into the barrel.

This is from "Road vehicles (Construction and use) Regulations 1968. Long story short here, it seems that you can replace your present speedo with a new one (digital) BUT there might be a problem with how it reads MPH..! It must read under the speed that's showing on the display by at least "2.5 mph" or 12% +or-. This is the actual blurb that refers to "speedometers" in the 1968 Act. Have fun making sense of this mate. But it might be that GPS speedos are in fact NOT legal as they only record ground speed not actual speed..! and do not take into account the rise and fall in the landscape. Section F INSTRUMENTS AND EQUIPMENT Speedometers 35.—(1) Save as provided in paragraphs (2) and (3), every motor vehicle shall be fitted with a speedometer which, if the vehicle is first used on or after 1st April 1984, shall be capable of indicating speed in both miles per hour and kilometres per hour, either simultaneously or, by the operation of a switch, separately. (2) Paragraph (1) does not apply to— (a)a vehicle having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph; (b)a vehicle which it is at all times unlawful to drive at more than 25 mph; (c)an agricultural motor vehicle which is not driven at more than 20 mph; (d)a motor cycle first used before 1st April 1984 the engine of which has a cylinder capacity not exceeding 100 cc; (e)an invalid carriage first used before 1st April 1984; (f)a works truck first used before 1st April 1984; (g)a vehicle first used before 1st October 1937; or (h)a vehicle equipped with recording equipment marked with a marking designated as an approval mark by regulation 5 of the Approval Marks Regulations and shown at item 3 in Schedule 4 to those Regulations (whether or not the vehicle is required to be equipped with that equipment) and which, as regards the visual indications given by that equipment of the speed of the vehicle, complies with the requirements relating to the said indications and installations specified in the Community Recording Equipment Regulation. (3) Instead of complying with paragraph (1) a vehicle may comply with Community Directive 75/443 or with ECE Regulation 39. Maintenance of speedometers 36.—(1) Every instrument for indicating speed fitted to a motor vehicle— (a)in compliance with the requirements of regulation 35(1) or (3); or (b)to which regulation 35(2)(h) relates and which is not, under the Community Recording Equipment Regulation, required to be equipped with the recording equipment mentioned in that paragraph, shall be kept free from any obstruction which might prevent its being easily read and shall at all material times be maintained in good working order. (2) In this regulation “all material times” means all times when the motor vehicle is in use on a road except when— (a)the vehicle is being used on a journey during which, as a result of a defect, the instrument ceased to be in good working order; or (b) as a result of a defect, the instrument has ceased to be in good working order and steps have been taken to have the vehicle equipped with all reasonable expedition, by means of repairs or replacement, with an instrument which is in good working order.

Most bearings have the size inscribed on the outer race face edge, you should be able to read the size from there..! Are these non standard wheels then? Or are they an up-grade from the original bike? If they are an up-grade what bike did they belong to originally?

Yes I knew about these but to be honest if you just grind a Philips down till the sides are flat then you get the same effect. Most of the problems folks have is due to worn tools. I have some spanners from when I was an apprentice at 16 still as good today as they were then but I have no screwdrivers from then cos they wear out..! Most screw heads are fucked when you try to take them out not when you replace them, if your careful and clean the heads out before you tackle them most of the time that is enough. J.I.S. and Philips are not the same but I'm pretty sure I can get a "new" Philips to do the same as your J.I.S.

Shit in the carb, not you shit in the carb but..! Anyway clean out the carb and fuel lines.

Yes mate they are legal but you do as you say lose the mileage display, but the mileage is displayed on the new LCD one which means you will start at zero. Not sure but as they are digital you might even be able to update the mileage on the display you'd have to check. Does mean you won't need a frigging great cable running up the length of the bike tho to operate the existing one.

Instead of using the bike speedo why not get one of those GPS speedos? something like this perhaps.

Rubber band?

Hi Chris welcome to the YOC.

Not sure what reaction you were looking for Ollie? You have done a beautiful job and most folks have been impressed especially with the welding mate. Tho to be honest with you I never really liked the external fuel gauge arrangement on any of the bikes I have owned, I think it was the AJS or some such that really put me off as it was cut twice when I parked it up. Still if you like it then that's enough. As I said you have done a sterling job over all. Just a suggestion tho, carry a couple of blanking caps or a spare bit of pipe for the fuel gauge thingy as when some dumb arse does cut it at least you can get to a garage.

Welcome in mate, good luck in your ride to John O'Groats.

Your best and I suspect only recourse would be to find an old magazine from that era and see what it says about price. It's not like there's an online list of old bike prices that I know of. Or you could phone Yamaha UK and ask them what the original price was but don't hold your breath waiting for a reply cos they are not known for their friendly customer relations unless your buying something new and expensive from them. Sorry mate that's about the best your going to get unless you find an old bloke who bought one new and remembers the price..! I looked on the net for any reviews that might be out there but they all give just the info on the bike without any suggestion on price at the original year of production, try a Yammie dealer and see if they might remember what the original new price was but after that it's best guess time I'm afraid.

You never fail to impress mate, just a lovely job, well done.

Welcome to the YOC, as Tommy said you need a host site to upload from.

HI James, welcome back to the wonderful world of biking, you do know your never going to have clean fingernails again don't you? Any questions feel free to chuck them out there a wealth of knowledge on here and some fun to.

Lovely mate, looks like someone has taken good care of it. You must be knackered now tho!

So I assume it wasn't you who hammered the shit out of that poor bloody nut holding the front sprocket on! They got no spanners where you bought this from Simon? Just cold chisels and a lump hammer engineering.

Ok just a couple of things, FOGGING Oil arrived today, great stuff Drewpy sticks like shit to a blanket! Got a Gallon of 20/40 oil (£28 from the FJ club) which I was going to swap out from my bike but I will shove the new stuff into the spare motor as that way I know it's clean and no acid or dirty gunk from my engine (as if) when I was down at the FJ club they wanted to know all about my engine and I asked if they had any spare starter motors out the back, the best EBAY price I have seen has been £49 and rising to £100+ "yep got one out the back, yours for £30! bargain I thought, just goes to show that these clubs can really help if your looking for a part or just advice on "how to" so I just need a shit load more parts and I ill have a running motor.

My missus says Cumin has a horrible taste! I'm dead!

Hi Jason welcome in mate.

Nice set of drawings mate, this guy seems to have made and excellent try at doing this. Any semi competent engineering house should be able to follow those drawings so just find a convenient one and have at it.

As above the brake lights are NOT controlled in any way by the ECU. Check your fuses, if it's the FJR then on the left under the hazard switch, take them all out and clean them then replace them and cover with your preferred water proofing gunk. Then take the brake light switch off of the front brake and check to see if it works out of the housing, if not then that's a new one of those, do the same with the foot brake switch and again if it don't work replace it, that should cure any problems with the brake light. Again as above say hello in the new members section please! Where are you in the world? someone might be near enough to offer a hand if they are near you. This is why you fill in the "about" section when you sign on to the site. Hope that helps anyway.

Nice one Tommy, you had us all holding our breath waiting to hear if you had got it or not.