Paulwhite

god if i owned them id put them back in storage and let there value increase over the years!

has the carb and filter been adjusted for the straight through exhaust? if you put a new exhaust on and its straight through then the engine will run lean so a re-jet would need to be done to compensate.

i dont know the code but you shouldnt need it! ur looking for a mikuni 100 main jet may i sugest you dont get the 100 and get the 95 or even the 97.5 sizes? as you wont need to check if its running rich with the 95! and the 97.5 will run rich but not too much to worry about, where as the 100 you will need to either adjust the jet needle or the mixture screw to compensate. have you tried lookin on ebay for a jet? just type in mikuni jet or mikuni main jet and you should get 2 or 3 pages full of differant sizes! ur looking for the round one and not the hexagon one as to price i can go to the local bike dealers round my way and pick them up at £1 per jet but could be anything up to £7! (id consider £7 a rip off!)

right ..... to set the idle screw warm the bike up for about 10-20min then turn down the idle screw so the revs start dropping, turn it right down so the engine nearly stalls (but dont let it stall you just need to find the tilting point between running and stalling. then turn it up by 1 or 2 turns, your trying to get the same sound as a steam engine (just say chuga chuga over and over) i know it sounds daft but it works for me lol then you need to rev the engine once and see if the revs drop off or if it stops at the chuga chuga point, then if all is ok turn the engine off and let it cool down for an hour (or go play with the kids or something, mine are 2 and 3 so at least a couple of hours of playin hide and seek lol) when the engine has cooled down try and start the bike if it starts and runs ok without stalling then its done. if not just turn the idle screw up 1/4 a turn at a time. during the winter you will need to use the choke more often to start and warm up the engine, with the choke on it should rev higher and be consistent (sortof the same sound as a roadworks power chisel) just warm up the engine for 5 to 10 min (depending how cold it is when you want to start it up) then it should run fine and keep you happy soz for the long explanation i tend to witter on a bit lol oh and kelum definatly get some new shocks! its not safe to ride it if the wheel leans to one side!

right the handle bars are a certain diameter which is 7/8 (of an inch) so any bars that size will fit. if you want to replace the bulb in the speedo ul need to take it off the bike and dismantle it to get to the bulb, and last but not least the choppy idle. would be handy if i had some more details like what colour the spark plug is and a run through of what happens and also how high the revs are then i can go through the possibilities and come up with a solution.

ul be lucky to get ur hands on an xvs 250 engine! have you considered putting a different engine in? it sounds allot but if you get a workshop manual for the bike the engine came out of and ur quite handy with a spanner, you could get it in easily enough just need to make some mounts and swap the loom. you could try getting hold of an XV 250 engine (if they made one....im not sure) but its nearly exactly the same as the xvs all they have changed is the covers and a couple of internal parts but it should slot straight in then all you would need to get is the xvs 250 exhaust, xv 250 loom (with ecu and reg/rect and relays), and fit it to the bike

thats just u m8 but yeah welcome to the forum!

have a look at the rear shock absorber and see what setting its on, you might be able to adjust it to a slightly lower one (softer) but other than that there isnt much you can do, other than whats suggested above. or put thicker pair of sox on.

could be that the bike is an 1996 originally but has been re-conditioned and re-registered in 2004 therefore its an 04 plate? if you havent got any problems with getting it on the road then dont worry about it

might be he wants something to mold it off to make sure it fits like either the pattern fender, or the rear tier or he could be on about the stile? similar to the original or close to the tier either way give him a ring to sort it out.

i need to do the same to mine as its stiff and you dont get that "click" that you used to when you turn the indicators off. but il probably dismantle it to give it a good clean!

go on www.wemoto.com they are a good source for parts and are safe! just make sure they deliver in your area! i wont touch an ebay item unless its registered as a business and is a star seller just to be safe .

just check that the battery cables are on tight and are clean! could be a little water is on there from the reg/rect problem!

cant really say as mine is in bits lol

nice bike m8 and lovin the pipes, realy makes it look good! and i bet it sounds well! what year is it?

you will only need tubes if the ones you have are knacked otherwise just use the ones you have! and iv found that the tiers that were on it originally were the best ones iv had so far! they lasted 3 years! but the last set i had only lasted 1 year .....note to self invest in some good quality tires!

