2 Wheels

You are correct--- oil is up the front right ! If you havent put too much oil in the coolant tank then drain the rad and the coolant tank and reflush the system with fresh clean water about 5 or 6 times. Then on the last drain refill with new coolant. How much oil went into the coolant tank ?

To check clutch drag--- get the bike started, then get the back wheel off the ground, select 1st gear but dont let the clutch out. If the back wheel sparts to spin slowely or even makes an attempt to spin then you have clutch drag. Im pretty sure you have a reed valve on that bike. If the bike will bump start and runs good then dont go messing with the reeds or the carb unless you really have to. If you suspect you have an air leak then look for split or damaged pipes arround the carb and the reed assembly, spray wd40 round them and listen to the engine, if it starts to idle better then you have an air leak. Is it the not starting on the button that is your only prob? Lazy starter from lack of use, spray with wd40 everywhere you can get in at it. If the bike hasnt been used for a year then your gona have a few wee probs every now and again so expect them, go for a good old spin down the road to blow off the cobwebs!! Best plan of attack to find out any probs/ or indeed cure them is to get using the bike everyday if possible !! Hope this helps

You could have something like clutch drag or the like, putting extra weight on the engine, worth checking things like that out. Does sound like the starter is not spining fast enough for fire-up. Dont know what the compression should be !

I think ill take the look of the "parallax vector" view Then take a "quantum" leap from a high bridge The "physics" of the "universe" will bring me quickly to the ground And just maby ill see "Monty Python" on my way down.

Ta mate

Thanks Paul for the advice, Unfortunatly for me, i did not wait for a reply and i sanded down 3 of the spokes till they were shining bright. I take it these will now rust and be usless, What a domb-ass am I

As you may know, im not realy one for cleaning me bikes ! But now i want to learn ! I have cleaned the wire spokes in my wheels but there still not shiney. There is a sort of dull corosion on them. So my question is this: If i sand them down lightly till there shiney will i damage them and make them rust? and if i can sand them down do i then have to seal them or something? and seal them with what? Many thanks if you fine peps can help !

Horney little boys ! Thats a cunning plan they have came up with

Aye, OG An extra 10psi thats gotta be good/better. So she is still running sweet, eh ? Good job !

Well then, It was my drive sproket seal that was gone and yes this is an easy fix. Are you talking about the seal that is on the gear changing shaft----- if so this is not as easy a fix. Are you sure the oil is comming from here and that its not just dripping down from the drive sproket ? Anyway, to change the gear changing shaft seal, you are talking about doing the following; drain the gearbox oil take off the right hand crankcase cover to gain axcess to the other end of the shaft this is where it gets a bit messy, i am only 90% sure from here on in. you have some dismanteling to do to get o the end of the shaft, take care as there are springs and things there that will shot off on you, once you can see the shaft you have to disconect (hold) the selector shaft some how from droping out of position (tricky) then it is just a matter of pulling out the gearchanging shaft from the other side. replace the seal and back in again. It wont be as easy as it sounds. This is an unusual seal to fail so ther might be underlying probs with woren selector gear parts and ends. On a lighter note,, if it is not dripping to bad and you havent been using the bike then--- starp her up, go for a spin and just maby the heat of the engine might tighten up the seal again for you. Hope this helps with your decision on what to do!!!

Soak a small towl in boiling water from the kettle, spray wd40 on the piston, wram the caliper in the towl and leave for a while till towl starts to get cold, the hot towl will expand the caliper the wd40 will make its way into and arround the piston, then pump out the piston with the brake leaver, Dont burn your hands.

A yes, indeed i do but, as it is getting rough arround the edges, just passed 60,000miles and is a 98 bike with a bit of tidying up to do on it(im not realy one for washing me bike)----- i am thinking into the distance of when the time comes to change to a newer model, if my lil dt will get me passed for the time it takes me to source another bike ! And then, o what, o what, o what will i go for next !!!

Aye blackhat, hows it going !! You reckon it is up to the job. Think i have mixture setup right although the 2stroke oil does seem to drop a bit quick, but better that way than not enough, eha! Didnt know that putting to res would lean out a stroker ---- learn somethin new everyday.----- cheres for that !!! Hey OG, what you think, you dont sound convinced that no harm will come to it ?

Evening all, Just a quick question for all you DT fans ! I'd like to know what you think of doing a steady 60mph for about an hour or so on a dt125 (my lil bike) Do you think i will be killing my lil engine ? I'd like to think not but im not sure ! What ya think.

Thats the spirit Chris ! With your exhaust newly painted it will cure better if it is slowely heated- so when you have it all painted up go for short spins till the exhaust is hot to toutch, then let it cool for a while. repeat doing this rather than going for 1 long drive ! Thats what i would do under your circumstances anyway.

Welcome Tom to the YOC You have now joined the rest of us in the mad house ! Have you done anything to the air box or the exhaust ??? Sounds like a main jet or power jet pipe is blocked.

Looks like he is making a good job ! Will it be heavy ?

I think that's a fine bit of leg, is it that you want to change it to a different model !!! Bike look in good shape

Failte; to the YOC Christofeser and of course to bikeing----- youll be glad ya started !!!

You need to give the drum a full service and a good cleaning. This is not something you should be doing half-heartitly. You dont want your rear wheel to lock up for any reason specialy if your yraveling at speed. When you service the drum properly, put everything back togeather apart from adjusting the brake. Get the chain to the correct tension, make sure the wheel spins freely, then stars to adjust the brake.

mad r wat bet his tank is all scraped when he gets wherever

Me to, tis cool job