KirriePete

Some bikes are complete barstewards to get into neutral, my old NTV Honda just wouldn't go unless the engine was off, or you snicked in before the bike had stopped, or (my favourite) you revved it over 3,000rpm. Get used to it would be my advice.

Yeah, sounds like it ain't charging properly. Everything switched off you should get 12.5 to 13 volts across the battery, with the engine running that should rise to 14-14.5 volts as the revs rise. If it doesn't you should look at the connections back to the reg/rec first, make sure they're clean and tight, then work back through the charging system. My money's on the reg/rec being duff.

Did you really not recognise Bro'ty Castle John? Strewth mate, your memory must be going faster than I thought, all those 2 stroke fumes probably. BTW, was that you this afternoon about 1-ish on the yellow DT heading into Dundee on the Broughty road? Oh yeah, welcome Ryan, who you got sorted for your Mod1 & 2 training? Not that I'm pitching any sales talk your way, but ..... http://www.scotriders.co.uk/

I normally go with "nipped up", "ooof!" and "oh bollocks!".

Spacer in the wrong place, maybe?

OK, stop everything, hold the bus, don't touch that dial! Just read this whole thread from the start again to find out if I'm missing something: Original post - You fitted new indicators (from China) and they didn't work properly. Your second post - The bulbs in the new indicators are dual filament 10/5W Your 4th post - They have a parking light option that you've ignored. Soooooooo ...... a parking light (daytime running light?) in the indicators is not something I normally see. Presumably the new indicators have 3 wires, one ground, one for the 10W and one for the 5W filament, (or maybe 2 wires for the filaments and ground is taken care of by the body of the indicator), yes? If they were mine I'd be wiring both filaments into the indicator circuit and leaving it at that, 15W indicators, sorted. Make sure you know which wire is which, cross connecting earth and 5 (or 10) would give "interesting" results! Can I ask why you changed indicators in the first place, and why you went for dual purpose jobbies instead of simple plain, old-fashioned winkers?

You're not looking in the right place. Any car parts shop, Hellfrauds, motor factors, even your local petrol station will have shitloads of single filament indicator bulbs. You cannot use a dual filament bulb in a single filament socket, the bayonets won't line up and the contacts on the bottom are different (2 for a dual, 1 blob for single). Take your original bulb into your local motor factors and ask the bloke behind the counter for more like that one.

Might flash a bit faster, unless the relay is a solid state jobby. Of course, if they've got 15 and 21 Watts on the shelf, take the 15s, it's just that 21 is more common (standard in pre-LED cars and so forth).

They're dual filament stop/tail light bulbs! Single filament 12V 21W (possibly 10W) is what you need.

The rattle is likely to be the oil pump pin on the clutch, common issue with the Divvy. Ignore it, won't do any harm, but if it annoys you too much it's a relatively simple fix. Check out the Diversion owners forum for more info. You're welcome.

Maybe I'm being too simplistic, but have you checked the polarity? Ordinary bulbs don't give a stuff which way the current flows, LEDs do. Just sayin' .....

I'd go with a dry lube in dry dusty weather, wet lube in wet weather. Well, I say that's what I'd go with, but as I ride shafties I don't give a stuff.

If you can get the number off the ignition lock barrel, a proper locksmith should be able to look it up and cut a key to match.

Yes, you have blown the dip element. New bulb, job done.