muppet

Ok, enoughs enough with my bike. I want/need an expert to get this bike running correctly. Ive been to the dealers and they were not much help (1 hours labour), another local garage who said buy another carb or the engine seals have gone etc etc without looking at the bike. Im willing to pay someone to get this bike to work correctly i.e to start easily with the choke and without, idle correctly, to pull off with it bogging down and to set my power valve servo cables up correctly. Again Im willing to pay someone IF they can sort this out. Any takers I live in coventry

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DTR-125-1997-DT-125-R-SPARES-REPAIR-/150628622677?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item23122a6155 Dont know what or if there is any difference in frame years so might be good for you or not.

ok , i need a recommendation for a chain/padlock. I need it to do 2 things, 1st is primary security of a bike and second is read below. Need the chain and lock to lock a security gate on a shared driveway in my road. Im having a extension built and the t**t down the road has locked the gates with another chain and lock to stop my skip being taken away and another one being delivered. A car is left in the access road so again no access can be gained from this shared access so what better way than to f**k him at his own game than put my own lock on it untill i can see the land registry and determin the legality and course of action i can take. Before any one says i cant do it - YES i can as the gates were put up to stop any anti social problems occuring and the residents including me put money together to buy them. Neighbours who fu**ing needs them!

A few posts on here for the same problems. I have the same problem but im working through them. check that the throttle cables free and not stuck from either dirt/age or routed badly under the fuel tank. 2 adjustments screws which alter the idle speed and throttle response. carb MAY be dirty and may need cleaning and the big one to miss is make sure the air filter housing is sitting correctly with the carb or it will give a lot of the symptoms your getting. Mines carbs been cleaned and its now sitting at 1000-1200 and needs a fine adjustment but as yet i havent had a chance to do it yet. Hopefully you will get other help from more experienced people on here.

Got the old carb back today, and the only marking i can find on that are 3m?00 t052. Havent had time to strip the carb off the bike yet to fully check it. Pics uploaded on bucket of old carb.

Ok, i think you may have solved some of the mystery here on what carb i have. Thanks to you I came across the 1999 model onwards in the haynes manual and im pretty certain thats what i have. It looks identical as with p141 pic 6.1 plastic insert across main and pilot jets as i definetly have that on my carb, pic 6.2 spring seat (luminous green) again on mine. When i brought the carb off fleebay it didnt list the year (came off a field bike) but it looked the same. On p85 pic 3.4 i am thinking thats what mine should be but im now convinced its 99 onwards. Which now leads me to the next question will this carb work ok on my bike if its set up ok. I'll take the carb off on tuesday when im back and take some pics of the float bowl removed so you can see. cheers

I cant find any markings on the carb except the manufacturer. I've got a week to get it running as its booked in for the local yam dealers because ive had enough of it. I'll play about with it some more but i doubt i'll get it working correctly in that time. I'll keep you posted but any more help and i'll try that before it goes in. cheers

Just updated the details. Its a 1991 (H reg) but a 1990 model. 3md model (frame and engine number). Where is the id number for the carb then cause all i see is mikuni?

ok, i adjusted the screw 1.5 turns and no difference. stripped the carb out and cleaned with contact cleaner and compressed air. Got the bike to idle at 2000 revs without cutting out, took the bike out and it ran better but the engine still stays to high at idle. Adjusted and adjusted some more and gave up at 1pm. Now its not the original carb that came with the bike cause i errrr damaged it so i got a replacement off fleebay which was very very very near identical. How do i know what type of mikuni I have on now? The needle is on ring 2(middle position), cleaned the float bowl, jetting needle etc (got the yamaha workshop manual) I can only think its the set up that causing this problem but its killing me with this hot weather and not being able to use properly oh and the fact everytime im done off come the handlebars and put inside the house for security. right, now to relax and watch quadrophenia on dvd.

cheers - ill have a look tomorow as its 10.30pm. Dont think the neighbours would like me much if i started the bike up! I'll take some proper pics tomorow and post them on photobucket.

Ok, i'm a fairly happy bunny in that i have the bike MOT'd, insured and taxed and its goes but ....... its now driving me mad. It keeps cutting out at junctions which is embarassing me now and knocking my confidence. Ive adjusted the throttle stop screw and i can get the bike to idle at 1500-2000 revs but then when you pull the throttle its stutters and dies. I then adjust it to 2000-3000 revs and its fine so i take it out for a blast round the roads and its cuts out when you come to pull away from a junction. It mainly happens or 99.9% happens when the choke is off even when the engine is warm. I havent adjusted the pilot screw as I would rather ask before adjusting something I dont fully understand and i could create more problems by adjusting it. Apart from that I DO LOVE IT and ive had 1 offer to buy it on my first ride out - NOT A CHANCE its MINE!

