Tommy AJ Stanton-Cole

It suddenly popped into my head mate.... the way you've put that light could cause trouble.... What happens when you brake hard on the front wheel, and the forks go up? :S Might want to reconsider positioning.... But then again, you might've checked and it might be fine. Just making sure!!

I thought you did! But you sounded serious

True- in the dry they're quite substantial. I myself have nearly got my knee down (I don't have sliders, so I didnt bother!!) What do you mean by "riding on the rims"? The worst thing is cross-winds on Ice. Now THAT has stopped me from going out. Heavy cross-winds are annoying enough in the shine of summer! I hope the lights shine a better shine on the road for you, anyways

That explains alot. I've been through three showers THIS WEEK. I ride it EVERYDAY (Mon-Fri 20 miles per day, weekends vary LOTS between 5-100), Rain, Shine, (And yes, I really do!) through Snow/Ice. (Much fun.) And the factory tyres are RUBBISH, as I'm sure you also know! Saving up for some better ones In the meantime- I'm learning to control my skids.

I'm glad I could help! Was my first post on here. I don't even know how to use the forum properly yet I'm glad you sent a picture of the finished product! I was gonna ask for one anyways Just finished reinstalling my alarm to my YBR, Tell you what, its a b**** to find somewhere to put the siren which is secure, and NOT soundproof! And something else... How do you keep the thing so damned clean?! (From looking at your bike in pictures!) And how did you stop the crank case bolts from corroding? Or is it just cause I use mine to much? I've already stripped the paint and rust off the exhaust, and high-temp-anti-corrosion painted it. But the bolts? I've got 4000 miles on it, and it only came out the showroom in late november last year. And its not as if I don't maintain it... I waterproof-grease everything, WD-40 appropriate places... even use FS 365 on the crank-bolts....

Unplug the two blue wires on the relay, then swap them round. From the colour of the connectors (IE Black/White) I can see that you've either put them in the wrong way, or that you've cut one of them in half, and connected it in the middle to the other, then used the other half. Which would be CRAZY, as you'd come out with the same result as just using both wires as they were If this fails, send me a picture this picture ( ) but with you one more step backwards when taking it, so I can see the route of the blue wires/ Good Luck

Thats ok mate. Worst to worst- I'm prepared to have a phone conversation, whilst sat in front of the wiring, for us to check on each others handiwork. Have fun

Heya Tom, This is long, but PLEASE READ CAREFULLY (And possibly twice?). And firstly, if you connected directly using the fused positive wire, CHECK THE FUSE. YOU MAY HAVE SHORTED IT. CHECK THE FUSE. CHECK THE FUSE. I'm not sure what your level of expertise is in electronics. I'm sorry if its patronising, but please tell me in precise detail (Every detail. Even what current-rated wire you used!): -Exactly what lights you have -How you wired them direct to the battery -Did you use the Halfords relay kit? -How did you ground the lights? Heres a few pointers from me: -CHECK YOU HAVE THE RIGHT WIRES ON THE RELAY CONNECTIONS. See GUIDE BELOW. -PULL BULBS OUT. Refit. -I found out the crimp connectors on the HALFORDS RELAY KIT are RUBBISH. Pull on the wires to see if they fall out!!! If they do, replace with ordinary crimps. MAKE SURE YOU USE INSULATING TAPE ON POSITIVE CONNECTIONS. -DONT use BOTH 55watt halogens! There isn't enough power generation to run them both! Use an LED replacement, and take the bulb out in the meantime! -Run a ground cable from the lights to the negative battery terminal. Use crimps to attach to the H3 spades if you need to. Use SCOTCH CLIPS in order to wire them up in parallel. Use a HIGH-CURRENT-CABLE incase you ever want to connect anything else to it via Scotch Clips. -RUN A CIRCUIT CONTINUITY TEST. If you dont have a multimeter, get one. If you do, set it to "Buzz" or to Ω . Put one probe on one side of a wire, the other on another bit to see if the current is running through. Start with 1x then run up to 1K x. Although make sure you know what you're doing if using around sensitive electrics! WIRING GUIDE. HALFORDS FAST FIT KIT RELAY. -Spade 85 must go to GROUND. Connect to battery terminal negative. I reccomend using high current wire and connecting bulb grounds to the wire using scotch clips on the way. -SPADE 87 goes to ORANGE parallel wires, which go to the POSITIVE bulb connections. (WHITE OR BLUE) -SPADE 30 goes through a fuse, and then to the POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL (IF NOT USING TWO HALOGENS, OR USING HALOGEN AND an LED, REPLACE FUSE WITH A 7.5 AMP ONE) -SPADE 86 goes though the BLUE CABLE to the YELLOW CABLE connected to the headlight (with a SCOTCH CLIP). Just incase you use a different name for a SCOTCH CLIP, like scotch lok, tap lok, etc. This is a picture of what I mean: SEND PICTURES of all connections, and MSN address, IF STILL HAVE PROBLEMS

You think that bulb was "proper pants"? That wasn't even the original! That was a halogen upgrade, which was 10x better than the original crap LOL. As I only just said above, that was a halogen upgrade. Probably what they did to yours!! Cheers Guys.

Thanks, git. (Wow, that sounds bad...) I hope this helps people lots

I've seen one or two new riders come onto the site with YBR 125s, and they usually have a problem with the RUBBISH lighting. It's a pain, and it's DANGEROUS. I've tried everything, halogen upgrades (instead of the rubbish incandescence factory fitted rubbish), xenons, LEDs, al to no REAL avail. Halogens/Xenons are better, but you can still only see a few meters. I've recently fitted some H3 extra lights, and so I'm sharing my experience with others, so that anyone who comes to the site with a query regarding lights can consider this much safer option than standard bulbs. My New Lights I made this video for others to see what a HUGE difference it makes- as I was doubtful at first, and being £50 to get the parts for such a job (Which is lots for a student to spend on something they're doubtful about!) it is very easy to stay away from it, so I'm making the option clear- and saying it is WELL worth it- even if you don't night drive frequently. I hope this topic can stay in the forum (I think they're called stickies?), as I would have really liked a video like this when I first starting riding, and people do still ask about it!

How many Amps can I pull for a set of extra lights for my YBR 125 custom. I'm sure anyone with experience of night driving a YBR will appreciate how utterly rubbish the lights are- even with a xenon bulb. So I'm looking at sticking some lights on the sides of the forks- but I need to know how many amps/watts I can draw. Also- I'm a good PCB electrician, but I've never used relays before. Where would I connect the relay for the extra lights? Cheers guys!!! Tommy

Btw... I got one of these just two days ago : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390160182802&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2580wt_1128 MILES better than the halogen version from Halfords. Bar ends- I got a YBR custom- and I got some new chrome bar ends. Much nicer than the plastic crap. Factory tyres are shite. Better off with some Michelin Pilots, by far. Especially if you're a new rider! Perhaps put the original chinese ones back on in the summer? I'll get back to you at some point! I'm still finding out myself! (Been through four different bulbs testing!) Cheers, Tommy Andrew James Stanton-Cole

Ooops...just posted a joke already replied about! :S Rofl

Does anyone know a bulb which is SAFE and BRIGHTER than the crappy bulb you get given from the factory? I did a 150 miles in pitch black the other day on B roads...took me FOUR HOURS!? -- Basically cause I kept nearly hitting corners...and once a lorry coming around one! Cheers, guys.