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To fit a 99 Sr engine in a 95 , you either need the 99 wiring loom with it, or fit the 95 stator with cover & also the flywheel in the 99 engine .

If everything is ok with the bike apart from engine go for it , there should be no reason for it not to work , your old unit will power the bikes electrics & if it was ok before it should be in the new one , It is the only major difference, plus the new one will have automatic cct which is a plus & a different carb that shouldn't be an issue & work near enough the same , They are very prone to top end failures, regular oil & filter changes valve clearances will prevent that , you could refit the new flywheel etc to the old lump & sell it to get some cash back ? Good luck with it

It's not a hard job realy , to swap the the stator & flywheel , with a puller .

Also reset the needle & check the air filter , clean & re'oil or replace it

Short answer is no , you either will have to swop flywheel & stator + cover or wiring harness . Any other questions check here first , its nice to be nice & yes you should have posted in the workshop http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/forum/48-noobs/

The guvna disk lock is too tight to the hub on the ybr , so I filed a few mil off a corner & now fits ok also it will fit on the sprocket ,which makes it a bit more secure, as it's harder to remove rear wheel etc.

I only have a box , because it came with the bike & it's a givi monolock quick release one , so I can take it off in seconds , but still too cumbersome to carry about . PersonalyI wouldn't buy one myself , prefer & use a rucksack most of the time .

Practically any will fit , you just have to decide on what size you need & if you want a removable or fixed one. Look on ebay YBR's for sale,theres always some with givi boxes on to give you an idea .

Dont know if this has been here before ? looking back a few years . http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/bikes/Test_Reports/index.html

Yeh probably , I read it as it had been running rough after rebuild from start . 15 minutes to check timing marks wouldn't hurt if unsure ?

Did you do the top end yourself , or did a shop do it ? only asking , because if you are one tooth out on the camchain it would be running rough & could cause more damage .

If the stock tyres are the same as earlier models & they are tiwanese nylon ones , they are well known to be crap Riding on even damp roads practically upright & roundabouts extra steady ( I didn't trust them at all ,they have really bad reveiws ) I changed mine with only 600 miles on them for some michelin pilot sporty, the handling / braking etc vastly improved I throw the bike all over now with confidence & sold old tyres on ebay for £40 , So the new ones ended up costing £70 fitted.

Personaly , I would not ride a bike especially 4 a stroke until it has warmed up & normaly when cold I do for more than 5 mins , sod the neighbours . Riding from stone cold will not do the motor any good . And if it's running ok after 5 mins, I would leave it as it is

Will the engine still turn over with the starter motor ? ( meaning is the engine free & not stiff or seized ? ) I dont know what popped ?? If it turns over , It may still not have enough power to start, I would give the battery a good charge , as being left out & just starting for a few mins every day , especialy when it's very cold, could 1 drain the battery & 2, with not getting it to full operating temperature it will draw moisture in, condensation & this is the steam ( not smoke ) that you are seeing . If the bike has a sight glass for checking oil level you may see evidence of this , like milky water in the oil If it does start warm it up & give it a good long run like, FZR said to boil off any moisture & it should be ok, smokewise ?

Either as KP says , or cable adjusters slack / main clutch adjuster , not set up propperly when you put it back together ( too slack )

Piston diameter XT 125R/X 2005/09 ...53.977mm - 53.996 mm according to haynes . Where do you get 57 mm from , the old XT ? You should take notice of mervin, or it will probably end up costing you a lot more , or worse .

The first time ive had warm hands riding, since november , managed about 45 miles & actualy had a sweat on . Not far from you at dony.

If you're replacing it with a chain with a split link, I would just cut the old one off & sling it , then you don't nead a splitter. Its only a thin chain & easy to cut off. You can always get one in future if you need one for a bigger bike

I think , I just used a large adjustable, with the forks lowered a few inches & held tight in the bottom yoke .

Hi Nigel I would say its very likely ,though I haven't actualy done it , the only difference is like you say at the top & how you fill / drain them . One just has an O ring the other a threaded plug .

The headlight relay is , far right of the battery .You should check for any loose connections first,especially bad earths & fuses. Oh & get a manual, ok R

Hi Steve, I would first go for, clogged breather/hose for White smoke , according to the manual , worn - rings / valve seals / valve guides / cylinder worn or cracked or scored / head gasket broken between oil return & cylinder . Black smoke.. Air filter clogged / main jet too large or loose / choke stuck / fuel level too high in float chamber / float needle valve held off needle seat . Brown smoke.. main jet too small or clogged / fuel flow insufficient / fuel inlet needle valve stuck / carb inlet duct loose / air filter not sealed . Good luck with it

Faulty neutral/sidestand/clutch switch(es) or diodes.Check the wiring to each switch & the switch itself, and check the diodes. Is what the XTR/X 05-09 manual & I suppose most say . Not to dificult a job with a multimeter, Good luck with it & welcome

Mmmm nice one , you can't go wrong for that price. I have ordered some today ,you can't have too many. Exact same set for £10 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/9-PIECE-METRIC-COMBINATION-CHROME-SPANNER-SET-NEW-/160525617298?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2560128892