Speedshop

Its possible for one switch to do both - however you should always have a seperate kill switch in case of a stuck throttle or other emergency when you need to shut the engine off pdq

What you are proposing with the flywheel will be dangerous, ensure you run a cover capable of containing it when it explodes. If the engine isn't reving past 2500 you've either not set up the cam timing or carburation OR the advance section of the ignition has packed up. I'm not familiar with that engine, but if its a 2 valve single it won't need a fancy advance curve, but it will benefit from advancing it earlier but keeping the same start point to give good starting.

OK, I manufacture CDi units and see this problem with the SR500 quite regularly. With the SR there are several similar CDi boxes, but chose the wrong one and it will over heat the engine to the point where the header pipe glows red. The wrong generator can also cause this as well. If someone has fitted an incorrect cdi unit, this could be causing your problem. The manufacturers go to great lengths to stop one box working on bikes it is not intended for. Please confirm the year model and market of sale of your bike please confirm either the yamaha or ND part number of the cdi box required (the correct one, not what is fitted) please confirm the numbers stamped into the generator flywheel (IE 032000-xxxx) I don't have much info on this model but will try and help if I can, it looks as if it could be similar to the SR250

If the idle adjusters are backed right out you most certainly have issues as per my original post. There will be an adjuster that allows the carbs to be sync'd up with each other (this is how its done with twin carbs/single throttle cable). Its normally between the two carbs. In your case it sounds like its this that has been mis-adjusted and is holding one carb open to the point where the engine idles on on cylinder only.

Points: sounds like the points gap has altered after running the engine: recheck and set it to the mid point of the limits. carbs: sounds like a conflict with the cable tension/idle adjustment/carb sync adjustment - maybe with some finger trouble on the owner's part thrown in. Don't try and rush these jobs - if you haven't got enough time - leave them - it will be the same when you return to it!

People are too quick to slag off companies, also without allowing the company to put its side of the story. Perhaps next time you'll ask if the item is in stock before ordering!

LEDS are all good in my book. Last longer, not as easy to damage and use less power. A well designed unit will be visable at different angles.

You need to pay close attention to wire colours - I've often got a wire thats a similiar colour in the wrong slot. Watch out for dark brown wires being put in black connectors. Black is earth!

Check the wiring inside the headlamp and if you don't find your problem there, the wiring in the handlebar switch gear.

Brushes and clean up the commutator will sort 90% of starter motor faults

First find a specialist, not just some prepared to work on it! Secondly if you are spending that money on it, keep it orginal, a customised machine is worth far less then an orginal one

Antifreeze in the exhaust - head gasket?

hi Earth leads are coloured black on Yamahas. I would check them all around the headlamp, also all the handlebar switch wires. However if this doesn't fix the problem I'd look at the voltage regulator.

Its not the battery that runs the bike, its the generator. The battery is only there to start the engine and act as something for the generator to work against when the load on the system is minimal. I really don't see what you are attempting to achieve. Do you know yourself? What you are suggesting will vastly complicate the system. The only time you need different voltages would be to run computers that have very specific voltage requirements. Any vehicle based computer will have its own internal power supply to remain compatible with the normal 12 volt systems. All the instruments on the market are designed to run on 12 volts so they won't work on a different volatage supply. The only thing I can see is that you are trying to do is create a circuit purely to run an all LED lighting system. Again, by the time you've costed out buying a bike set of 12volt LED bulbs, compared to the parts to build a power supply unit, wiring and all the fiddling about you won't be saving anything.

Sounds like a switch problem to me - the computer's getting the inputs and doing its thing, just not at the right time.

Seems like a lot of trouble for no benefit what so ever. You can get LED head lamps, but they use a lot of power and the drivers are heavy. You'd be better off fitting HID head lamp which uses half the power of a standard bulb.

is the brake plate located in the fork pin correctly?

There is cheap and there is good. Make your choice. Aerocoat in Yarmouth are good for powder coating.

The standard tyre is too big for the rim as it is. I'd say that monster tyre would look very pinched on such a narrow rim. A 2,50 rim is the standard size rim for that tyre, The 1.60 isn't anywhere near an acceptable alternative for that size of tyre.

Hello, nice of you to introduce yourself. Take your caps lock off ole sport, people might be more inclined to answer if you say hello and write in normal lower case.

I bet a vice and a hammer would sort it, or if you want to be really posh a slide hammer

Its wrong to assume that motorcycle oil is a higher spec then car oil. It isn't. There are some differences though. Car oil has friction modifiers among other additives which you won't find in motorcycle oil as they could cause wet clutches to slip. I really wouldn't go adding anything that reduces friction to your motorcycle oil, for that reason alone. I'm sure there's going to be plenty of posts claiming that people use car oil and have suffered no ill effects or clutch problems, which might be right. Not all car oil has these friction modifiers in it though, it depends on the spec. Also the oil manufacturers are saying there COULD be problems, so to avoid any issues use use the oil designed specifically for the type of engine indended.

Its still in the rough as I've not mounted oil the oil cooler or battery but it will be shot blasted to remove 31 years of corrosion then powder coated. As the only remaining orginal parts of the bike are the frame, engine and fork stanchions I need to fully build the bike un painted to ensure it all fits together.

I can't see what's behind that bracket in the picture. I can't imagine it's doing much tho. What was bolted to it? Indicators or a grab rail? I was going to make a rear loop out of tube for my SR, but then people would think it was a XT frame so to keep them guessing I did it the way I have.

Couldn't say for sure, but one froma slightly different model might work. I really can't imagine the SR125 being so rare you wouldn't get the right one though