Well this is probably the last bit of advice i need for a bit. Im picking my bike up on saturday as its now working, the engine sounds great after sitting for 17 years also brought myself a uvex enduro shiny black for £160 - asked the dealer to price match from germany and they said yes. I need to buy a disk lock with an alarm but the one i have is a standard oxford disc lock but it doesnt fit the dtr disk holes! Which ones fit and are recommended. I now feel like its christmas and waiting for the big day to arrive.

ok, when you look up the exhaust port you have the powervalve (silver cylinder bar) - thats the bit im unsure of. The pulleys/cables are ok.

need some help in setting this up please. I've read the pinned toppic at the top and haynes and the official yamaha service book but i cant find the info on what position it should sit at when i put the servo housing etc back on. You have the middle section that has the curved bit missing but im a bit lost as to how the power valve works to understand the postion it should be in. The servo is fine as its goes as per all the videos ive seen but its the poervalve that im not sure about. cheers muppet

well i went to the dealers this morning to order a cover and its been discontinued in silver (grey)but they know someone who will put a new cover on it (not an original) for far less. As soon as its done i'll let you know with pics.

Lads and ladies, I need to replace the seat cover as it has slight hole in it and me being anal about getting the bike looking nice I now need to either replace or repair the seat cover, I had a quote to replace it at £130 with something different but i think i can get original yam at £80 but it will need fitting so again total about £100 plus. Looking at either repair in midlands or alternative to yam original - and grey (Again im anal) did look at ebay but they dont do it in my colour. I am willing to look at another colour if it looks good just dont say things like purple that wont match a red bike.

Do you work for them cause you really are selling them to me

Ladies and gentlemen, I need some help on a new helmet please. Im looking at a arai tour x3 or shoei hornet - basically that type of helmet (dual sport) but a: I cant really justify £280-350 for a helmet that will be used for less than 100 days a year but as they say what price do you put on your head? b: its cheaper to buy online than a high street shop but the last time i brought a helmet i brought a helmet that cut the circulation to my head - i thought it would get better over time it didn't! How do i measure properly without buying a helmet to big or to small again or is it just better to go the shop? c: best place to buy d: what recommendations for a helmet. Conditions for puchase are: Bike used is a dt125r in red age 30 ish Live in north warwickshire/west midlands border but i drive for a living. something stylish, sensible. I have looked at mx helmets (gold standard) but i might look a bit of a tit at my age with a full on mx helmet! Thanks

got some PJ1 MOTORCYCLE FLAT BLACK EXHAUST SYSTEM PAINT which goes to 1500f trouble is has to be painted above 21c so looks like the heatings gona be blasted out in the back room - yes the bikes inside the house cause i kicked my tenant out (carepets were wrecked anyway).

update on the rebuild. nearly done. need to sort out a lose wire for the speedo light, sand down the exhaust, fit the servo/powervalve set up and panels. http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae143/earos74/

Thanks for the answer but ive now gone and ordered the ball bearings at 20p each. It was just too high for what i liked and i'd just had enough of trying to get it right no matter what i tried, in the end i was just not happy with the height difference.

I need some help please. I replaced the loose bearings with the one below but when i try to refit the clocks they are not close enough for the top yokes and headlight frame to bolt back together. Will the item i fitted not work or am i doing something wrong? http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/DT_125_R/90/picture/Tapered_Headrace_Top_Bearing/

gentleman and ladies, anybody know where to get the seals for the front and rear callipers. Got a pair off flea bay but they don't fit (too big). Its either main dealer £9 front and £27 rear. I know wemoto does the front but not rear and I'm a bit concerned that I might get another set of seals that don't fit.

cheers - you saved me a lot of hassle and time wasting

headlight question: Q - does the headlight/tail light only work when the engine is running? I ask as i can get the indicators,horn,dimmer light,temp gauge to work with the battery connected but not the headlight bulb/taillight. Ive checked the switch/bulb for continuity, checked the wiring back to the cdi but no voltage which im expecting should be 8-10v dc so should the headlight work with the engine not running or running? Im thinking that as the cdi is a charging unit its got to be running to work - the tail light does work as the brake light works when the front brakes pulled and when its in park the dimmer light and tail light light up.