2 Wheels

Failte; to the YOC

Failte: to the YOC, bigste

Consider it done mate ! 3 pints of the black stuff.

Handy little tool !!! I could make that in ten mins outa steel

Now this is getting a bit technical for me ! The only thing I know about the squish band is that if it is not set at the right gap then you use a lot more fuel. Changing the head gasket to a thinner one can change the band gap and produce different performance. (race bikers do this) but I think there is more to it than this. That 3BN head does look strange now that you have showen the two pic's. Wonder why has it got that hollow squish ? wouldnt it be better with the sloped one ? You will definatly have to tell us about any change in performance when the time comes that you change the head. please!

Yes to taking the carb out, you have so much messing and moveing to do with the air box its not funny. Again i will follow your lead to the up jetting but dont know bout the reeds just yet. Did you know there is still no MOT for bikes in this country yet. So becaue of this I am going to keep my origional silencer but just gut it out to the bare min without leaving it screaming. Why about the cylinder head change, Am i missing something on this one ? Ps. Before anyone says anything about MOT here, YES i do keep my bikes in tip top shape all the time and dont ride them if i suspect anything wrong!!!!

Yea, wasnt using it much so pacience for so long. Yep sounds good. I did pull off the snorkal to for a we try but then i put it back on again, bit to noisey for me but i might cut it in half (ie. the lenght) to give half the efect. Will be good now to see what the rest of the mods do for it.

Ok lastnite i had a look at my bike. It was in the fully restricted state, so today i got to work on it. Cut out the restriction tube in the downpipe. Then corrected the power valve. I didnt remove the reed switch yet just to see what happens. Then went for a spin. Much better ! The revs no longer restrict at-all and it will now go all the way to the red-line. The bike was restricting at 85km/h and now I have managed to do 65 mph. (110km/h) The roads wher i live are quite twisty and full of tight courners so this is the most i could push the speed without being dangerous. The bike will quite happily sit at 60 mph and doesnt seem to be under to much pressure. I'd say on a straight road it would do alot more. So Oldgit, on this model it does appear that the reed switch is not functional. Although i cant be sure cause i didnt have road to push it further. Anyway thats what i've done so far and that is the performance so far.

Is it wetting the plugs now with the choke on ?? Me thinks you are gona have to set up the carb from scratch again. Read the haynes for this and follow it exact. Make sure you clean the tiny little holes in the carb that are for the starting of the bike.(starting jets that aernt removable). Make sure you are not drawing air in anywhere that it isnt supposed to be (eg round pipes and the carb itself)

For a start, that brake fluid is shaged! By right brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. Very impotant to have brakes so if I was you I would strip own the calipers and make sure all is ok with them and working properly. Then rebuild them, then flush out that shitty fluid and replace with new. If they are still mushy after this then you can check out the master cylinder.

Nice we trip there Mark. Pitty bout the sore arse though, it is a prob on smaller bikes. Paded shorts that the cylcist ware---- i wonder might they help!

Yea our roads have changed to kms. Now you have me thinking about this limiter. Even under 85km/h it still will not pass 7500rpm. Even in neutral it still wont go past this. Edit: What I was hopeing is that with this reed switch gone then it might tell the CDI something else and that in turn would give us full revs. But since it is only on the speedo then I see what you are saying. So our bikes must/might have a rev counter limiter fitted also or maby this is the way these bikes are restricted and not in the speedo. This will need further investigation so I might have a poke arround at this over the weekend.

Well then, if we have the same bike Oldgit, you did do the right thing by removeing this reed switch. My bike will not go over 7300 - 7500rpm. My speedo is in km/h and once you hit 85 km/h then thats it, you can go no faster ! With this reed switch out ( I know you cant try it yet ) you should be able to red-line the rev counter. Seems willing enough though -------- sounds good to me ! How do you know your bike is French ? is mine French ? Regarding your headlight ; on mine I have a screw at the top left for up and down adjustment and a screw at the bottom right for left and right adjustment.

"I dinna can we ya sayin" good buddy 10-4

These sort of video's should be on the TV more often ----- Rather than the stupid shit adds they show

Yes that is one good option. Three of them are spraying propper but one of them is only spraying some of the time. So whatever has got into the one on the last cylinder must still be fairly loose as it workes sometimes. I wonder how could i get it out without causing any damage. eg. maby soak it in petrol for a while.

Have any of you got any DIY tips on how to clean Injectors in a diesel engine ? Apart from the stuff you mix with the diesel as a cleaning agent. I was thinking more of backward flushing them ! Any thaughts ?

It is not normal but it is not a prob to the running of the bike, it will annoy you though if for some reason you have the fuel pipe off the tap. When you get the gasket go for a spin and hopefully you will be

It is restricted like that so you dont blow the engine. OR are you saying the bike wont rev at all now ?

On my bikes I have wires coming from the + and - of the battery to a little conector block, it is neetly tucked away and cable tied in place so that whenever a bike is not being used i can just plug it in for 5 hours at a time once a week. This keeps the battery in propper order and helpes it to last longer. Take a reading of the battery with the bike started, Then take a reading with the bike reved up, this reading should be more than the first. This will tell you if your bike charging system is working ok.

Nice pic's there, some great scenery, the DT is looking well ! Bet you enjoyed that ! Was a lovely day here to, nice and sunny but very cold. Do a couple of trips like that and you will have brake in miles covered in no time

If it starts and idels fine then your carb is set up right for all the low idel stuff. You now need the gasket before you go trying to sort out the carb for the high speed stuff. Im gona take a "wild guess" and say that it might be your HT lead to the plug, sometimes if its old or damaged it can perform ok at low and idel revs but will short out when the engine is driven hard or at high revs. I am taking it that you have done all the usual checks ! Good battery Right plug good air filter propper fuel flow to the carb etc etc...

Himmm, I think she comes to me in my dreams

Yes you need the missing gasket off the floot bool. There not dear of any good bike garage. Does the bike run propper for that first mile or so?

I have looked at my carb, there are no markings on mine either only the name Mikuni. My engine no starts with 4BL......... My frame no starts with JYA4BL.......... On the left side of my piston barel there is 3MBOO stamped. I talked to a mate of mine and he said that the standerd main jet changed from 210 to 240 from the year 1999 onwards. So maby you are right Oldgit When I had my carb off for cleaning ages ago I prob did look at main size but for the life of me I cant remember what the hell it was.