Speedshop

Here's a little something that works well with the moped regulator.......our 12 volt XT lighting coil. As you can see we strip the winding right down, clean it to remove rust, then its ready for the next stage. We manufacture new insulation pieces to replace the old red fibreboard that normally falls apart and after 30 years is no longer much of an insulator. The ironcore is wrapped in nomex before dual insulated H class copper wire is wound on.

It was one of those short ones that caused the problem. I read somewhere that the type of ignition fitted (DC CDi or AC Cdi) was the way to tell these apart but when I asked the supplier they hadn't got a clue. There is a version of that short unit made in Italy by IDM that seems to work. Some of the Chinese copies are different and cause problems. That is a Chinese one. We stick with the longer version of that as we've not had a problem with these. Theres a lot of info on the GY6 moped forums as they have as many problems getting the wrong regulator and frying their electrics. http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Products/RR12V-1

Black soot on the plug is carbon, which will short the electrode out. Your problem is more to do with fuel mixture more then the plugs. As mentioned above, cleaning the plug will restore it but you need to get to the real cause of the problem and check the carburation.

Have you got a picture of how it should be - that would be a handy reference

If its the model with a great big starter generator on it the ignition is from the battery, so you'll need a good charge in it to start it. I've got one of these in for rewind at the moment - here's me testing the armature of one on our growler

We have The correct type CDi coil for your bike in stock BTW cdi works at 200 volts, don't test it with your tongue http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Products/HTC8

It was probably put in the barn due to no spark. There is often a few un used plugs on these, if you have indicator relay, cdi, regulator thats pretty much it

The best way to get brighter lights is to fit head lamp relays. You lose power through the handle bar switches which causes dim lights, cleaning works for a while, but the only fix is a relay.

Lithium-Ion = expensive, problems with fitting and possible charging issues. Is better how? Go with the AGM, proven, reliable cost effective.

OK with regulator rectifiers you get what you pay for. Ebay is likely to be able to provide you with a nice made in China copy that will work OK, maybe. We have a 'universal' regulator is not made in the East and is very reliable, its a quality part, not £50 and is one of our best sellers. It is very robust and can dissipate much more heat then standard units. it works on any 3 phase permanent generators and is very popular with builders of specials We can supply a patch lead as well. Here's the link: http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Products/RR12V-2http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Products/RR12V-2

A word of caution with this conversion. We rewind generators and we are seeing A LOT of generators in for rewinds that have badly burnt lighting coils. 2 things seem to be constant, 1) it was an XT, DT or similar converted to 12 volts, 2) the bike had been fitted with a 55/60watt headlamp. I had 4 XT 500s and a DT generator in with toasted generator windings this week alone, all 12 volt converted. There are 2 ways to convert these bikes, the single phase method shown on the FS1 above seems to cause the most problems, the moped regulator (Neo) the least. We hardly ever got a 6 volt one in for rewind. My advice is to stay with a smaller headlamp bulb (45/45 max), use LED indicators and use a battery eliminator instead of a battery as these do not draw any current from the generator. A discharged battery can draw 6 amps on it own. Another thing to watch is there are different versions of the moped regulator, with different pin outs. One poor chap bought a new loom from us after his melted due to this. We had the right type plus a new XT loom. Just for the record both use a full wave rectifier, the moped regulator uses split AC/DC system which is the easiest to fit as the stock wiring can be left alone. With the single phase version you have to supply the light switch from the DC circuit IE chop the wiring loom. The Moped regulator clips the AC to stop the bulbs blowing. We're happy to help if you get stuck and have a selection of regulators, patch looms, connectors, bulbs, battery eliminators & batteries that fit the stock housings. In some cases we can rewind generators with more copper to give reliable 12 volt conversion

www.sr500forum.com you'll get some good advice from people who have done this before

The way we test things like this is to warm them with a hot air gun and watch to see if the resistance climbs steadily. If it faulters or fluctuates the winding is duff. That said I have a suzuki generator in that tested fine until we sun it up and ran the ignition for 10 minutes on the test bed, after this time the pulser coil broke down. If you left it and went back to it it was fine again for a few minutes. These bikes are not sensitive to minor specifaction differences in ignition coils, you really don't need NOS item, after market ones are just as good (so longs as you don't buy the cheapest made in China rubbish from ebay). An old coil could break down, but so long as you have the right type of coil it won't cause the problems you have. We design and build CDi systems and run our units on a variety of coils as we know the OEM coils are likely to have been replaced by now. In many cases the OEM coil spec isn't available and a modern equivilent coil runs equally as well. The old 1R/12K coil is good example, popular in the 70's not available now. If you know what machines that coil was fiited to and still is still fitted to you can still buy a one new from the OEM factory, guess what, it comes as 0.6R/8K and runs exactly the same as the old spec. We stock a range of coils for points and CDi machines - none of which are made in China

Maybe give me a bell at the speed shop, if we're not as busy as we have been over the past few weeks I can talk you through the CDi. 01580 880768

Failing to rev is normally an over rich mixture

any 'classic' 2 stroke timing will work fine (IE one that is nice and retarded at start up to ensure the engine starts running in the right direction. Then advances slightly, retarding back to the start point at peak power). Guess who's been been doing lots of work on a range of 2 stroke cdi systems!

Jap rims have no off set (except the RD400 rear wheel) You won't get the nipples undone, even if you did with all the other spokes tight you won't get just one spoke out very easily. Normally removing spokes involves a small pair of bolt croppers (as was the case with my SR wheel rebuild)

You won't find a 4 way regulator on the bike as standard. You'll have to modify the bike to fit this type. I'm in the process of writing a step by step guide for he XT. I think there is a guide on here for the DT

we have these on our website p/n rr12 on the regulator page. I use these for the XT 500 conversion and they work well. I can supply the connection info and plugs if required www.rexs-speedshop.com

Might be a failing source coil winding for the cdi, its a classic symptom. Pull the rotor and carefully heat it with a hot air gun and watch the resistance, if it suddenly drops or changes its faulty. It will gradually incresase with no sudden change if its ok.

sounds like its running the orignial CDi source coil, which will provide high voltage, but not provide enough current for points.

we have wiring products for motorcycles as well as the specialist knowledge from having done the actual work. Just don't phone up expecting me to walk through wiring a bike step by step. Tech advise is available to returning customers via email. www.rexs-speedshop.com

hello we offer a full testing service, new cdi units and electrical repairs for the 360 machines. www.rexs-speedshop.com

Rule of thumb with ignition units, if they are potted in resin they are virtually impossible to repair. While we have chemicals here at the speed shop that strips the resin off in an hour, they also damage insulation. If the box is not potted it can be opened. If its smoking it a fault on the power side. Providing the board has not been badly burnt and the microprocessor not damaged they can be repaired. If the the unit is easily available a replacement would be the way to go, if not a repair would be worth paying for. One point to note, more often then not owners taking the box apart to have a look themselves turn a repairable item in to scrap. There are components in there that will fail if subjected to the static charge that builds up on your clothes.

Firstly its the car and not the bike that could be damaged due to the jump starting. The ECU could receive a voltage spike that can damage it - done it myself and had to have the ECU repaired which was very expensive. Lesson learnt don't jump start modern cars (or a bike from the car). If the cdi is smoking its not likely to be caused by being jump started - there must have been a fault there already. I know these CDi units do burn out as we just repaired one for the XV100, the diodes get extremely hot when they fail. You can test the regulator/rectifier with a multimeter. The CDi you need specailist equipment (which we have).