johnsnownw

Well, I've only had her idling but she idles at 1150 rpm like a champ. No needle jumping or anything. Smooth throttle and smooth runing engines, unlike when I first picked her up. I won't know if she's really good to go without a few test rides, but at this point it's working great. I do need to buy a new throttle cable though, any ideas on what size type I need and whether I can purchase it from MikesXS, as I'm going to purchase braided brake lines and a new Front master cylinder, one of the newer types. Thanks everyone for their help, especially Master Drewpy. Not going to celebrate too early though, but again, thanks everyone for your help so far.

Well, I decided to stretch out the spring a bit, so that it puts more pressure on the nipple. Now, instead of leaking fuel like a sieve it only drips. Now, since I already have an inline shut off valve, I think that's acceptable. Or should I just say screw it a purchase a manual petcock?

Thanks Drewps. Would you happen to know if it makes a difference that one of the cut out holes in the diaphragm is directly over the channel.

This would be the notch/channel I've mentioned: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks drewps, so far I've dismantled the thing 3 times. Hasn't made a bit of difference. I keep thinking it has something to do with the notch in the plastic bit. It's located in one of the corners on the side that doesn't hold the metal circular plate.

Oh it's the XS alright. Well I tried again and it still leaks. No idea what the problem could be.

Well, just took it apart and put it back together. There is a little notch/channel in the rubber/plastic piece that fits between the two diaphragms. Is there a place where the notch should be in particular? i.e. facing the top or bottom when the petcock is in the tank.

Right, so I rebuilt the petcock and have just installed it back in the tank. However, before putting it back on the bike I wanted to make sure that there were not leaks. Well, after putting gas in the tank fuel will leak out of the petcock no matter the position of the lever, i.e. Res, ON, Prime. Seems to leak more on Prime though. I guess I need to know if there is anything wrong, or whether it will do this until I hook up the vacuum bit for the first time? Thanks.

BTW, Drewpy, I don't suppose you would mind flying across the pond if I can't get this motorcycle running?

Thanks drewpy, just making sure I haven't missed a small detail.

So, I'm finally to the stage where I put the carbs back on the bike, and since the tank is done I can fill it with gas and try to get the bike running properly. Is there anything I need to do besides filling the carbs with gas before I start her up?

Even if I needed to lose a stone, it would have little affect on the performance. As it's my fiance's bike and she might weigh 120 lbs wet. But thanks all the same

Here's what she looks like. All my finace wanted was a solid color, and I probably would have chosen a different one, but it's not really my bike. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Pay no attention to the reflection.

Quite a bit more than that, after the first electrolysis, due to it flash rusting. But, no rusty build up, just little spots here and there, and then along the welds in the bottom of the tank. Enough rust that there was rusty gasoline in the float area of the carbs.

The sealant doesn't dry very quickly, so you'll have time to wipe away all of the "goop" from the places it shouldn't be. After putting the stuff in, it was still wet after 4 hrs. You should take the duct tape off of the rest of the tank when you get to the draining step of the process anyway, that way you can make sure all of the holes are clear of the sealant.

The instructions that come with the kit recommend that you use duct tape over all the holes in the tank. This method worked pretty well for me, and I followed the instructions to a T. Yes, remove the gas cap and use duct tape. Yep, the instructions tell you what to do. But after pouring in the POR 15 you just roll the tank around really slowly for about 30 min. I probably did it for a bit longer than that. Then you pull the duct tape off and let it drain out the petcock holes. But after you let it drain, I would recommend looking inside the tank as best you can, then roll the tank or position the tank in a way that the sealant can reach those areas. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of following the directions, as you can screw it up completely by not doing so. For instance, the tank has to be completely dry before you pour in the POR 15. I used a hair dryer to blow it dry for about 2 hrs. I used duct tape to seal the dryer on the fuel hole so I could leave it to dry.

I did just that, went by and he showed me some pictures of work they had done. If it looks anything like the others, it should be well worth it. Mind you it will be a solid color, no designs or accents.

Well, I contacted Maaco and that was a bust as they wanted to charge me $250 for slightly better than basic, to do the tank and side covers. I contacted another place that will do a metallic color with clear coat for $200 sight unseen. I think I'm going to try to haggle them down to less, or perhaps just scratch the clear coat and knock some money off. The place has good reviews and the guy I talked to seemed pretty honest and willing to work with me. So, we'll see how that goes.

Well, I'll give an update now. I spent about 4 hrs with the tank after pouring in the POR 15, might have been a little obsessive about getting the tank properly coated. To do this, I kept looking into the tank with a flashlight through the petcock and fueling holes, after the "draining" step, to make sure I hadn't missed any spots. Even though the tank drains much of the excess during the aforementioned step, there is still enough left to hit any spots where the sealant is thinner, or just happened to miss. I only needed to get to places that the sealant was thinner, as it seems to coat all the areas pretty well. So, after about 10ish hrs after the initial pouring of the sealant, it was probably dry to the touch...though I did not test it other than to notice that the color had changed and it was no longer shiny(wet looking). Everything seems to be coated well and no it's just a matter of waiting 3ish more days until I can put fuel in. So, at this moment it would appear that I would recommend using the product.

Where would one go to get a decent but inexpensive paint job. Only things to be painted are the side covers and the tank. Places that specialize in motorcycle painting, seem to be overpriced and uninterested in basic paint jobs. All she wants is a solid sparkly silver. Not necessarily looking for a specific place, just a type of place.

It's for the inside of the tank. You have to buy the motorcycle kit, as it comes with instructions and three different chemicals you will need.

I thank everyone for their input, I had already ordered the POR 15, so that's what I'm using at this very moment. It's quite the pain to use, right now I'm on the first rust removal and tank priming steps. I will put the sealant in tonight, and it will be 4 days until I am allowed to put gas in the tank. I'll update when I'm finished.

My Haynes confirms the 120/90, but under the "Wheels" is shows that the info for your model is unavailable. Sorry I don't have more info.

You can get BS34 parts here: The parts for the carbs should be interchangeable.

Not that this answers your question, but I was told that Yamaha has discontinued that part, so you wouldn't be able to buy one through a dealer anyway. Dependent on where you live, or your time frame, you may want to give these people a call: