slice

As above heat and GENTLY bending will straighten them, if you can find a BIG spring the same as you use to bend copper pipe and shove that down the end that will stop you kinking the pipe and causing more problems or if not then try a broom handle shaved down to fit inside and use the leverage from that to straighten them. Be careful use little effort cos you sure as shit can mess them right up if your to ham fisted.

No one can help you with a registration number I'm afraid, your best bet is to contact the DVLA in the UK assuming of course that's where you live (no details in your info) or the relevant department in your country of residence. Usually the VIN will tell you all about the bike like when and where it was made the model and year of manufacture, other than that your at the mercy of the government dept that deals with these things. You could contact Yamaha direct in your home country and ask them to help out with more info about the bike but they will have no data on the reg number that's strictly local stuff.

Hi Garry, welcome to the YOC.

Oh nice one mate, a few hours fettling and your gunna be out there. Fit an electronic ignition kit to it and that won't be a problem any more, carbs are going to be full of snot, of course, and the brakes are going to be crispy other than that a full service and your golden. Ride it like it is, that will piss off the perfectionists ..!

Ok mate well best of luck with it, it's to far for me to come..! Anywho cover the tank with a cloth and just wind the thing off, you might wreck it but then it's not much use now is it? Still try to put pressure on it as you turn the key and have a mate grip it and pull till the pips squeak. Just a thought tho, have you tried to undo it the other way than it should go, sounds odd but try to just keep going till it has gone 360deg with the key turned. It might work..!

This is what Drewpy means I think, the 2 arms? drop down behind the slope on the bottom of the tank filler lip, you have forced them past the tight point and they are stuck up against the inner lip, you need to press down and wind the bugger back.

Found these Grouch, cheap enough really and will stop the opportunist thief. First one is about £8 quid and the next is about £12 quid. https://www.rydestore.com/ryde-heavy-duty-motorcycle-lock-wall-ground-anchor-black.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj_LQqufj2AIVBxDTCh1f6w6zEAkYCSABEgJUtfD_BwE https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p83061?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=syfUFyOJB_dc&pcrid=142502840529&pkw=&pmt=&product=83061&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj_LQqufj2AIVBxDTCh1f6w6zEAkYEyABEgIPnvD_BwE

Hi Adam welcome to the YOC.

Hi Jazzman, well to tell the truth it's always difficult to guess how to answer this type of problem without a photo..! Makes it easier to visualise a "how to", if it's a twist on type cap then my best advice would be to get someone to turn the key for you and while they do that you grab the cap with a pair of mole grips or large stilson pliers and wind the bastard off, not a pretty solution but then at least you can get fuel into it. You can then buy a new cap if you have to. See below for my best advice on the type of grips to remove the cap with. about £7 quid between £5 and £15 quid. Where are you in the world? Cos I have a set in the garage if your close and am more than willing to help out.

OH FFS..! Grouch, try and see if (IGN Switch) will go under the seat, just a switch will do if not that breaks the connection to the battery, won't matter how hard you try the bike won't start till you flip the switch. Sounds like you need a ground anchor mate, at least then it will be bolted to the floor and they will need tools to get it away from the house. Plus another one on a wall nearby, might take you half an hour to unlock it all in the morning but at least it will be there to unlock..! Leave the broken IGN Switch in place. that will fuck with their heads even more, they can try starting it till they are blue in the face and will most likely give up when it ain't easy.

Turn the exhaust upside down, whack a large potato over the end (this is your bung) then pour HOT water and caustic soda (mixed) down the other end, leave for a day at least. DON'T do this if your exhaust is aluminium or it will eat it's way out, then empty the crud out and flush with fresh water. You might have to do this a couple of times. If it still won't move then oxy acetylene torch up the end and set it on fire then run the oxy till it all burns off (yep that's right set it on fire..!) DON'T let it get this bad again..!

Good luck Drewpy hope you get lots of support mate.

