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Hi John, If you go to WORKSHOP section there is a VIN Id thingy pinned at the top of the page that might help, I am in Stroud so not to far from you.

Your sister is going to get her own back you know !!!!! Just you wait to see what your Christmas present is DOG TURD and red ribbon is my guess.

Pretty bike, the slab sides are a bit much but what ever floats your boat, hope he enjoys it. Please tell him he's not a power ranger Feliks nor is he immortal. Most of the "OOP'S in the bushes" riders are those who used to ride and forget that 20 odd years have gone by and they are not as young as they used to be.

A belated WELCOME Mike

Good luck Grouch, about time something went your way, hope they throw in a manual when you pick it up !!!!!!!!!

Hi Ricky, might be an idea to say a bit more perhaps, the idea is to introduce your self not sound like your selling time share !!!! Anyway Welcome to the YOC.

Glad you have found a bike you like, take no notice of NOISE he's having a go about something someone else said on here and your not to worry about it !!! Noise BEHAVE !!!!!!!

DVLA and see if you can get the forms off the website, fill them in as best you can and send them off, some other folks on here have done it before so look back at the previous posts and see if you can find the relevant information.

Who was it on here that offered you a deal when you had it on EBAY? give them a PM and see if you can work something out. At least you will come out of it with some dignity as you can tell yourself that someone will fix it up and you won't feel like you got shit on.

There you are, Lallasro has demonstrated LEVERS at work, that should be an end to this in my opinion but I bet it's not !!!!

Well to be honest they have used new parts and that is a fair cost but if they have not fixed the problem then why should you pay for their work? Up to you really if you think it's a good deal then pay but if you don't pay they have the right to keep your bike till you reach a resolution of the problem i.e. They will not return your bike till the bill is settled or the problem resolved. They are in business after all and can ill afford to waste their time and skill. If you go to trading standards and they say you don't have a leg to stand on then your no worse off are you? but you should be quick about it or they can return to their original costs that were quoted to you when you took the bike to them, it is after all not their fault if the bike is not salvageable.

Hi Stavy, Yes anyone can convert their bike from cable to hydraulic just needs the required parts to do the job. There are kits out there that give you all the parts you need and you just remove the lever & cable and replace them with the new bits, but they are expensive, well for me they seem expensive but not sure how deep your pockets are, I'm pretty sure the kits come with instructions and a call centre number if you make a complete dog's of it. Just type hydraulic clutch kit into GOOGLE and see what floats your boat. Try this Took me about 2 minutes to find this one and there are hundreds of dealers gagging to take your money this one is £220.03 inc VAT, see expensive !!!!

Hi, Your mirror should be an easy fix, just undo the locking nut and take the whole thing off and then remove the broken stub from the inside of the bolt, you didn't say which mirror you broke off but on most bikes they are handed either right or left hand depending which one you broke. Just be aware that you need to check before you buy another one. Ebay can be a good source of bits and bob's or some swear by YAMABITS or WEMOTO, otherwise just go down to your local dealer and buy one off the shelf and they will make sure you have the proper one.

HI Rob, Welcome to the YOC.

That looks like a nice little bike, wish you well with it, winter is a great time to keep warm in the shed and get some things done.

Hi Par6, Welcome to the YOC. Your going to have lot's of happy people telling you how to fix your bike, some of the guys on here sleep with their DTs I think !!!!!!

I signed it Grouch, I don't green lane at all but would fight for your rights of access, but you must remember some folks are just determined to interfere with everything you do cos they want to have the right to tell you what to do, they are called rural committees or council parks and recreation committees or just some nosey bastard who wants to f**k you over cos they can.

Now that's a result !!! Nice one.

Hi Laura, Welcome to the YOC, good to have some young ladies on the forum, might keep the boys in line for a change.

Hi Wassie, Welcome to the YOC

Ratbob you have that the wrong way round mate, oil is THICKER when cold and thins down when it gets warm. Tho it should never become THIN per se as it is required to maintain the minimum thickness as stated on the tin ie 10/30 10/40 and so on depending on the use and type of vehicle it is intended for. The same applies to different types of fuel, diesel will require warming when cold (below 15 degrees) before it can be used in the injectors. Thick and Thin Motor oil viscosity is expressed as a number. Thicker motor oil has a higher viscosity number. Thinner motor oil has a lower number. Multiple viscosity oils carry with them a range of numbers—10W–40, for example. In this case the 10 is a representation of the motor oil's viscosity when cold and is determined from tests conducted at temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit. The W stands for Winter. The 40 represents the viscosity of the oil when tested at an engine operating temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold Weather Startup The cold weather measure of motor oil viscosity is crucial to the ongoing survival of an automobile engine during the first few seconds of extreme cold weather operation. The old saying "Slower than molasses in January" also applies to motor oil. Engine damage can occur if motor oil is too thick due to cold and is unable to flow in between engine parts during a cold weather startup. Which viscosity of oil to use depends on the weather conditions where the car is operated along with manufacturer recommendations.

Pretty sure there is a way of getting into it, it's usually on the back of the unit you will find some screws that you take out and then pull it apart, you have to remove the whole thing I would imagine from the bike to do this. Are you sure the fault is in the unit? I would look at the gear change end of the wiring first to make sure that the sensor that activates the neural light is working before I took he dials apart, just my thoughts on it you understand not saying I'm right.

Thank you Andrew I now have another use for SWMBO, just one thing tho, how much is a divorce nowadays?????

It's an "OPINION" ratbob we're all entitled to one you know, so saying people are twat's and that they are lemmings is not on mate, you can say what you like but stop telling folk what to do that's what the POLICE are for. Further to your other tirade on some of the other threads on here you seem bound and determined to be as sarcastic and nasty as you can be and to be honest it might be an idea for you to think that how you ride your bike is not perfect so stop giving advice about how these guys should ride, it's none of your business. But you are entitled to your opinion and as such give forth with your pearls of wisdom but stop calling folks names and your opinion might carry some weight.

Grouch I'm really sorry mate but if your not going to change the engine then you have to bite the bullet and bin it !!! There is only so much money that you can keep throwing at this bike before you need to say "ENOUGH" seriously you should think about getting rid of it and starting again with something else.