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Meat you have entirely to much time on your hands! But that is a sweet little bike, nice one fella.

As above, a really good idea to check the frame out, the price you have quoted is a bit low for this bike, you have to wonder why, a 2008 version should be around the $7K mark not a 2013, you might be one lucky guy but if it was me I would take it to a workshop and have it checked out before you hand over the cash, ask the seller if he is willing to have it checked out, at your expense, if he's not walk no RUN away. Is a pretty bike tho.

As above, the only way to tell is rip into it and see what the problem is, sounds like a broken ring or knackered piston from your description. Check your compression if you can before you take it apart, that might give you an idea of what's going on. Good luck mate.

Hi Craig, Welcome to the YOC. Warm spring and summer days a lazy engine and a comfy seat, you'll be in heaven mate.

Hi Stevo, welcome in.

Hi Dom, if you bike is not high performance then it's possible it has solid brake discs, mine has floating on the front and solid on the rear, look at the disc on your bike, if it has little round discs then it has bobbins if not then it's a solid one, is it the same as this one ? If so it's a solid mate.

Found this on another site, explains it quite nicely. Fixed and Floating Brake Discs There are three principal types of motorcycle brake discs: fixed, fully floating & semi floating. A fixed brake disc is a one piece brake disc. That is, its brake pad contact face and wheel mounting face are all part of the same piece of metal. They are relatively cheap to produce and they perform perfectly well within certain parameters, but if they are subjected to serious heat then they are unable to dilate or expand because they are not floating. Both fully_floating_brake_discs and semi-floating_brake_discs are constructed in two parts. An aluminium centre part which is fixed to the motorcycle wheel and a stainless rotor part which the brake pads push on. When the rotor is subjected to serious heat it expands. By allowing it to float separately from the mounting face it is free to expand and shrink again at will without being constrained by its mounting. When this expansion takes place is does so in all directions at once and it will not be constrained. If you prevent this from happening in one direction (by fixing it on its mounting face) it has no choice but to warp, so floating_discs and semi-floating_discs are made in two parts to allow the discs to expand and prevent them from warping. This is mainly a high performance type brake disc. Bikes of more moderate performance can use fixed brake discs perfectly happily and you will also see that most rear brake discs are fixed. This is because they don’t get used as hard and therefore subjected to as much heat. Even so, most rear brake discs are thicker than front brake discs and this is a compromise because the cooling is not as good as the front discs. They don’t get as hot but don’t cool as well either, so the thicker material helps prevent them from warping.

Harry, just curious as I don't own one of these but does it burn the oil or does it chuck it down the road? If it burns then your CAT will be fried with all the crap going through it won't it? As Peter says if it's a known fault then your first port of call should be Audi UK and see if they can offer a solution. Best of luck mate.

Oh FFS Grouch !!! What are you like?

A really cheap way, which I have seen done but not tried, is to get a set printed on a good photo printer laminate them and literally stick them on. I know it sounds bloody awful but honest I had trouble telling them from the real thing. Good Photo ink will last for about 5 years even in direct sunlight. Oh and did I say it was CHEAP?

As above really, a lot of bikes have a seal from the gearbox shift lever, usually a push fit from the outside, take the lever off dig out the old one and replace it, if that's it then should be a half hour job. Bung a piece of kitchen towel round the gear shaft right up tight to the engine and see if that "cures" the leak, should be done obviously just after a run out and she's warmed up.

Just one other thing, as Drewpy said, if your going to replace them then use a Copper slip or something similar when you reassemble it, it will make it so much easier for you or the next owner to get the bike apart, it won't melt at less than a thousand degrees. I bought one of these for about £6 and most every bolt I take off has a dollop when I tighten it.

I used brake cleaner, it's great cos it evaporates and is easy to clean up afterwards, glad it's not just me that thinks this is a good idea, think I will do it once a year in with the service.

Now I've been riding since I was 14 and had loads of bikes but just when you think you know it all along comes something you never even thought of, I watch quite a lot of "how to" videos on youtube and particularly like a guy called Delboys garage, makes me laugh anyway, but I have never thought about why the front discs are called "floating discs" and had no idea that the floating part was an actual moving item, I'm sure some of you did but I was brought up using brake shoes and drums and just assumed that discs on a bike were the same or similar to a car DOH! If you know this good for you if you don't then it could save you having to buy new discs with just a few minutes effort and a squirt of brake cleaner. Just done the FJR this morning and believe it or not quite a few were less than optimal, so when you think you know it all and there's nothing that can catch you out look again. Watch this link if your interested https://youtu.be/1qoPqN2GBdw

You can make your own, threaded from end to end but it's better to use the right thing, go to your dealer or phone them get the right thing, the problem with cutting the end off is will it still fit and it's a half arsed job, do it right and do it once.

Been there done that, grab the shouldered part of the bolt ( biggest mole grips you can find), not the thread, turn the stud out and fit new ones, spray it with plus gas or some such penetrating oil and be patient, they will be tight but replacing them is better than trying to cut a new thread in there. They are a special bolt, head studs, you will need to get them from you local Yammie dealer should only cost about £4 each. Remember it's steel into aluminium so the stud is much harder than the head.

Yes it's a "we can't be arsed to do it any quicker so pay up or double the fine" bastards. Fight it, they HAVE to show you breaking the regulations, otherwise everyone can be shown on both sides of the bloody sign. the adjudicators for this are good people and they will listen to what you have to say, DON'T under any circumstances say "I'm not sure which side I passed on" say your sure you "waited and passed correctly" let them prove you didn't. Nuff said.

Hi Pete welcome in, Foamy will be along shortly he is the DT50 guru.

As above Barry, you paid to have it fixed so take it back. Not your fault they didn't find the fault, does sound like an ignition or wiring fault tho. I'm 63 BTW.

Simon only tells you where it last was, once it's nicked it's in bits within a couple of hours and parted out by the end of the day. 50% of stolen bikes are never found let alone tracked, a dedicated company can take on you bike, they only deal with stolen bikes and they only get 50% back as well, these guys are good at what they do, it's their living and they steal to order. If your bike is unusual or even common they have someone waiting for the parts.

Found it on YouTube, go to minute 22.56 and there it is, well done Ian finally saw you on the telly !!! https://youtu.be/YDNYXnvgbTY

Yep had the full thing on the XJ, even spoke to you and told you to sod off if you got to close, the auto start sounds fine in theory but if you forget to put the key in when you mount up you can end up going round in circles cos the head stock lock is on and if you parked it without that then it can lock on while your riding, not an experience I would want to test. My FJR does not have the Yamaha Immobiliser so no problem fitting it to my bike, the later ones have an immobiliser fitted from the factory, they are made in China !!

Good advice above Grouch, a simple "FUCK OFF" alarm would suit you fine, you don't need the full bunny anyway so a simple shouty flashy job should see you right. Cost should be about £15 for one like that.

Hi Scott, nice little bike the XJ, makes a good commuter it's light and I'm told very flickable through traffic. Welcome to the YOC.

With your record Kev you could knock a couple together out of an old bean can and a big hammer!