johnsnownw

First picture, the holes are definitely okay to spray and should be. The top most red arrow points to the is your pilot jet, and you should take it out to clean, and clean the passageway. The second red arrow is pointing to your Main jet, and should also be cleaned along with the passageway. While you've got it apart you should also measure your float height, and clean the Needle valve assembly underneath where the floats attach to the carb, and their passageway. That's actually your air jet,in the last picture, and you should clean it and the passageway. Also, not sure on your carbs, but when you take the pilot screws (also called mixture screws) out to clean, make sure they have the small o-ring that goes on the end. With my carbs if they aren't present, you can never get the bike to idle properly. Many times those o-rings completely disintegrate over time.

You will need to re-jet for both of those things. You should get both and then re-jet, as you'll probably have to change again if you put one on then the other. You can also get all the necessary parts from here: http://www.mikesxs.net/products-37.html#products I also suggest getting new gaskets if you're going to be taking the carbs apart, which you can also purchase from MikesXS. The parts are relatively cheap, so you can purchase 2 different sized jets and see what fits your setup best. Good Luck.

I expected more comments of awesomeness, you guys are letting me down.

The closest mechanic to me won't work on bikes older than 1990, or at least nothing to do with the running of the bike. I've enjoyed learning how to repair, and most are relatively easy to do. You also save a lot of money doing it yourself. The shop I've gone too a few times only charges $50 an hour, which is rather low, however I've probably saved well over $400 in labor alone working on the bike myself. So the savings is worth it to me to try and do as much as possible.

Yeah, it's as awesome as it sounds.

You know, now I'm going to worry about that the whole time I'm working on them. It was bad enough when one of my feeler gauge tips snapped off, and it just happen to shoot out of the engine, instead of in.

And done, just bought them. Is this going to be easy to do, as I can do it without taking the top part of the engine off?

I will do just that, thanks!

LOL, isn't this the same thing you posted above? I was just wondering if purchasing new adjusters would give me better measurements, or if I should just try and tighten them a bit?

Yup, was talking about fantasy. Martin is my favorite fantasy writer at the moment, even though it's taking him ages to get the next book finished.

What actions do you recommend, if wear is causing inaccurate measurements?

Thank you for the offer, but I've been using a Haynes manual, and have set it to the lowest measurement. .003 intake .006 exhaust

This is the result of adjusting them. I would have to say that I had to loosen them for it to be in spec.

Nope, that is with the bike warmed up.

Yup, they were done cold.

I checked and rechecked my measurements, but as you can hear the valves are rather loud. Let me know what you think.

He says he's getting pretty close to finishing "Dance," but waiting these last 2 years has been difficult. I'll have to check out Peter V Brett, hadn't heard of him before.

To get a nice looking seat you're going to have to shell out more than it costs to re-upholster. You can check out ebay to compare pricing. Good looking seats just aren't that cheap.

So, I've been keeping up with George R. R. Martin's journal updates. It seems that the casting for HBO's show based on his book series, A Song of Ice and Fire, is coming along rather well. Most of the people on here probably recognize the actors better than myself, as they are all British. I believe they're building a mock castle for the series somewhere outside of Belfast. Anyway, if you know the series you can check out the updates here:

Well, instead of trying to find a new seat, why not just have the seat re-upholstered. Or is re-upholstering too far removed from original?

If you want to check whether or not your bikes charging system works, you need to attach the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery, and the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery. Then rev the engine up to 3-4000 rpm, the multimeter should shoot up into the 14 volt range. If it doesn't, then something in your charging system is defective. Not sure stock wattage on the headlight.

Some stuff is interchangeable and some stuff isn't. I've used a Master cylinder from MikesXS with success with my XS400. I believe you may need to do the engine parts on a piece by piece bases, as I doubt your question can be answered with a generalization. You've already found many of the stores but there is also: www.siriusconinc.com www.ebay.com (actually has a lot of parts for the 400) P.S.

Is your battery new? I had an issue similar to this and it ended up being a bad battery. Also, you probably need to check the hardware yourself, unless you have absolute faith that the person you purchased it from did the checks properly.

Sorry about that. Here you go: http://compare.ebay.com/like/200487196029?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263632&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=9e1f996c1280a0e669345774fffce626&itemid=200487196029&ff4=263602_263632 Edit: Never mind, only has 13 teeth.

I am unfamiliar with the term "nark." But I feel it too