Hi Tony, well there are several reasons that a bike might be rare, first off they didn't make many second they never sold all that well and third they are just old and knackered, plenty of other reasons as well but these are the main ones really. As to value your guess is as good as anyone else's, your country and the condition it's in make all the difference as if it was only sold in low quantities then expect it to be rare but not really valuable, spares are another factor, as if you can only get them from Japan then add a zero to most any other price you can think of. One of our folks on here has a TDM so he might know more about this but don't get your hopes up that you have a 1 in a million bike mate.

And to you and yours Finnerz. Have a good one.

Fraid it is what it is, you fit non-standard pipes then you will get pops and bangs, as you have already been told it's all to do with the fueling and on overrun or deceleration you have unburnt fuel in the pipes, you could fit baffles to the pipes that would reduce the sound with more back pressure in the pipes but also reduce the noise..! Another option is to fit a power commander to your bike, others know more about this than me but as I understand it it measures the fuel - air flow more accurately than the on-board ECU and can reduce the unburnt fuel to a level that is acceptable but it comes at a cost. Found this site https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_cat/177 cost seems to be around the £250/300 mark and they might not make one for your bike so you had best have a good look. Also it would be nice if you said "Hi" in the new members section, just a small intro would be good, folks like to think your not just here for info then fuck off never to be seen again..! Just sayin!

Only thing I have seen about this is that folks are turning on the kill switch (from off position) BEFORE they turn on the ignition. On the FJR I turn the ignition on then hit the kill switch then hit the starter, so I'm suggesting you try :- Hit the kill switch first then turn on the ignition then hit the starter, might work? It does sound like vapour lock from a hot engine tho, not sure if you get the same thing with injectors as with carbs? Found this https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/vapor-lock-carburetor-vs-fuel-injection.22320/ It's for aircraft engines but the same principle applies really, well not the flying bit obviously actually if you ride like I do then maybe it does...!

HI Mohammad, welcome to the YOC. I have no idea what the colour code is for the FJ but if you call the FJ owners club they "might" help you out, the number is 01454299325, just explain what you want to do to Ernie and he will, if he knows, help you out. They are really nice guys but a bit flaky so prepare yourself for having the piss taken out of you..! http://www.fjclub.co.uk/

Hi Ranbo welcome to the YOC.

Where is it then? I know I saw a sense of humour around here somewhere but it seems to have been mislaid..! And why would it be difficult to explain to your child? some folks are just spoiling for a "crime" to complain about.

No afraid it doesn't, the engine will run while on the side stand but will not go into gear when the side stand is down. Try checking the start button is not at fault, squirt some switch cleaner inside the starter switch and work it back and forth a few times, that might be the problem, if all else fails try bridging across the terminals on the starter motor to the frame or engine to see if the starter motor will spin over. On my FJ the starter motor brushes were worn down to nubs and I needed to swap them out, buy the manual (Clymer) and that will give you a test to check the starter circuit.

As I'm now going to the WELSH ROAD RACE why not meet up there instead? they even do camping..!

Well done spotting that Drewpy, I am booked for the Saturday raceday (£85 for 2) and have persuaded the wife to come with the bribe of a hotel weekend away, got some friends who live nearby as well, so going to make it a fun weekend away. Only thing is SWMBO will NOT go on the bike so taking the car, still that means if it pisses down we will have somewhere warm to sit..! See you all there.

Hi Swinny welcome to the YOC, as above youtube is your friend plus a manual of course.

So finally saw sense and have decided on a pair of Continental road attack 3s from the FJ owners club, they supply and fit plus no charge for balance and new angled valves to make it easier for tyre pressure checks, about twice the price of the Pirelli ones but will last twice as long. SWMBO has said they are an early Xmas present..! So new fork springs for Xmas then..!

One man's pride and joy is another man's courier hack. Like Jimmy say's "you bought it, you can set fire to it, I don't care" show me the money..!