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Yeah me to, Do you want me to book my own room (2 nights) or shall I send the money off to you? By the way Finnerz thanks for all your effort mate, much appreciated. PS Tommy Kev and I are just good friends...!

That looks a nice place Finnerz, I'm for the room option tho..!

Hi John, welcome to the YOC.

Not too sure but does it have a TILT switch on the Diversion? If a bike with a tilt switch is dropped or the battery get's low the tilt switch needs to be reset before the bike can be restarted. Tho I'm not sure what year they started to use these..!

Oh bad luck mate, you KNOW we're here to help..!

Thanks Cynic that was the problem I thought it might have. Tommy I might give that a go, connect up a couple of LEDs to it and see if the bugger works.

As above plus some sort of degreaser to clean as much crap out as you can, find a piece of wire that will go down the hole and riddle it out as best you can. Your sure that it won't come out of there are you? What does it say in the manual? As an aside it always helps to say hello in the new members section, more folks will chip in if they don't think your a one hit wonder. Just sayin..!

Well I am definitely coming but as above it's a hotel for me. And yes I am a soft c--t too..! Plus I'm old.

Thanks mate, I just could not get my head around the LED thing. It's just that the front indicators are really low down on the bike and I thought that a set on the upper part of the bike might make it easier to see where the BMWs can aim.

Hi Col welcome to the YOC.

Ok folks just a quick question, I am thinking of putting a new set of rear view mirrors on the FJR, I would like to use some with the indicator built in but the ones I want to use are LCD and the ones on the bike (front fairing and rear) are bulbs, so my question is will it matter if I just bung them on and connect them or do I have to use anything else to make them work? I know it's a silly question but I am stumped as to whether it needs a controller in the circuit or not. Thanks folks.

It's for a 650 so probably not but you could check the numbers against the recommended settings, you might get lucky. As to the rad guard, anything that keeps stones and crap from covering or destroying your rad is a good thing, hold it up against the rad and see if you can make it fit, there's nothing wrong with gaffer tape and bailing wire.

If it ain't hot then it's not firing, simple things first as above plugs then HT leads then fuel.

Welcome to the YOC. Passed my test in 1968 and it was round the block and a cup of tea for the examiner, welcome back into the wonderful world of biking, watch out for BMW and AUDI drivers, as they are always saying "Do you know how much this cost..?" Then they WILL try and kill you..!

As above really, you have to be able to unbolt it if for nothing else than to grease the bearings. Usually every 6 to10 thousand miles. Diagram of generic bearing showing the various bolts and shafts that need to come off. This one starts at number7. NOT your bike but similar I bet.

Nope not that Drewpy THIS.! https://www.nevillejohnson.co.uk/dark-oak-inline-glass-staircase/

Well Finnerz it seems that if you HAVE to have a new staircase you also NEED, NEW carpet NEW paint NEW curtains NEW sodding everything..! She has arranged for 4 of the 5 bedrooms to be painted, carpet fitter to fit carpet (oh that's what he does?) plus some guy came here and TOLD me what he was going to do with MY house then moaned about it being Imperial when he only worked in Metric, that apparently was down to me..! So it seems that 8 grand is ALL it will cost for the ESSENTIAL staircase but the other "odd's and sod's" simply add "only a few extra pounds to the whole job" Her words..! Oh and just to make it plain here just the 2 of us live here and 3 cat's..! Sorry forgot to add Hall stairs and landing NEED painting as well, well why not if your already in the shit you might as well learn to swim..!

Ok I'm in, her indoors has just spend 12 grand on new fucking staircase so I think I might need a break..! YES 12K..!! That's my new FJR out the sodding window $%^&.

Usually the paint on new bikes is baked on and it's hard. So your best bet a wire brush on your drill and keep going till it's off, if it was me I would just rub it down till its flat then spray over it with a good coat of paint, Tough paint (simonize) is good Hammerite is hard wearing and there are as many opinions as there are paints, as to the best ones just buy what you can afford and leave it at that. I don't think you can "JUST" take the swing arm off and then reattach it, you usually have bearings and seals on the swing arm and they need to be properly torqued up when you reassembly them plus greased of course. Your manual should walk you through the process. Don't bother with a primer as it's only a swing arm and it never had a primer in the first place and of course the less paint you slap on the less reactions your likely to get. As for chemical paint remover with the EU regulations now in use they are worse than useless cos all the good chemicals are to dangerous for ordinary mortals to use so you will spend money for no real effect.

So what are we doing then? I personally would like somewhere with at the least food and a shower. Peak district sounds ok and the west country would be fine as well. Let's have a vote if someone will offer a few spots and we can pick the one that most folks like. We could go to the Donnigton park circuit for a run round if we go to the Peak District..!

Some people swear by silver foil and Coke, look it up on youtube it's all there.

Nice one Malleus well done for sticking with it mate.

As above, bottle brushes are your friend, go to your local pound shop and buy a set plus they usually do a pack of awful paint brushes that are only good for engine cleaning. I used their oven cleaner on my engine and it cleaned all the crap off plus it just loves grease..!

It's just BLACK..! Don't matter what they call it, Hammerite is your best bet not the spray but the tin stuff, sticks like shit to a blanket and will flow into all sorts of crevices and cracks. I used it on my centre stand and side stand and it's been on there for about 2 years and still going strong.

Don't know I'm afraid and I doubt many do to be honest but I bet you will need a new ECU at the very least. It's not usually a straight swap there's other things to consider. Electrics - engine mounts - drive chain alignment plus a shit load of other tiny little fiddly things that will make it frustrating but fun to do. Good luck..!