phillipw

Indeed it is indicating a fault code. tacho inicates rpm for 2 secs, then fault for 2 secs, then nothing for 2 secs, then repeats. 7 is the code for a faulty EXUP valve. I geuss from what you mention that it is stuck closed, check it's free to rotate, check the cables, if left it will strain the servo, if left to long the nylon gears inside the servo will strip and you'll have to get another one.

try FI international. google it. OR DIY method Get longer tie rods (dog bone shaped pieces of metal that join the rear shock absorber to the swinging arm), any half decent engineering place should be able to fabricate some for you, don't go crazy 5mm or 10mm may do it. Then you can slacken ther pinch bolts on the yokes and dopr the front of the bike until they almost touch the bars, Phillip

It looks to me as if it's a yamaha dtr 125 caliper ( front and rear are the same )

Don't bother refinishing the forks, give ABE (All Bike Engineering) a shout and get some repalacement ones. It's never worth the hassle re chroming unless it's some old classic thing which it's impossible to get replacement ones for.

Is it not performing correctly or are you just after MORE ? What colour are the plugs, at full throttle ? I see it's a trike, what air box / filter have you got ? Changing the main jets for larger ones will only affect 3/4 to full throttle. It may be correctly jetted for you partitular airbox / exhaust comination, what rear end have you got ? Could it be a final drive gearing issue ?

In the UK some places retail WURTH brake paste in a little sachet, we do were I work, for about 60p, if you can't find any near you, use copa slip, any engineering place should have it. A small dab smeared over the areas of the pad that touch the pistons The metal plates are fitted to help prevent the pad squeel you have, try fitting them the other way around, and next time, look at things are BEFORE you take them apart (handy tip #47, take a picture with a digital camera, could proove invaluable when reassembling something).

A common cause of backfires is a leaking exhaust system (blown gaskets, joints,,etc.) A for not running nicely when hot, when were your valve clearances last checked ?

It's a 12 volt system. Do you really think you should be working on a bike when you dont know ?

What was it you did to cure the sticky lever then ? Go on, help everyone else. Cheers phillipW

The exup valve, is a variable restictor in the exhaust system (looks a bit like the Thames barrier), take your silencer if and look down tha pipe with a torch you should be able to see it. It is controlled by the ignition module via a servo motor and two cables. By altering the gas flow it optimises the exhaust flow to suit the gas flow of the engine. At low rpm it is almost shut the higher the rpm the more it opens. I just had to replace one that was bent ?? on a 2001 Fazer 1000, cost £174.24 + VAT ! ! !

Hi, I suspect one of the carbs has a sticky / worn float valves thus allowing fuel to flow when it shouldn't. It will overfill the bowl and then up into the body of the carb, then into engine and or airbox, If it gets into the engine it can "hydralic lock" ie the piston comes up and can not comprese the petrol and has been know to bend con rods!! I have personally seen it on more than one two stroke engine.

Hi, A tacho jumping to 3,000 rpm is a fault code : low fuel pressure, I suspect the garage that fitted you exhaust pipe for you lifted the tank for some reason ? Either that or the pressure sensor or it's wires have failed because they feel like it.

Hi Crispytw, This is one of the classic signs of a poor battery, there is enough oomph in the battery to spin the motor, but not spin the motor AND power the ignition. Have you ever tried to jumpstart it from cold ? If not try it. The reason it is better after it has been used is that the oil has warmed up and is therefore thinner, so turns over easier thus leaving more oomph in the battery, enough for the ignition to function.

Hi fellow biker When you so oil is leaking from "one of the exhaust pipe from the engine", where exactly is it leaking from, most enginges have a small drain hole just below each exhaust outlet on the cyclinder haed, to let any fluid that gets into the spark plug recess to drain away, if it's eminating from here; than is is probable that the cam cover is not tightened down, the cam cover seal is not fitted correctly / failing and allowing oil - via the plug recess - to drain out or a cracked cam cover. If it is actually coming out of the exhaust pipe itself then the likely culprit is a failed valve stem seal. Before you panic it is possible to replace valve stam seals without removeing the cylinder head, with offening cylinder at TDC, replace plus with air line fitted with plug thread and use compressed air to stop the valve falling into the cylinder. Clean around and above where you think the leak is, start and / or ride it until you can clearly identify where the leak is. Have you or any one done any work on the motor top end, ie chack valve crearances ? Hopes this helps Good luck

Hi fellow biker, Sounds to me that the starter button wiring is sometimes making a connection, as if you had pressed the start button, then because a brake needs to be on the starter motor spins when you apply a brake, check the wiring for the brake switches, wiring inside handle bar fairing, starter button then where the wires run inside the bodywork - down to the starter relay. I have come across a number of scooters where wiring is cable tied to the framework below the footboards, and after a couple of years has worn through the plastic and caused the bare wires to short out against the framework. Good luck P.S. Remember this - Elctrical problems are easy to solve, the hard bit is finding them !

As far as i know the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a potentiometer (radial variable resistor), the variations in resistance tell the CDI where the throttle is, (ie how much power the rider wants, load on the engine). The CDI can then make small adjustments to the ignition timming (advance / retard) as best suited to the riders needs, engine load, revs]. If it is not connected / not working then the CDI will not have this information and you will not have the advantage of different ignition curves, it should still perform well, just not at it's optimum. You probably would not notice on the road, but on the track / dyno it would soon become evident. Hope this helps you out, I had a CBR 600 91 modded with 98 motor and messed about a lot with it, never noticed the difference wether the TPS was connected on not, until I put it on a dyno, 91 hp without, 99 with. Happy biking, PhillipW