2 Wheels

Really dont think it could be suffering from heat. There is an underlying problem starting with it. Are all the carb settings good. Correct plug/ heat range EDIT: fuel cap isn't blocked or something like that. Start with all the simple stuff first. Does it runn propper when you finaly get her going? EDIT 2: sorry its a fuel injected isnt it. Try all the silly stuff like air filter, etc. blow out your fuel cap venting or even better try to start it with the fuel cap off, see what happens. me advise is a little short as im having a few bottles of brew.

But, re-jetting the carb wont do anything (only upset the enging) unless you give it more air on the intake and more room for the said air to excape, (free flowing exhaust) Me thinks 3 teeth up is alot for the front sproket, i would only go 1 tooth or max 2 teeth. 3 teeth up is like taking 1/3rd away from the power of the engine. Thats just me thaughts on it.

I hate that Redex crap. Was nothing else damaged in your accident? If black stuff came out of your exhaust then maby that crap Redex did work a little. If it did then you probably have a more free flowing exhaust so now you will probably have to re-adjust the throttle stop and the air mixture screw.

MY God, England better do better than that muppet. He's the kinda fella i would like to kick arround the bar till i was thirsty for another pint !

Happy birthday to the YOC Boss,

Tonto and the Loan-Ranger are on horse-back, crossing the outback plains, As they are going along they can see nothing for miles only a few trees, Then out of the blue, Tonto stops, So then does the Loan-Ranger, "Whats up", says the Loan-Ranger, Tonto just says "sushhhhhh, be quiet", A few minuets go by, then suddenly Tonto jumps down from his horse, drops to his hands and knees, puts his ear down to the ground and starts to listen, "Buffalo Cum", he says, The Loan-Ranger looks arround but cant see any buffalo anywhere, "how the hell do you know that" he says, Tonto rises from his knees, puts his hand against his face and says, "Face Sticky".

Failte Mat to the YOC. What do you mean by your question? Are the metal clips (anti rattle shims) very rusted or something? They just pop out.

God dam there a shower of tossers. + i edited my last post

If she admitted liability at the sceen then the coppers will have this in thee report. Get it off them and show it to your insurance. dont give it to them. I was allways told to Never admit it was your fault (even if it was). Its up to the cops to deceide what happened and up to the insurance companies to battle it out after that. I herd of that pay in lieu before but dont understand it. Ok so you axcepted a cheque, but that doesnt mean you have admitted it was your fault. Seeing as it was not your fault, ---- under no surcomestances should you give in and admit that it was. That old lady could hammer you with hospotal bills and the like. Go and see your old solisitor, tell him the story, ask him to be honest and ask where do you stand with it all now.

Nope, sorry but the highlight thing doesnt work. There is no Robbies pictures. See FAQ.

Oups, sorry there tastyturbo, I miss understood. In that case: Enjoy clocking up the miles in this nice weather.

New rubber Find out whats making it handle poorley. Whats happening to it?

Failte newbie from Scotland Get your test done, you wont be sorry

Just a quick thaught, Come to Ireland, pick either the top or bottom of it, take the coast roads and you will see some of the most amazing scenery, and if its twisty roads your after then i can safely say your bike will not be up straight for more than the time it takes to say this == ( There is a tight turn comming my way, get ready ) Tis much like the scotish roads. EDIT: top of Ireland round the coast roads has the best scenery.

Its beside the garage at the top of the thingy. It was working earlier !

Someone go into the chat room to see if it is working !!!

That's a cracker of a bike Cynic. Looks really well Love the twin exhausts What I like about this bike is the situp straight riding position, nice and comfy, and of course the rest of it ----- the stroker sound, the style, the height, light strong frame along with its excelent torque engine, just the look of this bike does it for me. I bet it is on a par with the teneree 660. Now can ya imagine, a top box, two side panniers, a rolled up ground mat and tent, a full tank and a long twisty road ahead of you with no destination. Now just hit 1st, pop the clutch, twist back the revs and ..... ...... .... ...... .... ..... do remember to come back and tell us how it all went !

So, you are saying that, with the nipple closed and you pump the brake leaver 4 times there is no resistance at all ? Top up with Dot4 brake fluid and put the cover back on over the resivoir. Keep the nipple closed. Pump the brake leaver a few times, there should be a slight bit of resistance on it after this. Then on the last time you pump the leaver you need to hold it on (front brake on). While you have it held on you need to slowly open the bleed nipple at the same time. Oil will flow out and hopefully some bubbles along with it. BUT as this is happening the leaver is traveling in all the time, so before it gets all the way in (toutches the handlebar) You need to close the bleed nipple. Then with the bleed nipple still closed start pumping the brake leaver again and repeat the process all over again till there is no more bubbles coming out with the brake fluid. If the resivior at the handlebar ever ran low or dry this process could take up to 10 times to get the last bit of air out of the system.

Leave the caliper conected to the brake line but take the caliper off the bike. Boil the kettle Get a towl and put it in the sink pour the water from the kettle into sink soaking the towl Get gloves and bring the roasting towl out and wrap it arround the caliper leave it wrapper on there and boil the kettle again before the towl starts to cool down pour the hot water from kettle on it again anytime now you can start to pump the brake leaver hard and this should eventualy push out the piston What you are trying to do is heat up the calliper quickely without heating he piston, This should give you enough room to free the piston Good luck. There are other methods also but if ya dont have any tools then this is your best bet.

Close the bleed nipple Pump the brake leaver 3 times and then on the 4th time you need to hold the brake leaver in while opening the bleed nipple at the same time. You then have to close the bleed nipple before the brake leaver gets to the fully in position. Repeat this a few times till you see nothing but pure brake-fluid comming out of the nipple. Dont let the resivoir on the handlebars drop below the min fluid mark or you will have to start again. Thats all there is to bleeding the brake so if this doesnt work then there might be something up with your caliper. Hope this gets ya sorted.

Have ya got any pics of her, even though ya propably posted them on here before. Sounds like a sweet bike to ride.

Sounds good Paul. Do you have some clutch drag going on there ? Tis a lovely, well kept bike.

God Dam, that look good

If your engine number startes with 4BL then the reed switch is not functional, so you may as well put it back in. Your exhaust must be restricted by either big washers in it or a small cone in it. Remove whichever one it is and you will then have more revs. Put the snorkel back on the air box or the bike will splutter at full throttle unless you are going to rejet. What is your engine number ? You have read Oldgitonabike's post on Derestricting My DT 125r ---- havent you ?