DJW997

I had an issue with my bike (XT 125 R - carbourated) that after a long ride the tickover would stay up high, and ofc since you'll have a centrifugal clutch it will start to engage at the high engine speed. Lean fuel mix can cause the engine to tick-over faster. I just richened out the mixture slightly and I've not had any problems since. But yes it does make sense to start with the simple stuff first, so check the throttle cable & choke I suppose.

Very interesting idea! I might try the vacuum cleaner method first, as I do not have a spare bleed nipple for your back bleeding method, but failing this, I will use your method. Thanks for your input!

I don't have a syringe unfortunately I did come across an idea on YouTube where someone rigged up their household vacuum cleaner to their bleeding jar to suck the fluid through. Might try this, but I don't want good old Henry sucking up any brake fluid!

Might try this tonight! Thanks for the input.

How do you mean 'prime the master cylinder'? I don't have a bleed nipple on it if that's what you mean so I can't bleed it. I can only bleed from the calliper which I've tried several times and had no luck.

It is held together by 2 bolts, one dedicated and one that doubles as a mounting bolt. The (rubber) seal for the little 'channel' looked fine & looks to be seated nicely as well. I wiped it with a paper towel and dabbed a little brake fluid around it in hope it would seal nicely again. A slight squeeze of the brake lever does make some fluid come through the one side of the calliper yet it won't go through to the bleed nipple on the other side. I have sprayed some brake cleaner through the passages and cleaned the bleed valve and still nothing. Really struggling to think what could be stopping it since it doesn't leak from anywhere either.

Hi all, I'm having some trouble with my front brake and could really use some help. All was working fine until I decided to open up the front calliper to examine as it was absolutely caked in brake dust, and I planned to swap out the pads anyway so. It is one of those callipers which splits down the middle and has a 'channel' where fluid can pass from one side to the other ( has a piston either side ). Upon opening the calliper a little fluid seeped out through this channel. This is whats caused my problem I guess. I put the calliper back together etc. And I now have no pressure what so ever at the brake lever. The reservoir is full. Tried bleeding it but no fluid comes out from the bleed nipple at the calliper. So I'm pretty stumped. I've tried bleeding a few times. Sat there on the bike for at least 10 minutes just pumping the lever incase theres a big air bubble in the lines or anything. (using a one man bleeding kit). What should I do? Thanks for taking the time to read this. -DJ

Hi, i'd suggest your fuel mixture might be off or something. Have a look at the plug and see what colour it is. Hope this helps.

Hi all, been having some problems with a 'flat spot' on my bike for a while now and it's really starting to annoy me. The bike is a Yam XT 125 R carbourated 4 stroke, ~4500 miles on the clock. The bike runs pretty much fine, has plenty of power, can reach 60mph no problem. Just when the engine is warm, ticking over steadily about 1500rpm (as recommended), and I'm at some traffic lights for example. If I leave the engine ticking over for any more than about 10 seconds and I apply ANY amount of throttle, the engine 'bogs' down a little, sounds like its going to stall, then picks up again. I've replaced the plug, checked spark (was blue when plug was new, gone yellowish now), cleaned air filter, made adjustments to air/fuel screw on carb, replaced the carb, no air leaks in the snorkle or anything, oil changed about 600 miles ago. I always thought it would be an air/fuel mixture problem but after having a new carb and still the same problem? One thing worth noting actually is that I didn't have this bogging issue when I'd just replaced the carb. I went for a long ride, and notice the idle was around 2300rpm (choke was definitely off)as apposed to the 1900rpm the bike ticked over when warm but before a long ride. After adjusting the idle speed down to 1500 and richening the mixture screw a quarter turn (i guessed high idle was due to lean running). And i got the bogging back. The only thing left that I can think of is valves.. but for a 4,500 mile bike is it really likely to be valves out of adjustment? I can take a video and post a link here if the description is a bit vague. Any input greatly appreciated! Thanks

Theres a shop on eBay UK selling road legal GPR slip on's for £240

I'd just replace the carb. I got a used one for my XT for £50 off eBay and it runs good Just trying to get the fuel mix right.

The idle adjustment screw is on the left side of the carb. Kind of awkward to get at though

Funily enough I was wondering this to myself the other day! I also have a XT 125 and my friend has a YBR. I can't seem to get the air/fuel mixture right on my carb so my friend jokingly suggested converting to electronic fuel injection If your XT runs fine as it is though, I wouldn't think fuel injection would offer you any benefits other than not needing to apply the choke when starting from cold, and depending on your air/fuel mixture, it would use petrol more efficiently (if your mix happened to be slightly rich for whatever reason) and save you a bit of money on fuel

Ok then - I'll try the jump pack, if that fails i'll get hold of a car battery. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.

Ok - I have a jump-pack sitting around somewhere, I think it might be dead though. Would a standard 12v car battery charger be any good? If it happens again, i'll give that a try.

That beast of a 125 hehe. That is actually a very good point, I forgot to mention this on the opening post, when I was holding the starter button, the battery bar would flash up on the display. But I checked the bike's battery level display, and it showed about 60-75%. I also tested it with a multi-meter just the other week and it looked ok. Was 12.38v or something like that, which I think is ok, but I did stick it on the charger for a couple of hours anyway. I'll measure the battery again tommorow. So the jamming of the engine when trying to use the kick start could be the starter not disengaging after trying to crank the engine you think?

Hi all - just having a problem with my xt125. The bike normaly starts right up with no problems, was using it the day before yesterday and it started and ran fine. But today i tried to start it on its side stand and the starter motor just 'clicked', as if the engine was seized. I tried pushing on the kick-start with my hand, and the engine would still not turn over. (The bike was in neutral - just to rule that out). I got the bike off its side stand and moved it back and forth, eventually it fired right up. This has happened to me once before, earlier this week when went to take the bike for its MOT. I've never come accross this kind of problem before. So I was wondering if anyone might know what it is? My only guesses are that perhaps the bike 'slipped' into gear slightly? Though I leave it in neutral when I turn it off. If that is even possible - usually if the bike is in gear, the starter motor won't even try to engage unless the clutch is pulled in as a safety feature. Or maybe because the bike was left out in the rain yesterday? (it was tipping it down all day long.) Any input would be appreciated, thanks.