Emzed

Hi again folks, I just thought I'd update you on the progress of the little Yam Thanks go to Chris66, for info on forks, now sorted and fitted with new seals :-) By the way, I must say I found it strange that you gave the size of the bi-hexagon damper tube top, in "imperial" (ie. 5/8") when the bike is Japanese and mainly metric sizing, but I did manage to get them out with a length of 8mm studding and some 13mm nuts. they were a bit sloppy and would have been better with 14mm. But as I'm not planning on doing them again anytime soon I'm quite chuffed that the job is now done Thanks too to Paul (O.G.O.A.B.) for his invaluable input regarding the re-soldering of the starter switch, it works fine now mate I've put a couple of pics in the "Garage" of the remnants of the fork seals, just for a laugh. As they were fitted in the factory in the early 80's I think they have done good service I don't know if I've done the right or wrong thing posting the pics there but it was the easiest way as I can't be bothered with buckets or flickers Ciao4now Em

You could try swapping the coils to see if it sparks the same plug/s If it doesn't the it's the coil that's faulty, if it DOES then it's the CDI Ciao Em

Thanks for the multifareous welcomes peeps, all good clean stuff With luck and a fair bit of help from you guys (& gals), I'll be mobile soon I'm sure we'll all get along just fine. After the SR is up an struttin its stuff, it's Duke's turn to suffer the ravages of a re-build Specialist attention needed there I'm afraid mighty costly too So little Yam will have to earn his keep and provide daily transport in all weathers, such a shame after I've made it look quite smart after being trashed within an inch (or should that be millimetre ?) of its life. Still it's almost restored to its former glory now. Just a lick o paint and a few minor "glitches" to sort Play nicely now Em

Cheers guys I was going to go with the brush handle idea as it would lessen the possibility of terminal damage to the damper tube {I used to use one for drawing the fork stanchions into Beeza yokes [the top yoke has a taper], but I stopped doing that when I smashed myself in the teeth when the "threads" let go ) ouch } But as Chris has now informed us that the damper tube has a hexagon inside I think I'll have a go with a length of 8mm studding which I have lying around somewhere. I'll let you all know how I get on. Ciao4now Em

I'll forgive your lack of respect for the greatest 2 stroke ever (MZ) [RIP Walter] CZ's never quite made a bike that worked :-( , something to do with building a bike DOWN to a price rather than building one to a "specification" and then trading it for what it would fetch in foreign currency. If I ever get a bike back on the road I'll be back at Squires, (I used to go to the ORIGINAL one in the 60's) I was there last year a couple of times but I don't get the same buzz out of the place when its full of plastic :-( Em

I've been nodding/waving for 40 odd years (yea some of them VERY odd) I have had mixed responses I always get a wave back from fellow Morris Minor drivers though Em

Hya folks, I've been riding and tinkering with bikes ,scooters and cars since 1964. I've already had some excellent advice from the "workshop" forum but have ommited to make my formal introduction through this section. So I'll APOLOGISE to everyone for my bad manners and hope you'll forgive my a***e about face intro. Many thanks to Paul (O.G.O.A.B.) for his "sage advice" regarding my starter switch troubles, (still working on that one, domestic duties intervened) I hope to be a regular visitor/contributor to the forums and if I can help in any way I will. Modern bike electrics sometimes baffle me my Beeza's only had 6 wires and I regularly made up new wiring for them and the Velo's (they were complicated Miller lighting sets with 8 or 10) I've had great fun browsing the forums and previous threads and I look forward to many more hours of happy banter this winter, cos I'm hoping to be out and about soon, if I ever get this SR on the road Ciao4now Em

Hi guys n gals, its that pesky Emzed again I'm having trouble getting the "allen" screws out of the fork bottoms The screw is just going round and round and round, with no sign of un-tightning. The damper tube is just spinning in the leg. Is there a "Special Yamaha" tool to hold this damper tube whilst unscrewing the allen bolt ? Hope someone has a clue, cos I hav'nt and I'm fast running out of patience with this bike :-( (come back MZ's all is forgiven) Em

A bike is a bike is a bike They're all very nice when they're working Enjoy it mate, ride the wheels off it, then ride it some more Em

Just as a matter of interest, when did you last change the oil ? Em

He'll have a big problem there Pepper, your advice would be sound for a chain driven bike but from memory, I believe the Virago is SHAFT driven I think you've already done what you can Trevor with the bigger tyre Maybe a different set of Dif gears is available but its my guess your stuck with what you've got :-( Em By the way Trevor, an introduction would be polite I know, I should talk

Hi Nick, I've put some photos of the hand guards on "MY" Garage with the SR photos. I don't know if they are what you are looking for, or whether or not they might fit ?? The holes are 6mm, the holes are 40mm (approx) from the front of the "slotted" section and that in turn has a 17mm gap. If you, or anyone else, can determine whether they might fit, then you can have them for a fiver + the cost of postage to you. They are not pristine, as can be seen from the photos but they are servicable. Let me know. Ciao Em

Hi Nick, I have a pair of black after-market plastic ones which were on an old TS 250 MZ. If you don't find any new ones I could post a picture of them on here if I knew where they were and how I'll keep an eye on the topic. Ciao Em

