Philosafa

its two years later and funnily i came across this post, was reading the answer and realized it was me! lol just wanted to add, that although synthetic is superior to mineral, on some bikes with a wet clutch, it can make/help the clutch to slip under power. semi-synthetic is sometimes the answer

i desperately need to find the correct carb for my 95 RXS 100, it has to be correct as there are many MIKINI VM carbs that are very similar!! could anyone help thanks philo

ridable? mabyeish, safe? defanatly not, but i gota get to work, so ill have to take it easy. look at this http://www.pjmotorsports.com/Jets%20Pics/tms_tmxearly_exploded.jpg its like a smaller brass version of number 10 not a hex shape on the end, you use a philips to unscrew it theres a possability i could het a carb from 125 4stroke crosser, what do you think?

wel i havent found it, il have another look tomoro in the daylight, all i got is a wind up torch!!! its not been my week i tell ya! i talked to my next door neighbor and he found a screw that fits nicely, so i folded the drain tube up with a cable tie, and ive bin checking it frequently it seems to be holding, but it will never pass and MOT again with that! im gona have to buy another carb i think, which i realy didnt want to. im still paying threw the teeth for the moped i had (it was a cheap chinese import, need i say anymore?), and machanic bils and im ment to be saving to go to oz with my GF. luckily i just found som cheap carbs on ebay, £55, still a kick in the teeth though!

its louis, u? just went up the road to find the screw no luck

i feel the same, im really exited that i got it fixed and better performance, but mega pissed i lost that f***ing screw!!! i wana go for a ride so bad!!!! do you think petrol will react with the blue tak, or like filler or somthing that i could put in for now just to block it?

hey guys!!!! fixed the problem by squirting wd down thefeul spigot and blowing as hard as i possibly could down there and it seemed to work!!! but know i have a much, much, MUCH bigger problem.......... ive lost the drain screw, for them few secons that it was running it was amazing, all that carb and exhaust cleaning gave the bike new power and quicker responce, almost threw me off wheel spinning in second gear!!! but in my haste i forgot to screw in the drain properly and now its in the road somwhere!!!! can you just plug it up like with blue tak or sumfin?

just another quick question, the hole/port that the fuel goes into 1st, does that come out the float jet thingy? coz i found alot of grit in the float part the 1st time i cleaned it, could be another big bit i didnt get? what you just said would make definate sense? also just ad a look at you DT. veeeryy nice! wicked condition for its age, i used to live not far from you, alveston derby. and my dad had a naked 1100 goldwing, he chopped it, bull horn handlebars, matalic blue all over, nothing but chrome pipes for the exhaust (you could hear him about 5 miles away!). i think that was what made me into a biker at heart we built it together, well i say together i was like 11/12 at the time so mostly him but you get the jist, he's go a hayaboosa now scary as hell!!! he grew up in peartree in derby! anyways im babaling on. thanks for all your help m8!

yea thats rite! first take off is fine, maybe because the bowl is full when its left to stand then it can only fill back up at a certain speed? maybe we've got somthing here!? its dark now, and no good lighting outside, and its bloody freezing so ill wd40 everything up 2mz morning and jam some copper wire and squirt some wd down the hole/port we talked about aswel and write back after ive done that.

just tried that, no different. but i have noticed somthing. when the bike is left to stand for a little bit when its not running, i set off and its asif the bike is back to normal up to 6/7k then i change gear and it then drops off and starts spluttering again, and if i come to a stop, gearing down properly i get down to gear one with the clutch all the way in it cuts out. but i start it again and it idles fine??? head scratcher??? do you reckon theres a blockage in the tap? how would you find out or clear that? i drained the tank in less then a minute so i assumed that was faster then the bike could drink it?

oh, i know what you mean now, no i only have one tube coming from the tap, it goes strait to the carb, actualy doesnt have a filter!! gota get one desperate. theres three switces on my tap - reserve/off/on so i dont think the problem lies there, when i emptied the tank i blew up the tube into the tank through both the on and reserve positions to clear out any debre from the tap and fuel line.

erm i dont think so, there isnt anything in the haynes? there is fuel in the carb bowl everytime i look, even afer i ran it dry to clear the tank of old fuel.??? how would you switch to prime?

