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Just a quick question, what additive have you put in if any? Just thinking why would your mind go to draining the tank as a reason for it not starting? If you have bunged something in like REDEX or something similar then that should not make a difference unless you tipped the whole bottle in. Just curious that's all.

When you think about it it's no surprise that bikes have vibration problems, you do after all have a great big engine bolted to a metal frame that's a sure recipe to have a vibration problem, some have tried rubber mountings on the engine bolts and others have tried a floating engine arrangement but nothing really works to remove the vibs except proper adjustment of the carbs and timing, if you go to a dealer and start a new bike the vibs are fairly small and barely noticeable thats cos it's been tuned in the factory, it's only when you have ridden it for a while 20 or so years that this can become a problem so almost certainly your vibs are due to poor tuning and wear inside the engine and your best to try to get it back to factory tolerances or sit on a cushion and wrap your hands in a layer of foam.

As Andrew says it's easy, have you ever owned a push bike? cos changing the chain on your bike will be the same as that if it has a split link.

Ok I watched it, I have no words to describe what I think of this and even less for the poor demented soul who made it, Foamy you are indeed the most strange and worrying person I have ever known !!!!

Do you mean the number 2 in this drawing? If so then I suggest you just call it the squishy rubber boot thingy ! Or just print this out and take it to your local bike shop, let them worry about what it's called.

A nice bike Mike, not my choice but if you like it "nuff said" and when the shine wears off you can always try a big Yam later.

Oh God that sounds horrible, why on earth would you make a bike that needs that much care and attention? I've had girlfriends that took less care than that!

If you ever leave it in the woods no one will be able to fine it with that colour scheme, looks very smart mate you have done your self proud.

Yes as above PLUS GAS and a butane torch, don't heat the frame if you can help it just the area around the hut and bolt, heating the frame can warp it, even just a little can make getting bolts back in a right bastard. Just look up plus gas on google it comes in spray and the old fashioned tin. Should also have added that it pays to heat the part just before you try to take it off and then give it a squirt to drive the fluid home, sort of capillary action, so as it's cooling squirt it then grab it and GENTLY wiggle it back and forth, sounds like a girl I used to know, Oh wrong forum!!!!

Don't Vance and Hines give info on what jets to use with their pipes? I thought they did. As for the popping on the overrun that usually means your putting unburnt fuel into the exhaust so your running rich. Least that's what I think anyway. Have you checked your spark? how bright is it for instance and how powerful, you might have a coil on the way out and that would leave fuel in the exhaust phase and explaine the tick over problem. As for running hot then that could be the timing is off as well so again popping on the downshift. Rebalance the carbs and check your timing that might be a cheap fix.

Unfortunately it does sound like that doesn't it. With most water cooled vehicles there is some water in the oil or oil in the water, have you found anything like that? Best to check I suppose as it will knacker the engine if you run it with a gasket blown, it might be possible that your head bolts are not as tight as they should be have you tried retorqueing the head up to the correct adjustment? A cheap fix if that's what it is otherwise your off the the shed with a gasket set and a few late nights.

Hesitate to say it but Head gasket gone perhaps? Does it only come out when it's hot or all the time?

Don't use WD40 use a penetrating oil otherwise you will be there till hell freezes over, as dt says heat - more heat and just a little bit more heat, getting the picture? Then grab it with the biggest pair of mole grips and pray it don't shear off, leave the fluid on for a good day or 2 and keep giving it a squirt every so often. Surprisingly enough if you can tighten it a tad before you loosen it that sometimes helps as well.

If you can't read the wiring diagram in the Haynes then I really doubt that you can build a loom, have you ever done this before? It's not something you want to guess at as you will be boiling batteries and blowing bulbs like mad. Best advice buy a scrapper and take the loom off and then sell the parts you don't need, or you could buy a brand new shiny loom from Yamaha I mean that would only cost about twice the price of a new bike after all. Seriously if you haven't done this before think real hard before you do. I wish you luck but like all these things if you have the time and the skill it's easy if you don't then it can soon become a nightmare. Your going to need at least all of the original connectors for the bike or nothing will connect to the bike like the CDI unit - indicators - ignition - charging circuit are just a few of the connectors that you have to have or nothing will fit.