Thanks Paul, I'll be tackling it again later today (Saturday) so I'll keep you posted I'm also about to start wrestling with changing the fork oil seals :-( I may need help with that too ! Ciao4now Em

Cheers Oldy, that's all I can see too :-( I put the re-soldered switch onto the bike and got no response from the button ?? but as I was moving the switch and wires about (thinking it may need earthing to the bars) the motor started turning over !! Then it went DEAD and when I checked the mini blade 20 amp fuse (previous owner mod) it had blown. However, the BROWN wire which has been added by A.N. other must be the other terminal wire ? which I think should be RED & WHITE, as this is the colour of the starter solenoid wire ? and it would need to make a circuit with this to turn the motor over ? As far as I can see, the BLUE/BLACK wire is for a "cut-out switch" possibly activated by the side stand ? and also coupled to the clutch lever for starting in gear ? (these switches are not on the bike) but it seems to make sense to me that the starter would be "isolated" if the sidestand was down ? Only thing I can't figure, is where this RED/WHITE wire goes from the starter switch ?? Any suggestions ? As you may have gathered by now, I'm not very "electrically" minded so feel free to treat me as a complete "numpty" and spell out anything which may seem obvious to an experienced tinkerer. Many thanks for your input so far. Ciao Em

Thanks for the link "Oldy". But I'm afraid it's no more than I already have :-( I've printed the diagram poster size but its so distorted that I can't read what the wire colours are in the little boxes above the terminals in the starter part of the diagram. I know the colours are shown there, but they are just too blurred to make them out :-( I think I'll just go ahead and solder the wires where I "think" they should go and see what happens. I'll post an update when I have a result either way. Ciao4now Em

Hi again peeps, I've been a "fix it yourself" kinda guy since 1964. I've had a variety of bikes from British to Japanese, with German and Italian in the mix for good measure. I must say I have found this forum MOST HELPFUL I have been trying to re-solder the wires onto the contact plate inside the starter switch. Two of the wires are still attached but I cannot see the colours on the blown up copy of the excellent colour diagram (found through this forum thanks ) Does anyone know which colour wires go to which terminals ? There are 4 wires connected to 2 terminals. The terminal nearest the actual button has a Blue/Black on the bottom and a Brown on the top ( looking into the switch from the top ) There is a Blue/White wire ( original) which has come adrift and a brown wire which has been added by a previous owner/bodger which is floating about loose ! Does anyone know which wires go to which ? My best guess would be that the Blue/White goes to the other "bottom" terminal and that there should be another Brown on the empty one This is all I now need to fix hopefully to resurect the little beast after wrestling with quite a few other mechanical probs. I've posted some photos of its progress over the last few months, in the "Garage" section for reference purposes, and have now found out that it is a 250 T ? (I hope ?) Any help or pointers towards a solution would be most gratefully received. Ciao4now Em

Thanks guys I knew there was something I'd forgotten Frame number.....3Y6103865 Engine number....3Y6103865 The swinging arm spindle is seized into the rear of the crankcases, which is why I had to sandblast the motor in the frame By the way root, the "Motorcyclepro" link lists the seals as 33mm ! The other site seems to require a part number but as I'm not certain which model I have yet, its a bit of a "dead end" at the moment. But thanks anyway for the time and trouble you've gone to to provide the links My vernier says 32mm + or - .02mm ? its certainly not 1mm out I'm sure its reading correctly (its digital) and I measured the stanchion between the yokes, where there is almost no possibility of any wear taking place, so what do you think ? Have I got an "oddball" ? The forks seem to be original fittment, they are a "snug fit" in the yokes so I'm fairly sure they were on it when it left the factory. Ciao4now Em

Hya folks, another query for the guru's My 1982 (Import 1st registered in UK 1988) is in need of new fork seals. Problem is, I cant find the sizes in any of the parts manuals which I have ? Does anyone have the sizes ? If not, where I could find out ? I have had the vernier caliper on the stanchion and as far as I can be, I'm sure they measure 32mm. I have seen various seals for sale on Ebay but none of this size ! 33mm,42mm & some with no sizes listed at all ! just a listing for all SR's 1980 to 1994 ? Has anyone got a definitive answer ? Photos of the bike are on the "Garage" section of this site if that may be of any help ? By the way, can anyone tell me, from looking at the photos, which "model" I have acquired ? Many thanks for the info already provided. Ciao4now Em

Many thanks to both TONE & root. I'll let you all know how things go and hopefully upload some pics, of before, during and after Ciao4now Em

Hi guys an gals, I'm a newbie to this forum. I have just finished a quick re-furb on a 250 SR and I need some info regarding the oil circulation check. The PDF manual I got through Ebay from Spain, says there is a screw at the bottom of the left of the cylinder. No such screw exists on my engine ! ?? There is however a "hexagon headed/cross point drive" screw/bolt", at the rear of the cylinder head on the right ! Is this the other "bleed" screw ? The original screw which was in the oil filter cover had the same type of head. (I have replaced this particular screw with a stainless button allen screw) Can anyone shed any light on my query ? I hope so Ciao4now