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kiln
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Everything posted by kiln
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Thanks again, will try it out and see how it goes. -
Tank you Airhead, for the quick response. I see about an inch needs to be cut on the spacer inside the spring and looking at the pic posted I can estimate the extension to be about an inch, would you agree on my estimation?
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Digging this up through research...... #Airhead, is there any change you could perhaps scan those install documents to a downloadable PDF file with dimensions of the Bushes, Allen cap bolts and "extension piece" please?
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...BuMp... Happy to report that the 12v system is still fully functional after 5+ years
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~~UPDATE~~ 2 Years on and the 12v conversion still does its job 100%. Even the battery is still working fine. Keep up the good work NE0 !!! This upgrade is as good as the DT itself, it is as if it was born to be 12V Safe riding everyone
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Hi there. Any suggestions on what can be done to make the shocks stiffer & keep responsiveness? Rider wheighs in at about 15 stone....
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Nicely done NEO Keep up the innovative skelectrics on the DT........DT's will live forever........
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Hi all, Today i have opened up the air cleaner box with a 25mm hole and it made a huge improvement. Then I started tinkering with the timing. I moved the plate with the coils about 4mm clockwise and then checked the flywheel timing with a strobe light.Found the flywheel centre line exactly tdc at 4200rpm and after that, moving anti clockwise as the revs climb. Is this correct? By moving the coil plate clockwise is the timing retarted or advanced?
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Thanks for the info "wild foamy". I put back the oem type steel ones and will go ride the weekend to test them.The booyesens ones still looked fine and sealed when sucked closed, no evidence of worn edges either.
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Rosa, I am not sure which post you read, but here is the link. You need not do anything to the stator, without any regulators it cranks out 19v + I still run with my conversion as mentioned in the post and I still use the same battery and 12v lights.
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In the mean time......Found a spare reed block with original parts. My question then is: If the fibreglass reeds only last a short while is it not worthwile to keep the original steel ones? When would one consider replacing the original steel ones, i.e. after how many km's or would the telltale signs also be "blow back"? Thanks in advance for all the advise.
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Hi Oldgi...ergh Airhead. Thanks. I have been busy riding a KLR650, but now and again I jump back on one of the DT's. I will change to a spare reed set and of course I will get the Hytech ones from Yambits. Yambits served me well in the past and I can also recommend them. I have a 1988, DT50 to rebuild for my son so I will be asking help on the forum in the future.
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I have noticed recently that there is a huge air blow back through the air cleaner when i left a cover screw off. The air becomes much more obvious when revving the engine. I have Booyesens reeds installed and they are sealing properly from what I could observe. Is this normal for a 2-stroke or is there a fix of some kind? Is this detremental to the bikes performance? Any suggestions?
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I used a 14/47 setup and she purrs happily at 7500rpm in 6th gear, retaining all her spots....I seem to have found the bike's the G...sweet spot.
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I have a 13t in front and 47t in the back.The bike gets nice and quick to 6th gear but at 9000+ revs the engine wont last. so i will try 14t in front and see if any improvement is to be made.I had 16t in front which is why it dropped speed in 6th.
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Yes, I had that wiseco piston in as a temp solution whilst waiting for the yam piston, a time investment worth waiting for. After much deliberation/testing, it is my belief that standard is best. Also running premix with mineral oil. Only the sprockets to fine tune.
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Standard carb jetting, and standard airbox with k&n filter. It started this issue after installing standard yamaha piston and rings, checked and verifeid gudgeon pin sizes from skirt etc.
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Oldgit can you, Neo or cynic Comment please.
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I sure hope that everyone can voice their opinions about the topic at hand. My setup is as follows: Gearbox standard, front sprocket =15t and rear sprocket=47t. New carb with standard jetting and K&N air filter. Boyesens reeds. New OEM piston & rings. BR8EIX spark plug. Standard exhaust & tailpipe. The bike starts fine and rides with a lot of torque in lower gears. But when riding up to 5th gear, the revs pick up nicely and goes 8000+, yet when changing to 6th gear, the revs drop to 4500 with WOT and speed drops progressively as well. When in top gear going at WOT there seems to be a willingness to go faster but it feels like brakes is applied, going at 3/4 throttle a feeling of just cruising is at hand but there is no desire from the engine to go faster. Do I open the bottom end for a bearing replacement exercise or would you recommend that I change the front sprocket to 14t or the back to 49t? Any suggestions welcome and if possible I will try to test them in the coming weeks and keep the post updated.
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Hi Jay, You could try the following:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-YAMAHA-DT175-DT-175-WIRING-HARNESS-250-/390154450599?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ad70476a7 Or if you want OEM try:http://www.nwvcp.com/pages/oemparts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx for the part numbers.
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Repair it and ride it like you stole it!!! Parts available from: http://www.nwvcp.com/pages/oemparts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx
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Explanation of 2stroke additives in more detail.Article for R/C Aircraft but still relevant. http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/oil_test/index.htm Enjoy the read.
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Original carb has 125 main jet and 22.5 pilot jet, Y jet needle , 2.0 slide and carb has a 4hc20 stamp on it. I have found a solution though. I bought this carb (b in previous post) and installed a 25 pilot jet, 160 main jet and 2.0 slide with 5G4-3 jet needle( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1439Q2el2649QQitemZ180408901679QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT ). Now the bike can idle easily and even the choke won't bog it down. This Kei Han Taiwan replacement carb is highly reccommended since with a bit of tweaking it can even be used for a DT175(Tested on DT175 and now on DT125) . Thanks to all that is always willing to assist with advice.
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