johnsnownw

The only feelers I was able to get, aside from the straight ones, are both at the lowest gauge. So, I suppose I'll try setting it to the lowest one. Just got to wait for the bike to cool down, shouldn't take too long as I only had the bike running for 3-4 minutes.

Wish I could bend them, the intakes are from .003-.005. The .003 and .004 gauges that I have seem far to flimsy to bend. I can't tell you how distraught I feel at the moment, I just cannot believe that I didn't adjust them correctly...I checked and re-checked them.

Right, so I attempted to adjust my valves today. It did not go as planned. I think I have the exhaust valves properly adjusted, however the intake valves make even more noise than before. I only had the straight feeler gauges which didn't help much with the angle I was using. I couldn't get the bent ones for the intake, but had them for the exhaust. So, I think I've just loosened the intakes a bit too much. However, I also changed the oil, and I'm not sure if that would have an effect or not. Does my current situation ring a bell with anyone? Did I just loosen the intakes too much, and that's why the valves are louder?

I have one more question then. Does the alternator cover have a gasket behind it?

Thanks, mate.

I'm going to go ahead and assume that the exhaust valves are on the front of the engine, and the intake ones are facing the carbs. However, assuming doesn't always work out so well, so can someone confirm this for me. Thanks.

I'm just putting this up there for those that do a search for carb adjustment. I can guarantee with 100% certainty that if you are running the bike stock that you will need to turn these screws out to between 3 and 5 turns. In my opinion, as has been stated before, start with 3.5 turns out (from seating the screws) and continue adjusting out from there. Most likely you will be adjusting out, and not in. Hope this helps anyone simply needing some info on this adjustment.

We only have one car, and that is used to get things I can't fit on the bike. Also, living in MN doesn't really allow for a good ride during the winter...ice and snow and whatnot.

Yup, one time I was riding on a 4 lane road that also had a middle turn lane. I was going east in the lane closest to the center turn lane. This guy coming West in the lane farthest away from the center turn lane decides he wants to turn on a side road, so he makes a turn accross two of his lanes and the center turn lane right into my path. He sees me at the last second, at this point I had slammed on the brakes and was sliding down the road with both wheels locked up, he turns back into the turn lane at the last second and I go sliding by with about 1 inch between my bike and his front bumper. That was my first near miss, scared the bejesus out of me.

It's possible, but more likely you need to tension the chain properly. Not sure how to do that on your bike though.

What he did is the mod most people use. Not sure what kind of material he glued on, but most people use air filter foam and wrap it around the air filter screen. If you are wanting to change to pod filter you will more than likely have to re-jet the carbs. Some have done this with their bikes here, and I'm sure they'll come along and give you their as well.

Well, this is what the old girl looks like at the moment, she could do with a bit of polishing but I think she's coming together quite well. Thanks again everyone, for all the help you've given thus far.

I'm not exactly sure what you are fixing, however if you simply need a new master cylinder why not consider rebuilding it, rebuild kits are a lot cheaper than the whole unit. What "controls" need to be replaced, and why? If you're trying to save money, why do you want pod filters and a re-jet? There are plenty of controls and brake sets that you could modify in some way to work on the bike, but I'm not entirely sure what your priorities are here. Do you just need it to pass inspection, or are you trying to get the look you want?

A. If you aren't sure you even enjoy riding...and depending on what bike you "want." It will probably make more sense to go with a cheap easier to ride bike.

This is exactly why I'm reluctant to purchase any more cosmetic parts for the bike, I feel like I'll put a bunch of money into the bike and then it will start crapping out on me. *knock on wood* I suppose at least for me it comes with purchasing a 30 year old bike, you just never know. Sorry mate, your current situation is my nightmare.

Can do, hope to have it done by this weekend.

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Thanks Drewps.

Does anyone know if I need a torque wrench for the screws on the alternator cover? I got a quote of $178 to do the adjustment, and if all I need to do is buy a torque wrench and feeler gauges to do it myself, I would gladly make an attempt.

I think the stripes work really well with the width of the tank, but I can see where you're coming from.

That's a looker. I really like the tank and the choice in shocks.

Well both the XS400's and XS650's use Mikuni BS34 CV carbs, so the likelihood of them working on the XS500 is rather high. If you're looking at salvage yards out of state you may want to check this one out, as they are the biggest in the U.S.: At least you can compare costs anyhow.

I'm not positive, but you may be able to use the Mikuni BS34 carbs on your bike, and they are easier to come by. I would check for junked ones first, as they will be cheaper. Also, where do you live?

That's terrible mate, I wouldn't know what else to use other than an extractor.