Speedshop

If all 4 are coming on it could be that the idiot light is allowing the otherside to be powered. See the trouble shooting guides on my website (free to download - copyright owned however) http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Categories/%22Links%20%26%20Downloads%22

Nice write up. For safety critical systems such as brakes, the seals etc should be replaced as a matter of course - particularly when they look like those - all the sealing lips are worn. I'd check that spring too the metal pad often goes up against the rubber seal, it could be different on your bike which is why the parts book is useful - to check if someone else put it back together wrong - so you don't copy their mistake. Most bike parts books are on line at CMSL

Since when did UK bikes have 'axles'! Spindles, bikes in the UK have wheel spindles! (also yokes, not 'triple trees') :-) You caught that pad just in time, the new ones will wear off any marks on the disc soon enough ;-)

Most engineering shops will knock up an insert or drill and tap the hole and supply a slightly larger sump plug. Its an easy job if the sump plate comes off. We've done the 7mm ones in the suzuki cam caps before - and keep the 7mm helicoils in stock of all the odd ball things to have laying about.

The XT600 cdi box does this, but its more likely to be the generator. This is easily tested with a multimeter and hot air gun (with care as you can melt stuff with these). Set the meter up reading the source coil resistance. At ambient (well as near to 20 degrees C as possible) it should be exactly as the book, as you warm it the resistance will climb steadily. Any fluctuating readings or sudden changes as the winding is warmed and thats proof its breaking down and needs rewinding. You can also squeeze the winding with your fingers, if there is a change in reading that too indicates bad insulation. We can test early CDi units but we don't have much experience with these modern units - some need a 12 DC volt supply before the AC system will run.

the head lamp is fed with AC direct from the generator.

not sure what ignition set up it has, but what you describe sounds like classic CDi source coils breaking down. OK for a while, then not, worse when hot. Rain is just happens so much in this country it seems related :-)

I'm all for the above picture, its how I've looked after all non 'o' ring chains I've ever had. If you're bikes trashing chains its either; worn sprokets, bent frame, lack of maintenance

Sorry I'd have to disagree, oilbased products should not be put anywhere near the ignition. It may be a bodge that'll get you home but it adds to the problems by providing a source of material that readily breaks down to form a coductive film. We get sent ignition systems for testing, those covered in WD40 or insulation tape (holds water and muck) tend to prove to be completely scrap needing all the parts replacing. Those left dry can often be saved by just a new lead or coil.

Copper, we don't mess about with carbon film type as it degrades with use.

You have to be careful using an eliminator on these machines. If its 6 voltand still using a halfwave retifier the eliminator won't like the output and it will be damaged. Once converted to 12 volts using a fullwave rectifier it will be fine and works very well. If your bike doesn't have a voltage regulator as standard, the generator will not produce enough power to run a decent headlamp and you'll damage the winding because it'll be trying to supply more power then it was designed to all the time. Below is the center tapped generator configuration you need (note the connections to the regulator are for the units we have, there are many different regulators that have the pins in different positions):

Some one has already pulled the cross bar out! Caustic soda was never that good. a good fire might ruin the chrome but sure did loosen the carbon in the exhaust We used to weld in a nut and use a slide hammer if the baffles wouldn't shift

Oil! The only thing you should avoid is car oil as this has friction modifies in it that will cause problems with motorcycle wet clutches. I wouldn't waste money on anything other then basic mineral oil for the RXS. They are tough little buggers and Yamaha specify basic mineral oil

The 360 uses the same lighting coils as the 250, which will support lights. They use a split coil system, what I'd do is make a center tap where the coils joint then use the moped regulator. We have have a racing magneto stator kit for these that will be availble soon. It does away with the pulser coil that is weak and fails often, or worse partially fails causing running problems. The magneto control unit we have works on the pulser-less principle and gives a modern timing curve giving these old engines a fair amount of midrange poke. You can fit the 250/360/400 lighting coil to our stator kit, or none depending on your preference

you can get a hub on a decent size lathe. set it up off a disc brake mount or unfailed bearing housing,not the o/d of the rim.machine it to the next bearing size up, there are plenty of charts on the net regarding bearing sizes. do it properly then you won't be wondering if it's about to let go.

