busyeddie

Cheers for looking Mike. I wont be buying that if one comes cheap. Have you sourced a supplier for your '78 decals??

Just seen this bike on ebay, hope the sale goes well. Wish I had the money, its tidier than mine, and its a 78!!!

Where can I get some reasonably priced?

Petrol leak from when I fell off on a green lane, found the overflow pipe was awol. Along with tax disc holder!! Previous owner must have painted it. With rubbish paint. Petrol seems to have attacked plastic too. Grey and black marbled effect. Painting only option. Cheers for the plastic prep advice Mike, really seems to have worked on your chainguard mate. cheers Ed

Hmmm, think that would affect it? Anyone got one of each fancy trying?

Fed up of petrol ruining the paint on my flywheel cover, and also like the look of the polished metal. Will they fit?

Thanks OG, glad about that, because ive been trying to teach my DT to bog snorkel recently.

Jesus, anyone would think youve mistaken your DT for a BSA Goldstar!!

Should it have a filter?

No butchery that I know of. It runs. And to be honest I have nothing to compare it to. Its a horrible old 2 stroke trail bike to anyone else I know so there opinions will be biased. I sold my rxs a while ago too. But that was a very low mileage minter.

Ah, my 79 bike has the old air filter box, newer carb with a 160 jet, and possibly an older style cutaway. This is because I had a spare carb in my box of bits, could only source a rebuild kit for the newer carb, but didnt have a cutaway or carb top for the newer carb. It all got screwed back together in the folly of youth and has run ever since. Any ideas if a proper cutaway would be better? And I " probably" have a later oil tank, so could do a swap oved,but dont think i.have a later air box. Aaaaarrrrrggggghhhhh. Too many options. Help. Someone decide for me.

Ah sorry, not too familiar with the us rules. So all the mx over there were strictly off road? Did they have the same bike named differently? I know there model years were a year behind on the twin shock bikes.

Sorry, dont quite get what you mean. Some early 175mx came with side covers that had enduro written on them if that helps.

Indicators are already relegated to the shed, running a much smaller than standard rear light with a soft rubber housing. Could not believe the size of the standard rear light in the haynes book!! Mine is a very early January 1979 bike. So I dont know how similar to a 1978 bike that would make it, if they're any differences at all. Sorry to sound daft, but where are these breathers? Should I extend the float bowl overflow elsewhere?

Thanks cynic, I thought as much on the rear tyre, ill just use what ive got until it needs replacing. I didnt really want to change the forks,wondered if there were any tried and tested springs/oil combos? And the rear shock, is it hard to rebuild? By the way im a lazy 14 stone.

Been out a couple of times for group rides with lads on much newer bigger four strokes, and could not help feel the old dt was getting a pasting. Inevitably ill end up buying a WR soon enough, but would like to still use the DT as it was intended. Wanting to keep things as standard as possible, what can be done to improve the off road capability? And as for tyres I struggled to get any modern 4 inch enduro tyres to fit with out the outer knobs fouling, so ended up with a very soft michelin trials in the back for mot purposes. Admittedly it does look the part, but wont last long on tarmac! What tyres come recommended for greenlaning with a medium dose of tarmac?

Just read this whole topic. Its funny how I struggled with similar problems on mine. On the American loom, does your bike have the smaller cdi and just the one source coil? Sounds to me like you have the loom from a 78/79 bike.

Thats what I have I think. But that will only work with the larger set of reeds. What on earth is the smaller reed block doing attached to a 175 barrell is what I want to know!!

Rebuilding the engine on my dt, delved into my big box of spares and the barrel I had had different sized reeds in it to the one on the bike. And the inlet rubbers are only compatible with the larger reeds as they have a section of rubber that pretrudes into the reed block. The block is taller, wider, and deeper. The opening. Between the carb and reeds is also a different size, hence why the rubbers are not compatible. Which is standard? Could it be from a different year or a 125? And if the ones im using are not standard, in guessing ill need a bigger jet?

As above really, I have a black DT 175 and id like some new decals for the tank and side panels Any ideas? Cheers

1.6mm refers to cars 1mm is the limit for bikes and as said above, if they are E marked, and dont have a "not for highway" notice, you should be ok they dont look as knobbly as the michelins on my Suzuki DRZ400 and they're legal

You really do have to wring the neck on the RXS 100 I rode around for a couple of months riding it hard, or so i thought, and managed medioicre speeds. I then took a Suzuki 500 out, and afterwards the poor little RXS felt pedestrian, but I rode it like I stole it, and it was quicker than it ever had been. Im 14 stone, and used to get 70 on dual carriageways after a while, and would sit at 60 - 65 quite happily on country lanes. If cleaning the carb, new spark plug, and a decent de-coke dont improve things as much as you hope, just push the thing as hard as you can. They seem to handle abuse very well.

the old magneto had bare wires, so i just tested those, and if theres supposed to be a white multi pin connector between the loom and the magneto, then someone has made a right hash of the wiring!!

yeh, the ones coming from the loom that plug into the cdi. I checked a spare old magneto that came in a box of spares, and there far from the figures stated earlier and in the haynes manual also.

I redid the test and got 140 ohms on the brown one, 0.5 ohms on the red one, and 20 ohms on the red and white one. Am i doing this wrong, or is this feasible?