KirriePete

*Cough!* Hacksaw *Cough!*, then get a 'silencer' with an internal diameter that matches the outside diameter of your stub. I've had some .... errrr .... 'interesting' results with tailpipes from Feked - Clicky Link - the old GN400 Suzuki was "quite fruity" (words of Mr MOT man) with one of their Universal Cone jobbies on it. As for rejetting - any old carb won't do, there are different bore sizes as well as a multitude of jet options, and randomly fiddling with the screws is always going to end in frustration, reset everything to factory standard and then move on from there. If you can afford it, a session on a decent dyno will reap rewards, as they can see exactly how it's being fuelled throughout the rev range and advise on any changes, maybe even rejet for you while you wait, with another run on the dyno to show improvements. Definitely a black art if you ask me....

First things first - sorry to hear about the off, you'll be stiff as a board tomorrow if my memory serves me well. Now then, TPFT only covers claims made against you by others (the Third Party). You could try making a claim against her insurance, if you got any details from her, but then you'd have to prove she caused the accident, which would be difficult to say the least as her car is unmarked. Here's the scenario: Ins company: "So, Ms Dipstick, what happened?" Ms Dipstick: "I was waiting at the junction to pull out. I saw a motorcycle approaching so held my position. The motorcyclist suddenly hit the brakes, skidded and fell off, I don't know why ...." Ins company: "Thank you, no claim .... NEXT!" Time to check out breakers yards and/or learn the art of plastic welding, I'm afraid ....

Constant squeak or just when you brake? Constant - check for something rubbing - bike on centre stand, spin wheel by hand while getting your ear in close. Find the squeak and adjust/lubricate it. On braking - clean the dust out of the drum, try not to breath any in, it's not asbestos-based these days but it's still not nice. Then have a look at the shoes and see if they're glazed over (too shiny) - a quick onceover with some emery paper will take the shine off. Also check the pivot points and give them a thin smear of copaslip while you're in there.

Have to ask - why? It's just a means of identifying the machine for the cash collection operatives, an easily remembered number could be a disadvantage: Plod - "Can you remember anything about the nasty biker who zoomed past at 200mph?" Scenario 1 - ordinary plate: Doris - "It was a red bike, that I know, think the number plate had an N and a 5 in it, or was it an S?" Scenario 2 - 'Wanker plate': Doris - "It was a red bike, that I know, oh and the number plate spelt PR1CK" QED

I've lost my voice but I can still type. A proper locksmith (not a cobbler with a bench grinder) should be able to cut a key from the lock, sure there isn't a serial number stamped on it somewhere? Phone your local locksmith, costs nothing to ask does it?

A few thoughts (in descending order of probability): Leaky carb diaphragms Main jets blocked Ignition timing out Valve timing out Other than that - buggered if I know!

Acksherly, the change in the law was that you had to be 17 to ride a bike up to 250cc, previously you could do this at 16. 16 year olds were now restricted to mopeds, defined as 50cc or less with pedals fitted capable of propelling the machine. So if you turned 16 on 15th December you could be a ton-up boy on a Suzuki Super Six or Kawa A1 Samurai, but a day later you were stuck on a 'ped - now that sucks!

This one - Clicky link? Looks like a reasonable winter hack if the price doesn't go to silly money. As to your specific query - the crankcase vents to the airbox, so if it's overfilled you will get oil pumped up there. Dunno why the seller can't be ar$ed to drain off a bit, 5 minutes work and he can improve his description, get more bids. Just makes you wonder what else he can't be ar$ed to do.....

Chain tension - check and adjust it. Then get a feel for your gearbox to make the 1-2 change a bit slicker. Now do be a good chap and say howdy in the cunningly disguised New Members section, before someone offers you a sandwich!

Much as we would love it to be true ...... it ain't. This story has been going round since at least the mid-90's to my certain knowledge - I worked in the MoD back then and recall some of my uniformed pals having a chuckle over it, not for the 'Stupid Cops' but for the impossibility of it.... If only the so-called journalist had bothered to check Snopes before committing to print .....!

A quick search on the Devil's own auction site currently brings up 32 SV650's in the £1500 bracket - Clicky Link. As for the Dommie - I still miss my old Miss Whiplash (seen here up at Backwater Reservoir): A real hoot to ride round the gravel, sheepshit and pothole riddled back roads up here, but a literal pain in the ar$e on any trip over 50 miles (seat like a plank), and don't even think about motorways/duellers - definitely not the environment for one of these! Mind you, when we get 3 feet of snow the Dommie (and it's big traillie brethren) really comes into it's own, ho yuss! For all-round capability, get the SV.