Connect one bolt and nut, leave it loose, then connect the spring, get a mate to hold on to the bike and lever the other side over using the stand itself until you can get the second bolt through, you just have to push away from you until you can see the hole, it's easy and using the stand as a lever is the best way.

Sounds about right I would think, if I remember correctly it was only the pre unit construction engines that had seperate oil in the gearbox and engine, but you had best check online to make sure. Found this and it might help. 1> Run the engine for about one minute, and shut down. 2> Remove the dipstick and drain the oil from the oil "tank" at the drain plug located below ignition cover (left side). Replace the plug. 3> Remove the top two oil pump filter bolts, then the lower one and remove the oil filter cover. Service the filter and replace the cover. 4> Drain the crankcase at the drain plug cleverly located directly behind the frame rail on the right side, below the kick starter. (yes, you do detect sarcasm). 5> Fill with 1.1 qts oil, replace the dipstick, start and run for 1-2 minutes, shut down for at least 30 seconds, and check the level. This is for an 06 YZ450F.

Oil it that will stop it squeaking !!! (only joking please don't oil it) As above really but have you tried taking the pads out and giving them a clean? or you can just gently rough them up with some sandpaper to take the shine off. Can't remember if they are shoes or pads on your bike but either way the same principle applies. Oh and if you rough them up remember to clean them before you rebuild them as old sandpaper can leave grit behind and f**k your discs or drums up.

Welcome back, sorry about the CBT but like anything sometimes you just have to get back on the horse and try again. Don't be a stranger join in at least you can laugh at the antics on here !

As above sorry to hear that you bent the bike, we have all been there I'm afraid, equally as above and to the point of tedium if there is ANY chance that your nogging got a wallop change the lid and put a hammer through the old one, just check it out, you will be amazed what happens when you fall off, all sorts of things get knocked about.

Worse they can VOTE FFS!!!

Ok now the SAD bit, after having what can only be described as a bit of a moment earlier with this new cat and the wife who wanted to adopt it and several trips to the vet for various potions to be injected or rubbed over it, and getting to finally like the little monster it went and got itself killed on the road last night, BUGGER !!! and other words I don't want to repeat, really going to miss the little sod. I am not to put to fine a point on it sad.

Used to be 3 bike shops in my Town now only 2 as the last one went tit's up early this year, heard a story from one of the mechanics saying that a guy came in and wanted a fix on his bike (ex-ebay) cos there had been a recall on this particular model a few years previous, could not understand why the shop wanted payment for his problem, on a bike they didn't sell him, and he had to get in touch with the manufacturer himself. I mean some folks are dumb and some are just beyond description, I try to buy local but we only have general bike dealers no specific Yam dealers nearby.

Ha Ha Ha looks like his arse is up under his chin :crylaugh:And why is EDDIE the EAGLE shoving stuff in his fore skin ?????

Have you checked the diaphragms ? If they are leaking then getting it to idle will be a problem, if you find that the diaphragms are holed then you can paint then with a rubber solution to seal over the leaks, I have used in the past PLASTIDIP paint, it's flexible enough to move with the rubber and is not affected by petrol. To check take the things out and hold them up to the light, if you can see through anywhere then that's your problem. If you want to buy new then you had better be sitting down as they cost a bloody fortune, the cheapest I have found in the UK are from the FJ owners club and I think that was something in the region of £144 for the 4 follow this link http://www.fjcatalogue.com/catalog/item/7220095/7430630.htm to see them for yourself. Hope that helps if that is your problem. Other than that I have heard that if the bike sits with fuel in the carbs for a while then it tends to block the air ways inside the carb NOT the fuel channels but the air flow, the only way to clear them is to get them into a sonic bath and leave them for hours as they are really difficult to clean, from those that know it has been known to have to actually ditch the carbs altogether as they can be impossible to clean. Sorry about that but them's the facts that I know, if you read the back issues of the FJ owners club magazine you can read all about it yourself. Just had another thought on this and as it's the number 4 carb then it might just be that one that's blocked inside, especially if it was on the side stand for a long time, number 4 carb would be the lowest due to the lean of the bike, just a thought really might help you or might not.

Hi, It's usual to do an INTRO in the new members section BEFORE you have a "how do I fix my bike?" question. just so we know your not a one hit wonder, we get a lot of those. So if you would be so kind to nip over there and post a hello we would be much obliged. Welcome to the YOC