i only ever use synthetic, despite having to pay extra for it, you can get it from £8 to £15 depending where you get it from. Mineral oil is derived from crude oil and synthetic oil is not. Since mineral oil is an oil 'distillate' it tends to be less stable when exposed to high heat than synthetic oil. Many people are not aware that much of our synthetic oil technology is from WW2 Nazi technology. As a rule synthetic oil is superior to crude based oil and is specifically required in many high performance and high load/friction engines. fully synthetic here check this out http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/RXS_100/95-97/picture/2_Stroke_Oil_-_Fully_Synthetic_-_Vision_-_ONE_Litre/ you can get everything you need from wemoto or ebay philo

omg yes it been wet, i live in cornwall, rite at the arse end of the country where we get sea wind and moisture constantly!! riding in terrental quite alot, but when this 1st started it wasnt raining, ok ill spray everything and see what happens n let ya know

its a 95 w reg, i took apart every part of the carb that you can, main jet, air jet etc, till all that was left was the aluminum main part of the carb. and soked the lot in distilled vinigar, re-tuned it when i put together acording to the Haynes manual i brought last week. and i bought a new spark plug 2day, threw the old one coz it was black and oily. i think that answers everyones questions. the problem with the haynes is, im not a mechanic so quite alot of the electrical stuf is gobledegook to me by the way thanks for everyones help!!!!

ok, soaked carb for about 3 hours in vinagar, soaked exhaust for about 4 hours in soda, cot some copper wire, pocked and proded, and still no difference!!! even cut down my ht lead a little bit and reconnected, brand new sparky, drained tank, put fresh petrol in, and still no difference. im getting really stressed i gota go back to work in 4 days and i got no transport. any other ideas? im pretty sure its not blockages, though i will hace another go at cleaning the exaust. electrics maybe? isit possible that the ignition coil can go just like that, would i get any spark atal if it did go im lost!!!

all the bulbs are as i got them when i bought it??? will check 2morro tho. horn defanatly works, used it the other day when some blind old bat cut me up and nearly had me in her back window!!!! lol wel i havent ever checked the battery myself, ordered a new one the other day from my local mach, in the hope that will fix the stupidly dim lights! i leave my dipped beam on constantly for better vis "be seen be safe". should i not do that? would the wrong watt bulb cause the dodjy flashing times and not working atal? do you think it could be water in my electrics somewhere? thanks for help guys oh mines a 95 w reg

sorry i wasnt clear lol first they would flash fast, then slow, then just glow and not fash atal, somtimes all of that in one go! then! i would have to gear down to get them to work, and now absolutly nothing atal, having to rely on hand signals when the roads are busy. cheers

hi there how do you check/change the float hight and clip position?

thank god i asked i was gona just do it !!! lol im looking to buy some redex aswell isit ok in 2t engines? and more importanly worth my time and money?

thanks cynic, didnt think about copper wire, do you think it would be ok to soak the carb in caustic soda? im gona get some tomoro to do my zaust propa and if it doesnt harm the main part of the carb (gonna take all the pins and jets out 1st) i mite aswell do it at the same time. before you posted back, i had another go at cleaning the carb and shaking the coke out of the zaust and this time got up to 6k for 2 secs the went back to the same as before, then i tried a little rip down the lane without the baffle to see if i get different symtom, verdict: a little bit more "go" but the absolutly defoning lots of old people near to where i live, the old dears walking past giving me propa evils haha, i mite do it for fun every now and then. does this sound like its blockages to you or electrical, im still paying a machanic for my last bike (chinese moped worst experience of my life!)so i cant afford to start paying a machanic again. thanks soo much

hey ive not bought my RXS100, its a beast!! now, yesterday it was running the best it has done for a while, then i ran out of petrol, switched over to the reserve tank, was still running fine, filled it up at the petrol station, switched it back over to the main tank and continued to ride home. then it started splutering and wouldnt rev atal although it would start and idle absolutly fine just as soon as i pulled the throttle the tiniest bit it would cut out. so i cleaned out the carb, found a little bit of muck but no varnish. even swilled out the exhaust a little bit with some petrol. got it running again, idles fine will now rev to 6k in neutral but when its riding in whatever gear gets to 3-4k and just starts sputering and coughing and back firing. got a 2 week old iridium plug in so that should be fine, its sunday so cant get another on yet. anyone got any ideas?? thanks

am i being really dumb? what does this mean coz i got the simalar problem, no indicators atall infact, and oviously need them!!! cheers