johnsnownw

Had to send my ring back as it was 1/2 a size too big. However, it looked great! Thanks to everyone who posted! Even root and mervin, who's answers made me smile, but weren't exactly informative

Yup.

Large

Run

Ossuary

That's what it sounds like to me.

I've gotten bad gas here in the US before too. That's why I stick to name brand.

What kind of wedding band did you get? Seems that many people are going non-traditional with metals these days. I personally went with Rose Gold, I had been planning on Black Titanium, but heard it scratches really easily. Just curious, as my band is supposed to arrive today!

I don't call my triumph or the yammy by name. However, I do talk to both of them. Maybe I could call my Triumph whitey-Mcwhite-white-blueline-face. Seems like far too many syllables though. Yammy could be called Ol'Clacksy, but that's not really very flattering.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. For whatever reason I've been having trouble posting. Now I can't use the messaging system on YOC. Apparently I've had my permissions removed?? Anyway... I used a tiny K&N filter (62-2480) for my crankcase breather. They use to be under $10 from autozone, but I just checked and it comes up as $22 now. I've had this one laying around for years. I attached it to a 45° 1/2" copper street elbow. With the smaller end in the filter, the larger end fits loosely over the breather vent. I put a couple o-rings over the vent. I believe they were 9/16" x 3/32", but I'm not positive. I put 1 between the 2 rings on the breather vent, and 1 above the top one. Then just slid the elbow over them. It's plenty snug, and haven't had any problems. If you don't want to spend the money for that filter you might be able to find similar for cheaper. I think mikesXS has one too. No worries, thanks for the reply. I was thinking that is what you probably did, but I wasn't sure how using the filter would affect the fuel/engine system. Glad to know it's as simple as using a crankcase breather filter. I've seen many inexpensive ones, so I think that would work for me.

On my bike, though an 80, the only light that doesn't come on until the bike is running is the headlight. I don't believe the brake light would have a relay. Maybe he needs a new ignition switch?

Yeah, but if it lasts 10 years...

It is number 8 in the schematic I've linked for you: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m8261sch212889 Drewpy may have a better idea of where to get these cheaper though, as the one at bikebandit is listed at $121, which is outrageous.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn1GjfiUkkw&feature=related

I would recommend purchasing a new headlight relay, it could be as simple as a faulty relay.

If it's leaking into the filter that means there is an issue with your float assembly. You will have to dismantle the carb to see exactly where the problem lies. However, the most common issue with that type of leak is that your float is set to high. You will need to measure the float height and adjust accordingly. If your float is set at the correct height, then the issue lies in the needle valve. Also, check to make sure your float is not punctured. Good Luck.

Quite an auspicious day to complete your cbt, to me anyway

If you haven't looked, MikeXS has a cafe seat for the 650, not sure how much of a difference there is between the 650 and the 750 tank. Check it out: http://www.mikesxs.net/products-17.html#products

1. Your mixture is too rich, that's why you are getting the black powdery mess. Where is the carb leaking from? 2. You do have BS32 carbs, if the carbs are stock. Cannot help you with the jet issue, as I've had no experience with BS32 carbs. However, if I had to venture a guess, I would say the jets for the BS34 carbs would fit, but don't hold me to it. 3. I think your clutch issue is more a product of (a) you don't have it adjusted properly or (b.) you need a new clutch cable. 4. You will have to dismantle the forks to see the condition of your springs, if they are fine, then adding fork oil, assuming there is no leak, will fix the problem. 5. If you do not have a background in electrical wiring, I do not recommend removing the starter system and wiring. As you could easily screw it up and that will probably be a costly repair, if not monetarily then at least time consuming. Besides, having the system connected isn't hurting anything.

Also, make sure you don't have your idle screw turned in too much. That will also cause the throttle to stick at higher revs.

Not sure of the proper float height, but you set it by bending the floats. There is a prong that sits on top or clips onto the needle valve, and it is this prong that you will bend up or down to get the proper height. Make sure you measure properly when you find out the proper height. It may be that your floats are the correct height, but your needle valve is not working correctly. Just make sure you measure really well before going all bend crazy on those floats

Yes. I'm not sure about your model, but if you have a crankshaft breather hose connected to your air-hose then gasoline could also leak into your engine. Either way your problem is most likely due to some aspect of the float assembly, as that controls the amount of fuel let into the carbs.

Key As in a Key Lime

This is an old thread, but what the hell. I nod or wave, depending on speed and circumstance. I do not wave to mopeds/scooters (sorry kishan), as they usually don't know what I'm doing. I do dislike lack of reciprocation, which I don't always get when riding the Triumph.

Your float bowls are set too high, would be my guess.