HoughMade

The sprocket cover itself does not seal anything (the engine cover to its left does, but no need to remove that right now). I agree that it looks like water in the oil. Oil should not be that color of brown. I would not run it until I had changed the oil.

Have you changed the oil? If not, do it and use the proper weight motorcycle or diesel engine oil. The pictures are directly below the clutch actuation rod. That is a frequent source of oil leaks. Take the sprocket cover off and see if the oil is coming from that high up. If so, the seal is cheap...but can be a challenge to change. Oil could also leak from the neutral switch.

Like Noah was getting at, go down to an auto parts store and find a small air filter that will fit that hose. You con't block it off and you don't want dust to be able to get in there. They are even called "breather filters". You should be able to find one that fits. If you are sure you are not going back to stock air boxes, you could cut the hose off a little lower.

You said "any suggestions"- and when it comes to old vacuum petcocks, I only have one suggestions: ditch them. I;ve heard too many stories about the rebuilt petcocks leaking...or starting to leak again in short order. If you can get them to work right, they sure are convenient, but they're not for me.

That is the crankcase breather. This allows excess air pressure in the crankcase to be vented and any fumes are burned in the engine. It is supposed to be connected to the rubber intake that goes from the carbs to the air boxes. That intake has a crossover that connects the two sides together and there is a port for the breather to connect to on the crossover. If you overfill the oil, it will vomit out of that breather.

Don't ask questions you don't want to hear the answer to.... But the same principle applies, floats appear to be a little low.

Think it's easier to kick on the center stand, but that's because of my body position relative to the bike. Mine starts on first kick with the side stand or center. Maybe your floats are set a hair low...but if it is otherwise running well and you prefer putting it on the center stand, I wouldn't worry about it.

Were it me, I'd take sprocket cover off, take the whole clutch actuator off the sprocket cover from behind, then work on it on the bench. Having done that, my rule of thumb is that if it too tight, it needs heat. Not red hot, just enough flame to warm things up. I use MAPP, but propane would work. I would only do that if the part is removed, like I said. Mine was so tight it almost sounded like it was breaking when I finally got it free.

Loosen up the cable, then adjust the main clutch adjustment, then adjust the cable. Until you do that, we can't figure out if the problem goes deeper. My sense is that the adjustments will probably do it.

No bids...color me surprised....and white exhaust...it's a look, I guess.

Here's a crazy idea- send an email to carbscapital.com to see if there is a way around the ordering issue (should work with any other seller too). You might use the occasion of the e-mail exchange to ensure you are getting the right part.

When I had the idle mixture too lean, I couldn't kick start it to save my life. I richened it up quite a bit and it's first kick every time. Might not be it, but worth a try.

Laquer thinner dissolves Yamabond, so see if you can wick some between those case halves.

Well, that's over $4,800 US. I'm afraid that guy kept receipts for everything he spent on the bike....and he's at least trying to break even...perhaps even for his labor. Pity that your labor and what you have spent have nothing to do with market value.

That doesn't sound bad at all. There seems to be a little valve noise when you had the mic right up by the valves, but nothing too serious. It may be worth checking the clearances if you have not done that lately. As to you questions, I don't know how many turns in it should take to bottom the screws- I just go by feel. Your screws look fine. If they are forced in to far, the tips can be flattened or even broken off. Y'know, I'm so dense that when I first adjusted the idle mixture (at least the first time I did it right), I has to put a dot with a Sharpie on one side of the screw so I could keep track of the turns out accurately. I use about 3.25-3.5. The first time I tried it at all, I was used to servicing a different kind of engine where carb adjustments were described in terms of how many "flats" the screws were turned out- this means every time the screw slot is turned so it is oriented in the same way is a flat...which means only a turn of 180 degrees instead of 360...but I soon learned the error of my ways...but I digress. When the throttle is open, I wouldn't thing the idle mixture would effect much. Have you ever modified the main jet or needle? If not, it's probably not that either. Have you balanced the carbs? The idle sounds pretty good, but if you have not, give that a shot. If your plugs look carbon fouled, it may be time to lean it a bit, I guess, but again, if the problem is when the throttle is open....how are your air filters?

Regarding the headlight- are both high and low beam out? If so, check the fuse and the connections around the fuse first. If it is one or the other, take the bulb out and see if you are getting power to the bulb. If you are, try jumpering direct battery power to the headlight to double check it before replacing. If the bulb lights- you have eliminated one thing. If not and there is power through the normal circuit, the bulb is the culprit. If there is no power to the bulb, and there is no problem with the fuse or connections around the fuse- then it gets more complicated. Try the simple stuff first.

...exactly- and if they still don't come, warm them up with a propane torch.

Sounds like a vacuum leak at the petcock....another reason I got ride of the vacuum operated petcock. Spray some WD04- around the back side of the petcock when it is running and see if the sound changes.

I agree with everything Drewpy says. This sounds like a lean idle issue. Assuming no intake leaks (good advice of what to check above, you need a richer idle mixture. I have my idle screws at about 3.5 turns out and it revs easily and returns to 1200 rpm idle quickly. I know what the manual says, but those settings are aimed at passing emissions tests, not at good performance.

If rock oil is motorcycle oil and everything is in adjustment, sounds like time for a new clutch.

Have you been using motorcycle specific oil or general auto oil?

How many miles are on it? How many of those did you put on? (helpful to know maintenance history) Does this bike have a shared sump with the engine, trans. and clutch? if so, what oil has been used in it? Is there sufficient slack in the clutch cable when it is not pulled in? Has the clutch itself been adjusted recently? It could simply be the need for a new clutch, but let's look at the simple stuff first....and Welcome!

Nicely done....kind of cheesy in my eye, but seems like the work is well done.

Good news- it's supposed to be that way. If you doubt me and you have an XS400, prove your confidence in my error by topping off the oil, then taking off your alternator cover....but don't say I didn't warn you.

Yep, I've seen them. Ones I have seen were home made. They drilled out a spark plug and attached a length of air hose with a filler valve at the end. I think someone made have sold a manufactured version. HOWEVER, I have only seen them used off road in emergency situations. Then the tire is dismounted back in civilization, cleaned out and refilled. I don't recommend it. Now, I do not endorse this, but perhaps on a fuel injected bike where you could unplug the injector on the cylinder you are using, it would be safer, but I won't be the test case.