OllieB

Good question! I was wondering about the XS650 ones also. NOS prices for a replacement are usually pretty high.

Mervin, Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with "IRC" brand tires? Will replace my mismatched Chinese tires this Spring with a new set of cruisers. Want to keep the same replacement size as currently on the bike and as recommended by Yamaha: Front-100/90x18, Rear-120/90x16. Checking around I find it very difficult here in the U.S. to find both sizes in the same brand tire. I thought I saw them listed for Shinko a while back but not now. Did find the IRC brand in both sizes at Motorcycle Superstore for $77 each with free S&H. Not as low a price as I wanted but probably not that much more since the S&H is free.

Stabil or Sea Foam in the gas will do the trick. Not certain there is any gain to removing the carbs and placing them in a heated area. Either treat the gas or run dry as Drewpy does. You have done the most important thing by removing the bike from the elements. If you get a moderate day now and then, start it up. Keeping a battery tender connected to the battery is probably more important.

The father of a girl I went to High School with was really big on 2 stroke Saabs. Oh my goodness, that was almost 50 years ago!!

I think the red spoked you show look really good!! BTW, great job so far.

That's what I did with my XS400. It's a nice product. Using the 4 fuse block in the original case does keep things looking original, though. Other methods that seal in the fuse are probably better as they will stop acid fume deterioration (if battery not vented properly) or effects of moisture.

I am not affiliated with this seller in any way other than I did buy my '80 XS400 from him. Not trying to promote his sale - just thought folks on this forum would find this listing interesting. Hope I am not breaking any rules. If so, please remove or move to the proper place. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320620696734&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1123#ht_1860wt_1167 Update: This bike sold for $2002.17 U.S.

Don't have any pics. I did not do the replacement, that was done by the P.O. All I did was replace the bad condition fuse box with a new repro. This (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bussmann-30-Amps-rating-black-in-line-SFE-fuse-holder-for-1-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-fuses/_/N-25gq?counter=3&filterByKeyWord=fuse+holder&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=32422_0_0_) is the type of fuse holder the P.O. installed. Some folks use this (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bussmann-30-Amps-maximum-heavy-duty-in-line-ATC-fuse-holder-with-cover/_/N-25gq?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=fuse+holder&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=32415_0_0_) type for the newer style fuses. Since I have never seen a stock fuse box setup, I really don't know how/what the connector looks like. My son's '80 also had the fuse box replaced with individual fuse holders by a P.O.

Good news about the battery vent. You might also rebuild the original fuse box. IIRC, there has been discussion on this forum regarding such. In any case, you need to do something or your electrics won't be reliable. When you look down on my repro box, the bike looks stock - you just can't see the 4 individual fuse holders below the box. At first, I too was going to replace the newer fuse holders and restore power to the box but I now believe the setup I have makes the bike more reliable and still appears stock to the casual observer. An open-to-the-elements old style fuse holder is just not good for that location. Glad you located some air filters!!

Kind of difficult to diagnose w/o being there. The fuse box is a known issue. The metal tangs that hold the fuses in place corrode and become quite brittle - to the point where, when you move them a little, they break off. Often the cause is battery acid fumes venting right onto the box area because the battery vent tube went missing or became detached from the battery vent nipple. Make certain you have a vent hose and that it is connected. The hose should drop down to just below the frame, keeping the fumes away from anything delicate. This bike has 4 fuses. The amp value of each fuse should be moulded into the box top or printed on a label. Many folks remove the original fuse box and solder in 4 fuse holders. There are different types out there. My bike still uses the original type glass fuses but they are inside weatherproof screw top holders. Others use the newer style fuse with holders that have plastic or rubber caps that keep the weather out. I bought a repro fuse box and screwed it in place (for the original look) and left the newer screw cap fuse holders under the box. Get rid of the old box now as it may be the cause of some or all of your electrical gremlins. One step at a time. Don't fret, you will end up with a nice, reliable bike as well as learn how it works and how to maintain it.

Your profile does not show where you are located - that would help. My son has an '81 XS400 Special II with original wire wheels and drum brakes front and back. Not familiar with the Heritage so I don't know if that will work for you.

No points or condenser in his bike - starting with 1980 the XS400 had solid state ignition.

I never tried the solicon method on the intake manifolds so can't comment on how that goes. If you do this as a temp measure, be certain to clean off the rubber thoroughly so the silicon will adhere. May work for a while but it is much better to replace them. A set will come with new gaskets. You are in good shape if the tank is clean inside. Like I said, could be a clogged cap vent or gas tap filter. Did you disconnect the hose from the carb to see if gas runs out while the engine is shut off? If it does, the gas tap needs rebuilding since it is vacuum operated and should not allow gas flow when the engine is shut down. When replacing spark plugs, get the proper non-resistor NGK plugs as well as new plug boots for the ends of the ignition wires. The boots should be 5K or 10K resistance (ohm) value. Got mine from my local Yammy dealer but you may find them elsewhere cheaper. If the factory plugs are still covering the idle mix screws, you will have to drill them out - best done while carbs are removed for manifold replacement Not difficult but drill slowly with a bitt just slightly smaller than the opening. Once removed, access to the screw is easy. If the small o-ring doesn't come out with the screw, look carefully down inside the opening for it and fish it out. Replacement of these o-rings really does solve stable idle speed and low rpm performance issues. Here is a link to another place where you can get reasonably priced replacement air filters for our bikes: http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xs400/

Hi and welcome to the forum!! The best recommendation I can give you right off the bat is to devote some time to going back through past threads here and reading up on your bike. Most, if not all, of the questions you have asked have been addressed fully and you will find the info very helpful. Your fuel starvation issue could be the result of a clogged gas filter located on the top of the fuel tap (valve) inside the gas tank. Is the inside of your tank very rusty? Could also be a bad fuel tap that needs a rebuild kit. If you leave the gas cap open slightly does the bike still stall? If so, your gas cap vent may be clogged. Take the cap apart and examine/clean. A new cap gasket can be purchased from mikesxs.com. Since the bike is almost 30 years old, you need to check out the intake system to be certain you have no leaks. Check out the info on intake manifolds between the engine and carbs. Also, check out the info here on replacing the VERY SMALL "o-rings" (and maybe idle screws, too) under the idle mixture screw on top of each carb. This website, mikesxs.com, has stuff that will fit your '81 XS400. Other things to consider updating, if not already done so by P.O. are the fuel hose, vacuum hose, spark plugs and ignition wires. The original headlights are sealed beam (can't replace bulb) and are dim because they were lower wattage than we find on modern headlights. The charging system is marginal on our bikes. You can order a replacement headlight reflector unit from candlepower.com that will take a modern H4 55/60 watt bulb. Order the unit that comes w/o bulb then purchase a SilverStar Ultra bulb for an excellent headlight. Also found in a thread here is info on replacing your stock tail/stop bulbs (2) with ultra bright LED bulbs. This lessens the drain on your charging system, compensating for the increased wattage of your new 55/60W headlight bulb. This should get you started.