That circular thing is the starter solenoid (relay) - a quick check to locate the problem is to short the two big connections on the top of this with a screwdriver (preferably rubber or wood handle) with the ignition on. You should get a few big fat sparks and the starter motor should spin up. If the starter doesn't spin up then it's one of these: the motor itself, the battery or the connections. You say you've charged the battery, but is it holding that charge? Have you got another battery you can pop in (or take jump leads from) for a check? If that's OK, check the connections battery -ve/frame, battery +ve/solenoid, solenoid/starter and starter/earth are clean and tight, then check the continuity on the cables - an ohm-meter should read next to no resistance. If the leads check out OK, then the motor needs looking at, quite likely just a clean and maybe new brushes. If the motor spins up alright, then the problem is either the solenoid or the power to it. I don't think you have any issues with the sidestand/clutch switches as they would prevent the solenoid from clicking in the first place. My first target would be the battery - how old is it? Just a few ramblings, HTH.

Not an expert on reading dyno sheets, but I'd say there's absolutely nothing wrong with that engine. Power curve is smooth, fuelling map is just about spot-bollock dead on, leanest it gets is at 35mph where it hits the stochastic 14.7:1 ratio - everywhere else it's just a wee bit richer. Peak power of 12.05 bhp is about what I'd expect from one of these - 14 at the crank, knock off a couple for transmission losses (most 'experts' reckon 15% or so) and there y'go. Would be nice to have rpm figures on the chart, but hey-ho. So - stop fretting that your engine is running badly, it isn't - it's actually in very good condition judging by that chart. Can I just ask how much experience you've got, both riding and fettling (and driving, maybe)? It's just that the low speed bogging down and jerkiness are hallmarks of a beginner not getting a feel for the 'sweet spot' - all those learner drivers 'kangaroo-ing' away from the lights spring to mind ....

Indeed, there's a pair sitting in my cupboard for any time I fancy a change from the Alt-Bergs. Or, I hear good things about German Paratrooper Boots - a quick Google throws up a load of 'em from about £50 up.

6 D-cell Mag-lite torch, foot and a half of aluminium weighing in at 1½ kilos, with batteries. You hear a noise at night, you're gonna need a torch, aren't you?

Old? You don't know you're born, young man! I worked my way through the latter years of school by pumping petrol (not sitting in some cosy kiosk pressing buttons, actually getting out there in all weathers) - one regular of mine had a Jag with twin tanks - it took nearly £25 to fill that up ............ with 5 star! No, not 5 Star the group: but the real man's fuel!

Yep, the rubber's just fixed onto the slide same as the left hand one is on the bar. Wee tip when fitting the new grips, use hairspray as a lube - it gives enough slip to get the rubber on without too much of a fight, then dries to form a lacquer holding it all on.

If fuel's pi$$ing out of the overflow, no wonder the poor thing won't run properly. Check your float height is set correctly, then check that the float's not got a leak (air out, fuel in, float sinks), then check the float needle & seat for crap/wear. One (or more) of these things will be the cause, sort it and you should be OK. HTH

It's a 125 that's tuned to be a wee bit more exciting than a plain vanilla commuter YBR or similar, the trade-off being less pulling lower down the rev range (not that there's much to play with on these in the first place). Whacking the throttle open before it comes on cam will result in more intake roar and .... errr .... not much else. Get a feel for where your engine is most responsive and use the gearbox to keep it there. Transmission snatch most likely, more evident on singles due to the bang pulse every other revolution. Select a lower gear, or slip the clutch if in 1st to keep it above the snatch zone (3000rpm?). Authors note - the above could well be a right load of old bolleaux. I haven't seen or heard this engine, so I'm guessing, but it's guesses based on 35 years of riding and fettling (I still f**k up every now and then, even after all that time!).

Wee John reckons they'll group up at Morrison's about 12-ish and head up. I can see the Teuchters doing the usual McD's at Forfar and tagging along as the Dundonians run past, call it 12:30 or thereabouts ....

.... and it's a nationwide MAG organised protest at 13:00 (1 pm for the 24-hourly challenged) on Sunday 25th.

I take it I'll be seeing you at Stracathro on Sunday then John?

Air/fuel ideal stochastic ratio is 14.7:1 so the dyno looks like it's running damn near spot-on. The only thing you say may be wrong is the plug colour - but is it white or light grey? Bear in mind that most modern engines are designed to run lean to cut down on the evil emissions that are killing all the cuddly-wuddly polar bears. Are you having any problems with it, like stuttering, poor pickup, stuff like that? If it's running OK, leave it alone would be my advice.

I'm inclined to think carb diaphragms - after 10 years sitting they will likely have gone off, either perished and developed tiny leaks or gone stiff. Either way, they won't be generating enough lift to bring the mains into play, which would give you the symptoms you describe. If you need new ones, try NRP. You're welcome.

I'd have to agree, sounds like the OP is flailing away like a man possessed, whereas all that's needed is a good old-fashioned 'long swinging kick' - once you learn it, you wonder how you ever managed to start a bike before! Like this? Watch a master at work - ease up to and just over TDC, then an easy swing, no jabbing, jarring or leaping involved, just a lovely noise. Enjoy!