2 Wheels

Of course we care,,,,, congrats on passing test. Get a manual for your bike, will show you all the care you need to give it. Welcome to the YOC

Yep, ordinary chain is fine.

Well done sir. Dont forget to retighten head nuts after a while,,,, and again dont go swinging outa them.

Its common talk up this way that they are not as good a bike as the fazer you have. That said some people rather them than the older fazer.

I use,,,,,Silkolene 10w40 semi synthetic Did you adjust the clutch with the screw and locknut correctly,,,,,, then adjust it up at the handlebar

This information is correct for the DTR up to the year 03. After that they may of changed but i dout it. To buy origional Yamaha Rear caliper seal's only------ here is the part number 4ML-W0047-00 There is an inner and an outer seal. The origional rear piston is a really hard plastic. Good idea as it doesnt get pitted, scraped or damaged. Its better to keep this piston rather than buy a stainless steel Heavy aftermarket part.

Andy, is this information for your 1998 DT125R ??? Pat

Boilling hot water on the bearing then try pull it off quickly with something. The boilling water heats the bearing first and expands it first before the heat reaches the crank,,,,, well thats whats supposed to happen.

no no no no no

I have a pair of cycling gloves padded on the palms with no fingers for the roasting hot summer months we get. There red an black (same as bike) and there great for when ya want ta pick your nose.

I would also call the "spindle" an axle

Beef,,,,,, good advise and discription there-------- fair play to ya. I wouldnt reuse any brake fluid. Brake fluid starts to absorbs moister once the bottle is open, so for the sake of it prob better to keep buying new stuff.

Looks good John. Where ya get that compressor sand blaster ?

yea they come apart. ya just need the front part. have you seen this part so,,,,, is it in bad shape. dont panic 2 much,,, your bike will be good again.

Mabey ware and tear or someone dicking arround overtightening it. How many miles is on this bike ?? Expensive,,yes but you need it. I cant say that your clutch is ok yet, but this part WILL be locking up and not letting your push-rod to the clutch disingage fully. yes its keeping clutch pulled a bit if it wont let it release. take cover off and see can it be changed from this side. drop oil to correct level put on new housing adjust screw,,,tighten locknut,,,, set free-play at bars Then its a case of hoping its sorted. Hard to turn back wheel and hard to pull in clutch leaver is all a good sign of clutch being ok. But thats the things with bikes,,,,,, there not fixed till there fixed right. Let us know whats the story behind sprocket cover.

We want pick of blow up doll too

Too much oil is bad,,,, puts extra pressure on everything,,,, should be half way on sight glass but not more that the dot full mark. To chek oil level,,start bike, let warm up, stop bike, wait 5 mins then sheck level at sight glass. sometimes ya have to lean bike left and right to get correct level. You couldnt move screw cause you had cable adjusted up at handlebars,,,,, anyway doesnt matter now. Behind the nut and screw there is a housing with ball bearings in it,, this is what is shaged on your bike. It lets the clutch swivel in action as you pull in the clutch leaver. The bits of metal you can see is prob the springy cuped washer that is fooked. The hole housing comes in one unit and is number 20 on this picture. For the life of me, i cant remember if ya can just change this from this side of the bike/clutch,,,,,, i think ya can but just not sure !!! Anyway take off this cover that coveres the front sproket, after you loosen the clutch cable at handlebars. Take care not to damage the gasket----you can use it again---its not sealing in oil or anything like that. You will see straight away wheather this housing can be changed from this side or not. Again i think it can or hope it can,,,,,, because if it cant it means the hole clutch assembly has to come out and apart. So take cover off to see. http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-yzf600rmrmc-2000_model10892/partslist/C-06.html#results

At least she fires up and you know she will be a good-en. Just sort out the small bits,,,,,,,,,, the ones that cost the most

DT has answered ya but ill just say the same. Ok about the sliping clutch,,,,even though you started this topic about not being able to select gears going up through the box. Might be related anyway. 10w40 is the corect oil BUT it has to have the letters JASO wrote on the container,,,, if it doesnt then your clutch will slip regardless. 3--4mm free play at leaver end,,,, this is important so your clutch can release fully. Here is leaver free play So to get you back on the right track,,,,,,, right kind of oil right amount of oil right amount of free play,,,,,leaver end. In normal circumstances this should sort it out for you. Providing the clutch hasnt been sliping much and caused the plates to Blue. However if it doesnt do these checks next. Back wheel off the ground,, bike not started,, select 1st gear,,,you should be able to grab the back tyre and barely turn it forward. What you are doing is turning the engine over against its own compression. If you can turn your tyre fairly easily then your clutch plates might well be woren. Next,,, try pulling in the clutch leaver with just your middle finger,,, you should be able to do it but again it should be a struggle. You shouldnt be able to pull it in with your baby finger alone. If you can then your springs that push the pressure plate are week or mabey one broken. Now back to adjusting clutch further,,, should right oil and free play not fix things. Where the clutch cable enteres the side casing at the bottom,,,,,well just below this there is a rubber cover. Pull it out,,, behind it there is a locknut and a screw. First fully slacken the cable at the leaver end. Then loosen the locknut,,,then unscrew the screw a few turns. Then tighten in the screw slowly untill you start to feel pressure,,,when you do fell pressure loosen the screw again by 1/8 turn and tighten the locknut,,,,,,rubber cover back on. Back up to leaver and set free play. If all this does not sort out your slipping clutch then you will have to open her up for a look and see whats happening. None of this is hard to do,,,,, just a bit of patience needed when sorting out the plates. By the way you should be able to go up and down all the gears with the bike not started and back wheel off the ground without any probs.

Dont do anything or buy anything yet. Am going ta bed now and work in the mornin, but after that ill chat to ya and you can do some checks before ya start anything. Ya mightened need a clutch at all yet.

Washing-up liquid

Dont think about it Grouch'O Just start doing it

We have the exact same here. Ya can smell spring in the air, mornin and evenin

Hello Mr ex-soldier,,,,,,,,, why are you getting yourself in a huff ??? Have you got a short fuse or something ??? We could all be like that you know, if we wanted !!! I think i know what is wrong with your starter,,,,,,,,, do you want help???

Grouch'o For 200 odd more you could buy this Why dont ya tell garage ya have no money at the min and you want your bike back. You'll have it fixed in no time at all. Seriously dude !!!