Teflon-Mike

THAT unfortunately isn't going to happen. 1am this morning, I loked out the window while waiting for the kettle to boil and thought, "The cover's the wrong colour?" I was looking at a 'space' and seeing the pink cover over my other half's bike! STOLEN Registration: NUY640P Taken in Nuneaton, Warwickshire, United Kingdom. FAIRLY distinctive machine! With many unique and identifiable features, if ANY-ONE knows of its whereabouts, please contact Warwickshire Police

Personaly I'm a bit lost. 'Any-one done the above'... and above is the words 'inlet manifold'? Is there a picture missing? What's the question?

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Looks like mine ( ) tubular swing-arm, mon-shock, 1978 DT175MX, only has later '79 on sculpted side panels. MX suffix was to denote the 'mono-cross' rear suspension; US may have retained earlier suffix; or could be just admin in the licence office. 78 & 79 models differ from later mono-shock 175's; most obviousely they have a tubular swing arm, rather than the later box section one. The air-box and oil reservoir are also different; and on opposite sides to later bikes. Battery-Box/Air-Box was moved from the right hand side on the 78/79 models to the Left side, oil reservoir the opposite way. Early 78 models had 'flat' side panels, without the sculpting yours has. Behind LH Side-Panel - space where I dont actually HAVE an oil reservior! During tear-down; air-box on RHSide Freshly painted the 'flat' side-panels Starting to come together again!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

I got the bike fired up yesterday afternoon, after much swearing; but couldn't get anything out of the lighting coils, or at least I don't think so... didn't get chance to go through all perms before bike died and my leg was to knackered to try starting it again! & after much muggering with points though I'd JUST have a look inside the 125E engine, and LO! CDI back-plate... so got some messing to do! Right, Decals: There are many on e-bay;' just about every design variation of either US or Euro design, and colour. But the 'box' design for a '78 model is particularly 'rare'. Found ONE, but for white or blue bike, with red in-fill in the seat end segment. But is a bit pricey at £50. And I'm 'fussy' I want something that looks 'right' for the yellow bike I have. If you look at the red & black Super-Dreams I did this year on the spot-the-difference thread; Decals on those bikes are non-standard. There are virtually no decal kits for Super-Dream 125's so I ended up getting a chap to make some! Had choice of what to go for, so instead of the 'correct' livery for an early bike as both those are, did a variation o the chevron used on middle era models, that weren't badged Super-Dream and adapted it a bit to suit! Process starts with taking a rubbing on tracing paper to get a template of the original stickers....... THIS is somewhat tricky on the DT where I had none to start with. HENCE picture with bits of paper cut out and celotaped to the bodywork, before final prep and painting! Basically, photographed the bike; nicked whatever pics I could off the web, did a rough outline rubbing of the tank, actually scanned one of the side panels, then used them to make an outline template in a photo-editor..... which I then pasted and sized photos of variouse decals over to get a rough, then tidied up to look how I wanted... then I printed it on bits of paper.... stuck them together with celotape..... cut them out and stuck them on the bike! Flatted them to the tank and panels, and then went back and 'tweeked' my patern to get them to 'work'! Ie got 'crafty' Not yet got back to the chap that made my Super-Dream Decals, but hoping that once I have a set of templates and some art work for him; he'll use that to lazer some vynal I can apply to the finished paint and then laquer in, for not TOO much money... but I wont know until I get round to asking him.... if not few other folk make to order.... just a matter of how much they'll charge, and what they want by way of art-work and patterns.

Well, the covers of my AT2 twinshock motor DO NOT FIT the MX engine Mag cover, bolt pattern is out by about 45 Degrees and even then they dont all line up. Sproket cover only goes on with one bolt, other hands in free space.... there is a tapped hole vaguely in the vacinity, but its not in line with the cover hole.

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Only as an admission of fallibility...... and as the XT500 stood, Darwin was getting FAR too much credit.......

