Paulwhite

if its spittin fire then its a fuel issue, probs too rich, try cleanng/replacing the air filter.

if its spittin fire then its a fuel issue, probs too rich, try cleanng/replacing the air filter.

this is not yahoo answers, its the Y O C forum and an introduction goes a long way!

good morning/evening! just a little help please cause im stumped right iv managed to get the cbr 125 engine into the xvs bobber frame, but iv come across a problem that i need a little help with. the air box is really bulky and has one of them flat square air filters inside, and it just doesnt go with the theme of the bike, plus it wont fit without some Major modification! now iv experimented in the past with removing the air box on a xv 125 and putting a cone air filter on the carb instead, needles to say it didnt work and i found the only way to make it work was to attach the air filter to the air box as the bike wouldnt run without it. now i was wondering is there any reason why the engine would need the air box? and is there anyway of making it work with a cone filter? im quite handy with fiberglass so i could make an air box to go over the filter but would like a better idea of how it works. cheers. .Paul.

ahhh lol makes sense now well it would take about 2 hours if you took everything off (but thats takin photos and arraigning everything as well as fag and tea breaks), but if you can get away with keeping the carb and air filter assembly on the bike then probs 30min to an hour the actual jet change is about 5 min work it just takes time getting to it

hi john and welcome to the forum!

?? ?? t'e ?? me no understand

once you take the tank off, have a look to see if you have enough room to undo the side of the carb, as you might not need to take the air filter Assembly and carb off, saves loads of time.

that dont sound right....do u mean the bars are higher therefore are pulling the throttle cable slightly open? if your right and im wrong then id check the cables are oiled m8 cause tension from slack cables just dont make sense to me. make sure there free and are not wrapped round the yoke or frame. oh just thought do you have to push the throttle closed for the revvs to go down? mine did something similar turned out to be the black tensioner on the top of the cable was a Little tight (if my memory serves me right)

hi peeps well iv gone and ordered the wrong size chain for the xvs bobber so was wondering if anyone would like to swap? im in need of a new 428 pitch heavy duty 150 link chain and want to do a straight swap with the new dc 428 hd 146 link iv got for the xvs dragstar, plus im throwing in a new 16 tooth front sprocket. i got the whole kit off wemoto and was hoping the chain would fit, unfortunately its about 4-5 links too short. i know that some people can get chains for about 20 quid so im willing to do a straight swap if anyones interested?

looks good chris, with all the extras on, it will fly at £1500!! thats if you sell it and please tell me ur not gonna PX it for a virago 125!

ts to do stuff like this click me to find out

lol me and neversaydie must of been writing at the same time but he must of just beat me posting it and just to add .....the xvs 125 dragstar is the son of the xv 125 virago and uses the same engine. so the manual from the xvs dragstar will tell u everything u need to know.

right you will need to get the movement in the forks fixed not sure on what its called. but its not good. and replace oil seals and dust caps if the forks leak. engine oil filter:- your better off just buying a new one rather than trying to clean it, there not expensive. and do it after an oil change. air filter:- you could clean it but if it was me id just buy a new one, the way i clean mine is soak it in warm soapy water for 3 hours then rinse with warm water, let it dry out fully (i put mine on the radiator over night) then your meant to soak it in oil something like a general purpose oil (i used wd40) then let it dry over night again. but i suppose you could do it with petrol, but im not sure if this is the correct way to clean an air filter! so probably best just buying a new one. engine oil:- now this is important! drain the bike of all old motor oil by undoing the sump plug (biggish bolt on the bottom of the engine) then fill with new oil. there should be a little glass circle where you can see the oil level on the side of the engine near the back. (normally on the right hand side) there should be a min and max mark on it. when the bike is upright it should be just under the max mark. more oil can cause damage the same as not having enough oil. you will need to drain the old stuff, fill it with good stuff, ride it for a week then drain again and fill with fresh (put new oil filter in), this way you flush the engine of all bad oil. use a good 10w40 oil, and the signs of bad oil is:- black + thin, creamy + white, smoking, but by the time you see the signs its too late and some damage has been caused. if you use your bike every day for long distance then to be on the safe side do it every 6 months. and since you dont know when the last oil change was id suggest you do one

right... ok il explain the best i can. on the left hand controls im wanting a button for the horn, a 3 way toggle switch for the indicators,(left,stop,right) and a button to make the lights from low beam to high beam (push in for high beam and also acts as a flasher). on the right hand controls im wantin a similar setup (2 buttons and a toggle switch) a button for electric start, a 3 way toggle switch for the lights (main lights, side lights,off) and a button for engine cut off (say in for running and out for stopping) if its all loose then i can make a plate to mount it all onto b4 its bolted to the bars. all the relays, ecu, diodes, solenoids, and everything else bulky will be going into the battery box that il be making to look like a custom oil tank. if you could do it so it goes something like this:- battery - relays-(connector)- loom (going under the tank)-(2 connectors)- then to each handlebar controls and pop a fuse box in there somewhere? id need to do a diagram and post it up, but if you could get back to me with some sort of price? id be grateful

if you scrape the boards/pegs then your leaning too far and probably going too fast, just slow down a tad and dont lean too far and it will be fine. its all about how you ride.

thanks im interested in the design servive but id rather do the wiring myself as it saves on cost, i have been looking at some micro switches but as you said i would need relays to make it all work properly. i was toying with the idea of replacing all of the switchgear with custom ones so thats horn, lights (on, off, high, low and flash), kill, and starter but i think its going to be one big headache to figure out and fit, just a shame they cant make a micro switch good enough to handle the current.

cheers guys but i think il try this place (someone recommended it to me) My link

ok m8 lol probs not the best idea to import one, and dont think il be going anywhere for a while

hello can anyone show me a website where i can get my hands on some mini 12volt switches to use for some custom switchgear for my xvs 125 bobber? the idea is to replace the big bulky switchgear for something minimalistic, so im hiding all the wiers in the bars and making it look like it has no switches at all! but im having trouble finding the switches i need they need to be able to handle the electrics but be as small as possible. maplin was no help and e-bay was rubbish . cheers. .Paul.

hello and welcome to the forum! i cant comment on your problem sorry (iv only worked on baby drags) but im sure someone will be able to help one thing i could suggest is, you could take the speedo cable to some breakers and see if they have one thats longer and will fit (iv got a bandit 600 cable on my sachs roadster) and here is a link to some nice braided hose you could put over the top of the cable My link

hi kelum you said you paid about 1000 usd for the bike! in the uk that is about £900 the price you would pay for a PERFECT one, with no scratches or problems! so i think you have been riped off, with the bike in the condition it is, it would only get £500 (pounds) if that. in the pictures you posted, the swing arm is bent so have you got that fixed? once thats done you need to make sure the tensioner on both sides are the same, then that should sort out that problem. if its still not right then get someone to hold the bike upright and put a long bit of wood either side of the rear wheel and line it up with the front wheel, if all is good then both pieces of wood should be straight. and run along both tires. by rights the center of the rear tire should line up perfectly with the center of the front tire. if its out and they dont line up then....well lets not think about that for now and hope it lines up! the shocks could bend if there really old or if they have been knocked, the previous owner could have dropped the bike causing the swing arm and shock to bend. and when you undo the bolts on the forks there will be a hole to put the oil into (it only takes a very small amount of oil to fill them and as i said you want about 2-3 inch below the top.

lol ok m8

as far as i know if the tensioner is as tight as it will go, and you get this problem ....you need a new cam chain! and try www.wemoto.com

hi just wonderd if there is a Y O C sticker that i could put on the bike? or do i have to pay the membership?