Emzed

Hi there everybody peeps Many sincere and abject apologies for my lengthy absence I've managed to get some time to myself on a borrowed PC as my "all singing, all dancing" Dell is still silently recalcitrant. Enough of the excuses My SR 250 is finally on the road and I have done about a 1000 miles relatively trouble free On the day I took it it for the test (1st Sept) the chain "jumped" the sprocket and I had to enlist the services of a mate to get it back on as I only have a sidestand fitted. (didn't think it was that slack) Anyway it sailed through MOT with flying colours, (red oxide primer actually) but the first serious ride out I lost the rear light lens I was fortunately at the home of another good mate who produced a trailer board lens which was "cobbled" on with the aid of good old gaffer tape. (still attached by the way as I've not got a replacement yet) On the first Rally weekend (3-5 Sept) I got to 2 rallies, (Wobbly Goolies and Ure Welcome Back) doing around 300 miles over the weekend without trouble. (Not strictly true, I put 10 quids worth of diesel in the tank just outside York on the way home, but the trusty little Yam got me to Malton where I stopped and it wouldn't start again {surprise } so draining the tank and carb and refilling with PETROL got things back to normal) Anybody else had a DEISEL SR ? I've had to revert to standard gearing as the 40 tooth rear which was on it when I got it got too "hooked" for safe use. Having had the opportunity to try 2 sets of sprockets, I I think I'll be replacing the rear with a 42 (the standard rear is 45) as the 40 was over-geared and present gearing seams under-geared The recent sharp frost has killed the battery (which wasn't new) so I'll be saving up for a GEL battery. Expensive but a worthwhile investment in my opinion. I do have an issue with the headlight however, it has the "original import" lens unit fitted and the main beam seems to "vanish" and I'm resorting to using the "dip" beam in a raised position to be able to see at night on unlit roads Has anyone else encountered this ? But all things considered, I'm quite chuffed with the bike overall and look forward to many more miles and smiles Sorry again for the long delay with the progress report. Ciao4now Em PS nearly forgot the gearbox trouble was the gearchange shaft wasn't in engagement by about 2mm

I've put my quid's worth in Also linked it to F-book :-) Will post update of SR "saga" in a while, still "wrestling" with Dell laptop :-( Ciao4now Em

Thanks Paul, I'll ragg it apart later today and let you know what I find. Ciao Em

Cheers Blacky, yeah the stick bounces back just fine mate, the return spring might be a little on the "weak" side but as I've no experience to compare it with I couldn't be certain . Like I said it finds 1st and neutral no probs just wont select owt else I am assuming the shift pattern is 1 down and 4 up ? because after neutral the stick just goes a Looong way but does nothing It doesn't even feel like its "trying" to select a gear, which makes me think the selectors might be jammed on the shaft Thanks for the input though, all suggestions gratefully received. Em

Of course you could always invest in a good mask, which is light enough to see your work-piece, then goes instantly dark as you strike the arc I've seen them at Rufforth autojumble for about 40 quid but Ebay may turn 1 up for less. Remember folks, you only have 1 pair of eyes, and from memory I can't remember EVER meeting a blind biker Lose your sight and you lose your ride Be careful, be safe. If you don't have TFJ (tool for Job) then leave it to a pro Em

Cheers drewpy, I've tried all those kinda things, the clutch works just fine engages and dis-engages, also "slips" whilst in gear, if you know what I mean ? (getting it to partially grip whilst turning back wheel) Besides which, I can get 1st and neutral with or without the engine running I have considered taking out the "gear detent" bolt from under the selector drum, but I'm not sure if that will do any good If I could get the engine out of the frame I'd have had it in bits by now Just running out of ideas. Em

OK, smart arse Maybe I should have been a bit more specific THE CARDBOARD FROM A CIGARETTE PACKET, which was about 15 thou (Park Drive/Senior Service etc.) Which should give a large enough gap to allow a spark to be generated, THERE IS NO RELIABLE SUBSTITUTE FOR THE MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED SETTINGS, however as a "get you home" bodge, the aforementioned method will "usually" suffice Em By the way, shouldn't this be in the "Workshop" forum

Well I've tried to rock it back and forth with the engine off but can still only select 1st and neutral Maybe I knocked something out of place when I had the bike on its side "hammering F**K" out of the swinging arm pin ?? Any ideas guys ?? I'm getting desperate and really Pi**ed off now Em