Thats one hell of a lump of metal mounted on the crank for those tiny main bearings to cope with! Most people go the other way to increase the life of the crank and simplify the electrics! We had a few in last year for testing, as you can see the rotor is a great big lump of iron!

Once a lead or plug cap has broken down once, its scrap. There will be a microscopic trace of carbon left and it will only get worse and worse. New leads and caps are the only sure fix

You have all the info you need.......make a few copies and get some tip-ex, snow paint out the stuff thats not needed.

if say thats not a bad price - try looking up the OEM cost for indicators, I'd bet they are nearly that EACH!

You'll need the wiring diagram to see where all the wires go to

Yes you would need resistors. Also I would not buy Chinese stuff. I know its cheap and they might be OK. However experince tells me that they fall to bits or stop working after a short period of time.

These boxes are prone to failure and they give slightly different timing curves. There are several versions of the CDi unit and a TCi unit which is not compatable in any way with a CDi. There is a somewhere a website where the author has drawn up a CDi circuit - but it runs very badly. he also lists which cdis he THINKS may work on other bikes. search XT600 cdi and you'll find it. I don't endorse any of the claims made on the site.

I've a DT 400 generator here that also had no regulator as standard. There is so little copper on it I doubt it makes enough power to blow bulbs. I would be careful if the bike didn't have a regulator as the generator is not likely to be powerful enough to provide enough power for a 12 volt conversion. Thats one regulator pin out, there are others: the Kokusan Denki version of that unit the BATT and GND are reversed, others have the AC on one side and I've seen this reversed with the DC on the opposite side. I've been looking at these units and have found that many are made for mopeds with a 25 watt headlamp bulb. The regulator becomes unstable with increasing load as a result. This even causes problems for owners of the bikes these unit are supposedly made for and burn outs seem common, reading the GY6 forums. There is no way of telling them apart by looking. A multimeter can show if the pins have the same reading when tested but this doesn't ensure correct function or power rating. I've been considering stocking Italian IDM regulators as these come with a proper data sheet, gauranteed power handling and pin outs. But knowing how people like to find a nice cheap 'bargain' on eBay I haven't invested. The problem is they are much more expensive then the Ling-Long regulators where the data sheets are laughable (one claimed 180 watt rating - no chance). So far I've found the CG125 Brazil is the same as the C90 unit and seems to cope with the power OK. Good suppliers will know exactly what unit fits which machine and stick with known good units. The problems start with cheap sellers on ebay who just buy consignmnets and hope for the best. I'd avoid anything for a GY6 as I'm sure these 'box movers' pedaling utter rubbish on ebay are the real cause of all the problems GY6 owners experience This is a Ling-Long one I opened up (£8.00 ebay) - its made of total rubbish (there's a surprise).It looks more like a hand made prototype then a production board. It would run a 25 watt bulb and it was completly unstable with any more then 3 amps drawn on it! You won't get a good one apart as they are made from specially design components that you can't buy off the shelf, the 'board' is moulded in one piece with all the components built in.

We have electronic relays, resistors and 'tweak kits' if you have problems with all the lights coming on at once. An electronic relay is the best option as it uses less power and is very easy to fit. Resistors place the same load on the circuit so the old mechanical relay still works. Link to free trouble shooting guide: http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Categories/%22Links%20%26%20Downloads%22 Relays and tweak kits: http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Categories/Products/Motorcycle_Wiring_Products/%22LED%20Indicators%20%26%20Tweak%20Kits%22 Terminals and crimping pliers: http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Categories/Products/Motorcycle_Wiring_Products/Terminals__Connectors

As above If not the voltage will drop until the engine misfires as the ignition can't produce sparks.