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This post is 2 years old mate you might not get a reply, best to start a new topic right after you say "Hi" in the new members section. just sayin!

Yep as Andrew said not important, I think you'll fine that the horn is earthed through the mounting.

Hi Jere, welcome to the YOC, just take it slow for the first few days, you'll be fine mate.

The idea of using the oil out of the bike is a sound one, never even thought of that, oil's only been in there since I serviced it about 300 miles ago but I think that's spot on. Got a trip to Portsmouth this Friday and I will swap the oil out over the weekend, Thanks Paul. Not sure about diesel tho I'll have to ask around and see what my local mechanic thinks. Drewpy mate your a star just looked up FOGGING OIL and it's just the stuff, Opie oils do it to so I'm going to order some today http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-92354-motul-fogging-oil-long-lasting-corrosion-protector.aspx That will let me stop worrying about the engine turning into a rusty boat anchor. Thanks lads.

Can't help but ask, why would it need a stronger crankshaft? It's designed to upgrade the 125 to a 170 and that's hardly a big jump in anything. If you were trying to take a 400 to a 600 then you might need that bit of extra strength but other than that I doubt you will need to worry about it. As you can see from the above comments Athena don't seem to care about customer support so this is one of those occasions where you have to take it on faith that the design team have at least made an attempt to make sure it fits and runs ok.

Ok boys and girls just a quick couple of questions. As you know I bought the spare engine for the FJR and it's just sitting in the garage minding it's own business. What I want to do is ask how can I keep the internals from turning into great rusty lumps of iron till I get round to dealing with it? I was thinking of refilling it with fresh oil, none in it at the moment, and just turning it over every few weeks to make sure there is at least the bare minimum of oil spread around the engine to stop it getting too dry inside but that's ok for most of the engine but what about the bores and seals that are above the oil line? It's not what you could call user friendly in that it weighs about as much as a small car engine and is a right bastard to roll about trying to get the oil spread about evenly. There's no chance of me buying a complete set of injectors and all the ancillary bit's and bob's to make it run so I have to figure a way of turning the thing over with enough pressure to get the oil moving, it has no starter motor either which makes it even more of a pain so anything you can suggest that does not involve me heaving it about would be great. Thanks all.

Hellooooooooooo anyone there?

Yeah have fun Tommy, stay safe mate.

Just been thinking about your problem, if when you re-attach the starter motor you leave the fixing bolts slightly loose then grab the end (starter motor) furthest away from the engine and pull it upwards slightly, about 3/16ths of an inch is about all you should need, now if what I'm thinking is right try to turn the engine over at this point, if it cranks the engine over then it's the end of the starter motor that's worn and not the internal part of the starter clutch. Remember this is just to see if it works not a proper fix, if it does work then your going to have to replace the starter motor rather than the starter clutch. It means that the end of the starter motor has worn to the point that it no longer reaches the gear inside the engine, if this does not work then it almost certainly is the starter clutch that's the problem.

HI mate welcome in.

Oh bugger! Jimmy saw it and neither of us did DOH!

Ok, If it was me I would use my air line and the oil can attachment that it came with, what your trying to do is get fresh oil into the internals of the starter clutch, so turn your compressor up to max then shove the end of the oil can into the part of the gear that you can see in the hole in the engine, SPRAY, pull it out and turn the gear a quarter turn and do it again till you have gone right round the gear, let it soak for a few minutes then do it again, then try to start it, do this half a dozen times and see if it makes any difference, Oh and DON'T use car oil use motorcycle oil, keep an eye on how much oil you put into the engine as well as it all adds up and you can easily over fill the engine if your not careful. something like this is ideal it's called a paraffin gun?

Hi John welcome in mate.

Thought I'd already asked that !!!

Where are you in the world Gregg, makes a difference, as no point in finding one in Australia if you live in Scunthorpe mate. That's why you should fill in your profile details. I found 4 on Google in about 2 minutes and at least half a dozen that might fit, your best bet is to size the exhaust gasket and phone round to see if another one might fit from another bike if all else fails. Oh yeah do you mean this one or this one? These are NOT for your bike just generic ones.

Well done on getting it running mate, you never know that might be all it needs. keep trying it and see if the cranking gets any better. If not then your going to have delve deeper into the engine, for now tho just enjoy annoying the shit out of your neighbours!

Well done mate, nothing like an engine roaring into life after hours of fettling.

Hi Mandi welcome to the YOC.

Hi Simon welcome to the YOC.

HELLO TOMMY! Might be an idea to turn off your "capslock"! As to your problem have you thought about just replacing the brake shoes/linings? This would tell you if the shoes are the problem or if it's the drum itself that is causing you grief. One other thing tho, if it has a crack in it you might find it's had it and your going to have to replace it with another one. A picture will help immensely with helping you out here, is yours the spoked wheel or the cast alloy wheel? If it's the spoked one then you can fit a new centre boss if it's the cast wheel then skimming it might do it but if it's cracked then you will just weaken it more. As I said pictures really help with something like this.

Hi and welcome to the YOC.

Yes mate, you really need to make sure there are no teeth missing first, the starter clutch on these bikes is a type of "sprag clutch" ie it spins free in one direction and locks tight in the other direction, they can wear and just slip causing the engine to refuse to turn over usually cos they are badly worn. It looks like this when it's apart and the little rollers are the ones that do all the work, that's what needs replacing if yours is fubard the thing is you can't know for sure if it's fucked till you get it out. In your Video the motor sounds ok and seems to be spinning the clutch ok but the only other thing I can think of that might cause this is deeper in the engine and not sure you want to go there yet! These clutches are pretty robust but when they go you have no choice other than to repair or replace them I'm afraid. Can you get the side panel off of the engine and look directly at the clutch? this would make it much easier to diagnose any fault you have and then you would be halfway to a solution. P.S. You don't need to purchase a mirror any mirror will do as long as you can get it in the space where the starter motor came out of, find a bit of broken mirror or even one of your wife/girlfriends compacts, if they still use that sort of thing?

Don't worry mate it will be fine in the end as Drewpy said, plus you'll have no problems with repairs once she's on it and breaks something! Found an engine mounting on the FJ once that had been glued in cos the PO had stripped the thread and obviously couldn't use a tap and die set!

Hi Pete welcome to the YOC mate.