You should only use a Rizla for setting the "breaking" of the points !! Preferably a "blue" rizla paper as they are the thinest Set the "gap" to the recommended setting with feeler gauges. (the "old school" trick here was to use a "cigarette packet" to set the gap, same with the spark plug) Good luck Em

Cheers mate, I'll try that as soon as it stops F****ing rainin It's a bit difficult at the moment as the bike is outside, I cant get it into the workshop cos that's full of junk & 2 Ducati 750's (also needing TLC) Other prob is lack of centre stand meaning I have to dig out the bike jack again (which I've thoughtfully buried in the shed ) I too was hoping it might be just "lazy" or inactive selectors, I'll post again as soon as I have something to report. Ciao Em

Hi again folks, after long and sometimes "painful" hours getting this little Yam ready for the road, I booked it in for an M.O.T. this afternoon. Having only had the bike in first gear to ride it round the garden, imagine my dismay to find, that as I set off from my drive on the way to the test station, (in the pouring rain naturally) I could only select first gear !! OK, I know, I should have tried selecting ALL the gears before this but I had no reason to suspect a dodgy gearbox as the previous owner had regailed me with tales of derring do and trips from Lowestoft to Arcnamurnum? point ! & Lands End & John o Groats ! He also used it every day for work, so I just expected it to work fine Does anyone have any suggestions ? Please bear in mind that the engine is "welded" into the frame (swinging arm bolt seized) so I cant take the motor out to split the cases Any "sensible" suggestions would be most gratefully received. Ciao Em

Spray it, with black Hammerite SMOOTH Em

Welcome I'm a relative "newbie" here too But I've been doin it since 1964 I'm sure you'll find some kindred spirits on here Hope you have miles of smiles Em

Cheers Drewpy, according to that list, I have a 1980 SR 250 G But mine is a "declared manufactured 1982" model, first registered in the UK 1988 Any further info would be appreciated Em

New carbon brushes in the starter are "probably" all it needs, but you will see how bad the commutator is when you take it off. Sometimes a "dead" segment can be the cause, but more often than not it's the brushes. Good luck Em

Maybe, maybe not, but it may have the wrong jets in OR... the pilot jet may be blocked causing it to run weak Although if that's the case, it should be hard to start and require some throttle to get it to fire. Try stripping the carb and cleaning out the float bowl and the jets. But do check ALL the connections to the engine especially the the hose on the cylinder head. If this is "perished" after standing a long time it could be drawing air in there. A quick cure would be to wrap it with "self amalgamating" rubber tape, you can buy this for a few quid from good hardware shops. It warms up as you stretch it and sticks to itself (or do what I did and "blag" some from a telephone engineer, they use it to wrap wiring to keep out damp, and often have a bit left on a roll ) As for the foam,if your skint and can't afford one you could cut up a car washing sponge as a temporary fix. Dont get one with cells which are too "tight" a sharp pair of scissors will do the job You could probably get away with some "self tapping" screws to hold the cover on till you find the right ones, dont FORCE them in try some which "just" grip enough then you wont do too much damage to the original threads for when you find the right ones Maybe someone on here knows what screws from something else might fit Best of luck Em

Sounds like a classic case of "weak" mixture to me Are you sure that there are no air leaks at the inlet or the rear of the carb where it meets filter ? Also, does it have an air filter ? It may be an "empty chamber" Em

I'm a "svelt" 10 1/2 stone So a 750 goes like split sh*t wi me on it Or is it the way I ride Em

I've just been to the site for VIN decoding. I get a message saying please ensure 17 digits My VIN is only 9 (including 1 letter) I've only recently got the bike and have only got the V5 back from Swansea a couple of weeks ago Can anyone shed any light on this anomaly ? Ciao Em

Priorities yong man ........ PRIORITIES !!! ? Em

Is that the place in Barnsley ? I've heard they are very good Last I heard, they have a lady there called Renata ? who is VERY helpful Em

Cheers Mike, sorry too, for the belated thanks. I've been busy sortin "Little" Yam I have now got it sorted (I hope) (havin had to re-solder the other switch (horn button and indicators [which are not fitted] cos it was a constant BlEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEp when I turned on the ignition switch) Anyhow, all seems tickety-boo at the mo :-) Just fork oil to add when my pension goes in the bank and its off for the MOT :-) Ciao4now Em

I was gonna say that but I didn't think I could getr away with such blatant sarcasm Em

I prefer the Duke :-) But then I would say that wouldn't I They're all nice bikes though, just a little on the pricey side for me :-( Em