yeah i read about that but it said if its a mirror finish then it will stick and slow down flow and to be honest mine is far from mirror finish lol iv only done it so its smooth to the touch but i could always get some 160 gritt wet/dry on it to rough it back up again if i need to. im just tinkering and havin a play as ya do and id love to be able to tell you what speed gains/losses if any had come out of it but its not in the frame yet ..... still need to get some mounts made plus il be tinkering even more with it b4 it goes in, like sprocket size, arrow performance exhaust, k+n air filter, possibly a 150 big bore kit later on (if i can raise the funds) a little hot rod trick with the spark plug (face it towards the exhaust port). but it seems to rev that little faster and the exhaust note has changed (deeper) so initial thoughts are that its helped but wont know for sure till iv tested it on the road, its a honda cbr 125 (2004) engine with 5k miles on it and the average is about 80-85 mph standard (according to the speedo) so with the mods iv made it should hit at least 80mph considering the dragstar frame has more weight to it. the engines are almost the same spec wise but the cbr has more torque and is lighter which should help pull the drag frame better il have to weigh it when its done and do some calculations.

right see the screw on the carb in the pic at the bottom right? its a tap to drain the fuel from the carb so put a cup under it and undo it to let the fuel out. undo the 4 screws at each corner of that cover and take it off you should se 3 brass pipes, the long middle one is the main jet use a flat head screwdriver to take it off (only the top bit should come off) that is the main jet! should have 90 stamped on it you need to get one of them with 95 stamped on it (its a 95 mikuni main jet) or even a 97.5? then screw the new jet on so its seated then put the cover back on (but put one screw in then put the opposit screw in then do the same with the other 2) tighten up the drain screw and put everything back on. done!

take the black hosey thingy off the 90 degree angle thing and blow through it (the hosey thingy not the 90 degree angle thing). if its restrictive then replace with one thats not, if you can blow through it no problem then put it back on. to change the sprocket undo the bolts around the sprocket cover then take the cover off, give the sprocket face a quick wipe to get rid of some of the black sludge. with the chain still on the sprocket, undo and take off the 2 bolts on the sprocket, now there is a thin peice of metal that holds the sprocket on you need to turn it so the teeth in the middle line up with the grooves in the shaft then it should slide off. then take the chain off (or loosen the back wheel,undo the bolts that tighten the chain and push the wheel forward ) then slip the chain off the front sprocket and just wiggle the sprocket off. now the jet is a little more tricky, you need to take the seat and tank off to get to the carb, if you look on the post that i put up (pulse pump) il explain it more there as i can use the pics.

unless you proper score it and whack on some hammerite special metals primer! if you get a brass wire brush drill attachment with autosol it will clean it up nicely and should get rid of the rust (might take a while just get some elbow grease on it) then use washing up liquid to buff it up (and it cleans it) then use a damp cloth to wipe it down then clear coat, wait for it to dry then use car body turtal wax to finish

ok just wondered cause iv attacked a cylinder head with a dremal today for a "practice run" type of thing and its not gone too bad (just took a shaving off) just took out most of the big lumps and bumps/sharp edges then used 600 grit wet/dry paper to smooth it out (took fookin ages), popped it back on the engine and its sounding a bit better, seems to be flowing nicer, and it wants to jump of the stand (didnt do that b4) nearly took my foot out!

hi just a quickie lol porting and polishing. is it just taking out any lumps and bumps left buy the casting of the cylinder head? and then polishing it all up so the air/fuel mix flows freely through the inlet port? and what gains would you expect from it in say a 125 engine?

its behind the speedo cover on the tank. but on mine (2004) its just a metal pipe at a 90 degree angle so no restriction there! plus the bike has a fuel pump that literally sucks the fuel out of the tank and puts it into the float bowl according to what revs your doing. if ur looking to get a little more out of the engine then ur best bet is to put a 95 main jet in and get a larger front sprocket, this will give you a slight increase in torque and the gear increase will lower the revs so less strain is on the engine. you should also be able to get 60-65mph in 4th quite reasonably. if you wanted that little extra re-assurance then an iridium spark plug would help (but not to any noticeable extent!) it will just help the combustion out. plus a high flow oil filter and fresh oil every 6 months will help to make sure that the engine will last.

just take some pics and put them on a computer then edit the photo (so you can get some idea of what it will look like) and take the fender off so you can have a good look and mark it up properly. probs best getting a cheep 2nd hand fender off ebay or somethin to chop and paint then u still have the original if all goes wrong.

or at least every bus stop