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Oh bad luck mate, what a bummer. No tips for you I'm afraid but most likely your universal joint or the spline in the final drive have failed as you said. still a 2nd hand one from ebay and about 2 hours should see it fixed.

Ah, 2 motorbikes and a cup of tea, pucka. You have done a smashing job there.

That is fucking amazing, I wonder if it will keep up with the FJR?

Cheapest method would be some cloth panniers, throw over the back seat type thing, your not going to want hard cases as they will look bloody awful and cost a fortune. Ebay is the best place to find some, I bought a second hand set a few years ago and they were about £30 plus P&P.

Probably best. You can see the rust then.

As long as it has a BS kite mark and has been tested by ROSPA then yes it's legal, BUT you need to be fairly sure your mates don't see you wearing it cos they will rip you a new arse hole.

While your giving DT a heart attack I will just say HI and welcome to the YOC.

Really nice tho mate, you should be well chuffed with that result.

I agree with DT about using easy start as it is a dry fuel and not to be used except to give the engine a bit of help, I only suggested it as a way of showing that the engine runs then you can sort out why it won't run all the time. His idea is the proper way my way is a bit of a cheat really but gives you an immediate "will it run or won't it" so you at least know that your not wasting time trying to fix something that is just dead. If it won't start with easy start then your looking at an electrical fault cos if you spray ES direct into the carbs and it has spark then it WILL fire.

Some nice bikes there Mc, that RD is a sweet little bike, sure yours will be just as nice mate.

As above, EASY START is your friend when it comes to a difficult engine, even really small sparks will make it fire. This stuff

Looks ok from the photos, if the pitting is only at the very top 1/4 of the bore then it should be ok, it's only if there is wear or pits below or at the rings you need to worry even then it usually can be alright as long as they are along the bore and not across it. Nice little project Mc.

ER ask any GIRL !! Not the TODGER bit of course.

Try this, Component video inputs: Make sure your cables are connected correctly at both ends according to the green/blue/red color code. If you still have problems, try a different set of cables. Component video color is carried on three separate cables. If your blue cable is bad, the picture will be yellowish or greenish. A bad red cable will cause a bluish-green picture, while bad blue and red cables will give a black and white picture. A bad green cable will cause no picture at all. By the way, if you have a bluish-green picture with a buzz in the sound, your red audio cable and red video cable have been reversed.

As above shot peen is the way to go, seals the surface after the rust bug has had a chew at it.

Hi Jayce, Welcome to the YOC. Need a bit more info really to tell you if it's an easy fault or a workshop visit, Try and describe exactly what happens and if this is how it's been since you had it or if this has only just started happening. I know you have more or less described the fault but was it gradual or did it just suddenly start doing this? What if anything have you done to the bike, service or changed the oil put new bit's on it or just generally left it alone. The more you say the easier it is to think of what the problem might be. It's also a good idea to do an intro in the New Members section just to say Hi and show your not a one hit information only guy.

If the mains are ok (which it looks like they are) it's likely that the big ends will be ok to, after all they are covered in oil internally it's just the crusty crap on top you want to get rid of.

What price are you looking for? Most folks would like to know before they bother you with any offers. If you don't want to say, then say if it's ok to PM you from the site. Plus a photo or two helps folks decide if they are interested or not.

Yer JUNKIE !!!!!

That seems to be a good idea, tho to be honest some of the ideas on here seem mad right up till you see the results. Sameals thread for instance about his rebuild and the work and effort he put in are an inspiration if you want to see what can be done with little room basic tools and LOT'S of skill. Don't write off your idea just amend it to something that you can do and your happy with.

Your other option is to fill it from the bottom up, get a large syringe from you local chemist, they do 500mil ones, connect a pipe to the bleed nipple on the brake calliper end and push the fluid up to the master cylinder. It works and you can usually save all that pumping of the brake lever, as Cynic says you only move about 6mil of fluid with the brake lever through the master cylinder, this way you just fill it with a steady flow from the syringe. Seems counter intuitive to make the fluid run up hill and all but it really does work, my FJ clutch was a bitch to do until I did this and it filled in 20 minutes with the syringe. If you look on Youtube you will find some others that have done this. Here's one guys take on it https://youtu.be/8JRzN896Uyw This guy is doing his back brake but front works just as well.

Welcome to the YOC mate, glad you could join us.

Yeah it's sad mate, all that work and now your going to have to find something to do or SWMBO will have you painting the inside of her cupboards, you could of course BUY ANOTHER ONE !!! and start again, I mean it's not like this one didn't turn out a treat is it. Then you can tell her your doing it for the money (HA HA HA !) In 40+ years I have sold loads of bikes and only 2 have made money one cos the guy paid in full then never came back (so I sold it again !!) and one cos I bought 2 for a £100 and actually used the second one for spares then sold THAT as well.

Ok At least you have something to work with, hope you get it sorted. Just a quick reminder, it's always nice if you do an INTRO in the New Members section, just so folks know your not just here for information and you would like to join in, always nice to have new folks join and contribute.

Yeah your in the eye of the storm up there in the land of kilts, there must be a video/review somewhere of what happens when you change the sprocket size, have you tried Youtube? found this tho http://r125forum.com/threads/front-sprocket.1368/ And this http://r125forum.com/threads/front-sprocket.1368/ And another one http://r125trackbike.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/improving-r125s-acceleration.html