Speedshop

You need a little box that fools the ECU into thinking the EXUP valve is still working or you'll get a engine warning. I've been told a power commander will also fix this but seems like an expensive way round it and there's nothing to say 100% if it will or not. We at Rex's Speed Shop were looking to build a unit to fool the ECU but didn't seem to be much call for them. They would however be a hell of a lot cheaper then a power commander!

The 400 has a field current controlled generator, so you are a bit limited on what voltage regulator you use. If it was a permanent magnet type the later CB250 have a plug and no trailing leads and is a very neat solution. Have a chat with Peter at electrexworld 01491 682369 (tell him Marcus from Rex's Speed Shop recommended them). They have many regulators that maybe suitable. With the waterproof connectors I'd go for the standard universal car type available from AES or vehicle wiring products. Choose something that is widely used and very common to keep prices down and be able to get replacements if you ever need them.

Seems crystal clear to me

Seems crystal clear to me

Rex's Speed Shop will have the DT 125/175 Cdi unit for sale mid Feb if thats any use to you. It will be priced at around £60-85. we can test your old unit free of charge (you pay for return postage) if you want it checked out. Go to the website for contact details. The XT/TT 550/600 unit will be available soon also www.rexs-speedshop.com

You do really need a strobe light. Did you set up the valve clearances?

I've looked they were indeed points, you can check the gap with the flywheel on. Very odd as not many mopeds had points that late. Second the advise above, get a manual then you'll be sure. Your local library will be able to get a Haynes book if they don't have one in - for free.

head race sizes are upper 25 x 48 x 13 = 25ym/48y. lower 30 x 48 x 13 =30ym/48y1. rear wheeels, pull em out and read the sizes off them!

The battery has nothing to do with the ignition on these bikes. It has self generating CDi. You need to find a manual and go through the tests for the source windings, pick up, bike wiring and coil checks. If every thing else is OK its the CDi unit that's gone. I'm assuming you've changed the spark plug and HT cap already ....................

if its not charging yes it will do exactly what's been happening but also it will be very slow cranking the engine as the battery will be almost flat

Even if they did you still have to many wires round the head stock, using relays you can choose very fine wires and you only need 3 going to the handle bars. In sleeving this loom is half the diamater of a Bic biro, meaning just one very small hole to let the loom out from inside the bars. If you want me to look at wiring this up I need a full list of what you want.

I logged on with the MAC and it was OK, later tried with my sister's PC and the virus software went mad and refused to let me on saying the site was a high risk and had known malware on it. It also sent the virus software mental at work the other day. I've not been on much because of this. Seems OK now though.

I think you mean these:- http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Push-Button-Switches/Micro-miniature-push-button-switch/30271 BUT You can't wire the bike's power system through them and expect it to work properly. 2 reasons for this, mainly the switches are not realiable with large currents (and these ones are not rated for more then 0.5 amp, a headlamp draws 6). Switches that can handle the current are often too big to fit and also if you don't use relays you'll need many more wires going to the bars and then you have the problem of getting them all inside. You only need 2 of these switches, unless you have indicators. One controls the headlamp and one for the horn. you need 2 extra for indicators. Also you need to wire up a relay system: you simply can't get the functionality without using relays. Thats what they use on choppers. We offer a design service as well as a full re-wire.

I'd strip the starter motor and give the com a clean and check the brushes as well. A hot earth lead needs checking out though

I don't know what year the bike is but as a rule after 1995 most vehicles have VIN numbers. These are distinctly different from chassis numbers. VIN numbers identify one actual machine - tempering with them is a criminal offence with some pretty stiff and mandatory penalties. IE moving them will land you in hot water. Chassis numbers are just a means of identifying a frame or chassis - under certain circumstances it is OK to transfer them. I Just looked at your photos - thats a VIN - mess with it and if you get stopped and checked expect to have the bike taken off you and some serious explaining to do. MOT centres have to report altered VINs to the Police as well.

We use 1mm2 (which carries 11 amps in standard or 16 amp in 'thin wall) for 99% of all our wiring. I can put togther a selection of lengths of coloured wire if you need. There are much simplified wiring diagrams to down load and other technical help available - here - www.rexs-speedshop.com You can e-mail them if you have questions -you'll need to provide the orginal wiring diagram if you want tech help.

Unless you can find a number plate, tax disc or old photo showing the reg number you've had it. If Yamaha can supply the registeration number this will save you going through the registration process with DVLA

The HID bulbs do use a lot less current per unit of light output. Weather you'd find one to fit a medoly headlamp or not I don't know. You need to find out what type of bulb is fitted and look see if there is a HID replacement. The HID units are bulky in comparison, also they do get pretty hot!

I wouldn't buy anything new......I'd finish my project SR500 first!

£60 is about right for a new one from a proper company that offers a warranty. You must have been very lucky to get a properly rated quality item, new, for £33! £27 doesn't go far when it comes to ladies lol

Well the theory is fine, if you work out which wire does what. You need to check if the voltage is the same IE 6 or 12 volt electrics, then check if the generator type is the same, perment magnet or field controlled. It should be, I doubt you'd find a field controlled generator on a 125. Then if its single or 3 phase. Get all that right then yes you can use a regulator from a different machine.

Carry out a thorough visual inspection of the wiring

A mate of mine had 2 XS500s. the odd thing was that one had slpit cylinder heads and the other was cast in one peice, so I'd say there were some very significant differences between models.

You will find its some pretty low quality 2.6mm wall seam welded tube. General engineering tube will do as a replacement.There are several schools of thought, but I wouldn't go adding tube that is much stronger as you could cause problems elsewhere on the frame. My advice would be cut it and check before you go machining slugs.

I've the head of of bolt welded to either a bar or a nut for 17mm hex before