RogerD

I have to ask....where did all these bikes come from??

Great tip on the wd40 leak test - my old DT has the same symptom and I suspected a leak someplace as well.

Thanks for the props. It was a joy to do. I have 2 R5's and a couple of other dirt bikes that need attention now. Can't wait to get one of the r5's on the road! Roger

I started laughing out load............

Paul, Yep, got it figured out. Now I can work on getting the pictures the right size.( Some were too large - sorry) Thanks again for your input last summer. As you saw in the pictures, I have another pretty rough DT360 to restore - my third one, as well as a 71 and a 72 R5. They should keep me busy for a while. Any thoughts on my RT1 intake issues? I am going to keep that one just for dirt riding - no lights or anything. Posted in Workshop and Dualsport forums.

I've tried every method of removing rust from tanks that you can think of. I even used the method of sticking a steel rod with a rubber boot on the end into a salt solution filled tank - then you put a jumper cable from a good battery on the rod (+ or - ) and clip the other cable on the outside of the tank somewhere. This actually works great at removing alot of rust. All the other methods you spoke of - vinegars etc... work well too, but the exposed steel will start oxidizing ( rusting) immediately. If yo really want a good looking interior, I would suggest KBS coatings. They have kits for @ $40 that work great and the coating looks metallic grey when you are done. I did two tanks with it and they came out great. Roger etc...

Hi Paul, I have a number of other pics - You can see them at : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260523397724&ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT This is the bike you helped me on last summer with some advice. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong when I try to post pictures in the forum topic section? I did as you instructed - Wen to photobucket and posted reduced size pictures there. Copied the IMG code line and pasted it over to the insert image window, but no picture shows in my posts. What am I doing wrong? I will try to post some before pictures again. Thanks, Roger

Do you know if the pistons are different for the different types of induction? Can I leave the reeds in no matter which intake i use ( spigot or flange)? From what I've seen, I think I want to go back to the stock set-up unless I can find a carb that will fit the current intake joint and air box connector. Here's a link to the reed valve diagram RT2: http://www.cmsnl.com...slist/A-05.html Here's a link to the stock intake RT1 : http://www.cmsnl.com...slist/B-09.html

Smoking - Like it should. Original mileage - 578 Miles Engine back in frame......Ready for final reassembly.....Next project in background...........Finished!Fresh out of the barn in Michigan - spokes still shiny after 35 years.

Hard to beleive it's the same bike. Nice work - well done! Roger

SWEEEEET!!!!!

I just finished my second restoration on a 1974 DT360 and got it sold on ebay. If you want to see it - http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MESOX:IT I am starting a refurbishment on a 1970 RT1 and just got it fired up for the first time today. I'm pretty sure it has a non-stock carb and intake on it. The mikuni carb has a 35.2mm slide with a big bell inlet that doesn't fit the stock air tube going to the airbox. I went ahead and removed the carb and intake on it and found it does have a reed valve intake block. It also has an intake block with a spigot mount 1.57ID (40mm) I am fairly sure the stock VM32SH had to be a flange mount. I have a book that says the RT1 and RT1B were both piston port injection and that the reed valve didn't show up until the RT2 in '72. So I must assume someone changed the intake block to a spigot mount with the reed valve just like my '74 DT360s have. Any advice on if I should leave the reed valve in place it or put back to original - or does that depend on the piston that's installed? Confused in Florida. Roger

Haven' been on in a while - nice bike you found. Have fun!!

I eded up making my own pushrod from 1/4" tool steel stock - seems to work okay... Roger

I was starting to think along the same lines as far as the clutch plate thicknesses. Glad you got yours working. I am going to check mine for the same reason. I'll leet you know.. Roger

I just realized your DT was a "75 - I didn't notice before. The clutch on the 1974 DT's didn't have the ball between the pushrods. Earlier and later years all seem to have the ball. Your long rod is a little different than the 74's. Other than the rod shape and the ball, they seem to be identical. Let me know how it works out if you can get the old shaft out. I didn't have a chance to open mine today to measure my rod length. If you need to look at diagrams try this link,:http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt250b-19751976_model8548/partslist/ Alot of the other parts lists don't have alot of the DT fiche for some reason.

What bike are we talking about - Year and model...

Sounds identical to my problem. i also took the pressure plate off to check the rods. I also took the actuator out like you did. If your clutch pressure plate doesn't move when the lever beneath the engine is pulled forward, it's not a cable problem. From the shop/ service manual and comparing to my other DT, the clutch pressure plate should engage with only a movement of only @ 20 degrees - from 10 degrees to the rear to 10 degrees forward. I think our long rods are too short. Can you measure yours? Or did you put it back together? I can get to my non-working one pretty easily to measur. I'll let you know. Roger

Your 250 should be identical to my 360"s. I'll measure the long rod tomorrow - I believe it should be 6 3/4" long. Roger

The dt360 from &$ should have the same flywheel and coil plate...