Mo, if he'd mistaken it for an XT500, wouldn't be after new kick-start lever; he'd want a new ankle.... maybe a leg!

Yes, you would have a hidden gear not shown on the shift pattern on the mag cover Curiousely... yes.... Not REALLY, ... but... got not a lot better to do while waiting for big box of parts from Yambits.... and I DO want to have a look at the genny on the 125 'E' motor, see whether there's any clues in there as to why my 175MX has points.... so MY just try it.... HOWEVER....... ONE why is your black-plastic mag-cover painted? TWO what with? THREE why is petroil getting on to it in the first place? Whatever cover you have; petrol leak; weaping carb; missing or misrouted overflow or breather pipe; needs sorting! Whether you strip plastic cover back; they can come up quite nice, scrubbed with scouring pad (green side of washing up sponge!) T-Cut to rid of worst 'matting' then Back to Blacked....OR repaint.... as stripping, but after T-Cut dont apply B2B, use propper plastic primer to get paint adherance and then decent automotiove paint to colour of choice; or replace with earlier alli casing, which is laquered, and will still stain and look horrible if you don't sort source of fuel leak! (Which would also improve fuel consumption, and possibly engine performance!) {As OldGit; who offered similar advice as I was typing!)

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

What's 75 thou of an inch in mm? just under 2mm.... could it mean seven and a half thou?

Post Temporarily Removed - I dont feel like 'Sharing' with the world at the moment!

Right? The 'hole' I presume the res should go is on the left? Under exhaust. If I got one that mounted on the right, presumeably I would have to swap out the air box, battery box and took box assembly? What would be the advantage? But good heads up, is tank is swapped on later models! One I didn't 'win' might not have fitted! {Haynes manual is on shopping list, but waiting for Yambits to get back to me about some of the bits on it, berfore placing order!) Only markings I can see on outside of carb body are: "Mikuni - Japan" next to choke knob; then on other side on boss just above auto-lube nipple; "2H5" and onder "00"

Engine's 78 MX points ignition; it was running pre-mix when I got it. TBH I Haven't checked behind cover to see if lube pump is even there. 2T res isn't. ... would prefer to run the pump, but 'for now' it's not a priority... it was 'running' which for the moment is 'good enough'; need to sort suspension, steering & brakes before I do anything! Tearing it down, there is an odd mix of work 'done' to it. Some stuff is very neat, very contientiouse, like it was prepped for enduro, cables neatly cable tied, bullet connectors chopped & solder spliced, that sort of thing you would do for 'reliability'... then there is shear botchery, twisted wires & insulation tape, oversize nuts uised as spacers over stripped threads, etc..... suggestion being, at some point in its life, bike was much loved, and well cared for by some-one who had some pretty good ideas about how to do 'stuff', but later fell into the hands of your average field-bike bother! IF auto-Lube was removed by the chap that knew what he was about; might already be upjetted for pre-mix. If simply dumped by bodgers later, probably not! Hence interested to know what ought to be in the emulsion tube and idle jet, and what, other folk running petroil, use..... If the pump is there, when I have a look, and if it pumps, I'm tempted to jury rig an old battery acid bottle or something as 2T res 'for now', (just 'lost' res on e-bay, that went far too high for my pocket! But only one I have spotted to come up in the last eight months or so) If I cant run the pump, then down to pre-mix until I can sort it out; and if I can use a 'tried and trusted' formula for pre-mix ratio and jetting, so much the better..... idea of starting from scratch with a box of jets, three or four spark plugs, and a bunch of pop bottles with a measured litre of petrol & oil at ratio's from 30:1 down to 50:1, running the thing up, doing a plug chop, swapping a jet, trying again, then draining tank, swapping fuel, trying again, adjusting timing between runs etc..... Hmmmm lots of 'fun' to be had.... but I'd rather not, if I don't have to! Ta for advice anyway.

Can any one suggest what the jetting ought to be if running pre-mix? + Pre-Mix ratio?