kindest

weird I did it all online via Gieco's website.. never talked to a person. My vin # is 8 digits as well.. and like I said it asked me to manually put everything in.. no drop down boxes for. it was 132 for a year for me... and Im a first year rider.. never and still don't have my motorcycle license (only permit).

which company are you using.. I just recently did Geico for a 80 xs400 and it wasn't listed.. I had to put in the engine size and model # in manually

i have seen references to people making their own on www.xs400-forum.de but I have yet to find the thread.. if you do make one and it works good please post how you did it w/ instructions etc. eek edit http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://home.arcor.de/cb450k/LuftfilterumbauCB450K.html&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&usg=ALkJrhhUm-8ua_764ExI52MTHH3WYethdg try that

sorry i'm no help but I have the same issue as of this week.. my headlight doesn't work and when it did work it was only when the bike was running. I too have a good bulb.. from what I was reading on older threads I read a few times that it might be the headlight relay.

an update for anyone who needs to replace their neutral housing o-ring and doesn't want to pay 3 dollars for a 5 cent o-ring. matched one up at ace hardware the sku is 4203626 "DANCO" O-RING #64 *Made from compound Nitrile Butadiene Rubber *1-5/16" x 1-1/8" x 3/32" also a tip careful not to tighten that neutral housing too much i cracked one of the corners. i let the bike run for about 15 minutes and no leak with that o-ring.

heh i know its the same for the 79.. so im confident its the same for a 78.. espically since the manual is for 75-81 models. If I find a cheap 50 cent o-ring to work from the hardware store Ill let you know the size.. will save you a couple bucks. If I can at least cut the oil leak in 3/4 by just fixing the neutral o-ring ill be a happy rider.

k thanks guys. got the part #. I work at an ace hardware so I'm gonna try one of our o-rings first and see how well it works.. if it doesn't i will order the right one. I know the ones we have our made from Nitrile Butadiene Rubber which is oil and chemical resistant but not sure the ratio of nitrile (more nitrile the better apparently).

i have a spare neutral house and a spare rod.. just not gaskets that are sealing... so im pretty confident I can fix her up with just the gaskets. I kinda allready pulled the rod out and put it back.. I didn't hear anything make a weird noise or felt any different going in or out so I hope im ok. Can a regular o-ring from a hardware store work for the neutral housing or is it special... since I can't find that part on bikebandit.

looks i found the source.. the neutral switch. the oring I guess is bad on it.. the gasket that holds the clutch rod is a little oily but no oil came out so i probably still have a little life left on that. It looks like a 50 cent oring but I have a feeling its a special one that has to be gas, oil, heat resistant.. etc. where do you all order parts from. well added a second picture.. looks like it is aleaking a little bit from the clutch rod.guess ill replace that too. is it safe to just pull that rod out or is there little orings or certain way it has to go or anything?

thanks for the replies. I haven't changed the oil since I got it.. (2 weeks) but will be doing so within a week.. I swear im partially retarded. I've been staring at the Haynes manual and I can't find the "sprocket cover". is this it. If I unscrew it does that mean the seal has to be replaced regardless.

I notice maybe 1 drip every 48 hours but when the bike is running it seems to drip a lot more.. and it almost seems like its watery oil... I dunno this motorcycle stuff is still real new to me. I took pics of where it appears the oil is coming from but I don't see any place to tighten anything.. The dam Haynes manual doesn't really mention anything there to tighten that I could find. what do you all think. thanks

interesting you posted this cause I just got an Xs400 from some sketchy guy.. and I noticed he had the hose from the carb capped with a double a battery and the hose connected to the engine was a 2ft long vinyl tube that ran to the bottom of the bike and was just left open. I removed it the other day and hooked it up the way its supposed to and everything still seems to function ok like it did before.. but I haven't really got to ride it around for long.

how rusty was your tank. like a 3mm spot every 3 inches or..

oh ok I thought I had to hold that screw steady.. I will try just the socket. the kicker is I bought the exact same motorcycle today for 100 bucks (parts bike) w/ siezed motor and pretty rusty and that damn screw turns no problem. ARGH! lol ok update. I broke it free. I guess I was being a lady... I really put some torque on it and it did make a snap crackle pop sound but its all adjusted now and the clutch is engaging much earlier in the release. thanks everyone.

im in the same boat as you.. my clutch engagement doesn't happen till 99% clutch out so I to have been messing with that nut and set screw. I've tried all the force in the world to break it loose but mine is stuck stuck stuck. It sounds like you broke the cable.. the part where the cable dips into the motor can you lift and pull a broken cable out or is it still "connected". lol didn't realize this was a 09 topic. sorry

ugh.. this thing is like red loctited or something.. it will not move at all. the whole thing will move like a 1/4 turn and take the whole cable with it but the minute I let tension up it snaps back to place.. debating trying an impact screw driver on the set screw.. what do you think?

maybe a body work shop for cars or something.. slip the guy 20 bucks.. couldn't imagine it taking more then 5 minutes.

looking forward to hear how it came out for you.

ugh I just tried to adjust the main nut and screw and the thing will not budge under any circumstances. I did "Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut." from this thread.. http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=21465&st=0&p=120461&hl=+clutch%20+screw&fromsearch=1&#entry120461 any tricks or tips to bust that nut loose?

thanks. I will do this. I was scared it was definately the sign of something bad.

just bought a bike for 500 bucks.. an 1980 XS400 Special II. Drove it home 10 miles even on freeway etc and it runs real good.. goes thru the gears no problem.. the only thing is that the clutch doesn't engage till the lever is 99% out.. is this normal or do I need new parts for the clutch.. I tried messing with the cable via the handlebars but it didn't help. I haven't tried messing with the clutch main adjustment nut thing yet. thanks

heh wowzers. just paid 600 for mine (1980). looks like a sweet bike tho