Paulwhite

think its more to do with "street cred" as they say , the xvs 125 is a nice big looking bike but the sound it makes .....well lets just say it dont match the look of the bike. but no matter what you do to it, its still going to sound like a 125 lol i remember when i did the exhaust mod on mine, was on my way to work and was commin out of a junction when i saw a nice harly, the bloke on the harly had a look heard the sound comming from me and decided to remind me what a bike should sound like! think he had straight through pipes as my ears are still ringing.

you could always try changing the sprocket ratio to increase top end but the acceleration will drop.(costs anywhere between 10-50 quid) all depends what you use the bike for , if ur in city areas then keep it as it is, if your commuting and goin down long roads then id change the ratio so the bike could hit 60mph. but at the end of the day its only 10bhp.

ahhh you might get away with it with them bars. iv just got bog standard drag bars. (if you go to fleabay and type drag bars its the one with the diferant colours in the pic.) but think if yours are wider then everything should fit no probs.

on mine without the risers they touched about 2cm before full lock (which is allot!)... and i think mine are the same My link you could get away with it if you turned the controls round....but then you would need to be a contortionist to use them lol. suppose if you didnt mind gettin cramp you could turn the bars up slightly. but try them for size 1st you might get away with it

on mine.... ....... without the risers they touched about 2cm before full lock (which is allot!)... and i think mine are the same My link you could get away with it if you turned the controls round....but then you would need to be a contortionist to use them lol. suppose if you didnt mind gettin cramp you could turn the bars up slightly. but try them for size 1st you might get away with it

ur gonna need some 3 inch risers, two 12mm diameter by 3-4 inch bolts and two 1 inch diameter washers m8! and a 12mm drill bit! got some on the bobber project but had to get some 4 inch risers cause the controls hit the tank.......but all the risers have 12mm bolt holes and the risers on the dragstar have a 10mm hole! so iv drilled out the holes on the yoke to 12mm to accommodate the risers then put the washers on top then the risers. sorted it out lovely m8.

pm sent ......its a long one lol (just for fun and incase he checks here 1st) hi there and welcome to the forum .....(are you ready? lol) the main jet is a 77.5 (standard) think the pilot jet is a 12.5 or there abouts and im not sure what model carb it is just know its a 38mm. but its the same engine and carb as the yamaha xv 125 virago so just try and get a manual for the xv 125 virago and that will tell you everything you need to know.......engine wise anyway. but the bike is a simple beast. as to an exhaust expect to spend close to £200 for the complete system (standard) but you could try and find a highway hawk system if you have the funds. my bike is in bits at the moment as i tried tuning it and it worked quite well for a while but the crank went shortly after. that reminds me, if you have only just got it, get a high flow oil filter and totally flush the oil and top up with some good stuff! i wrote an article a while back on how you need to look after the oil as the crank seems to be a BIG weak spot on the engine! and il tell you now ....you dont want to have to split the engine to replace the crank! lol plus piston rings are like gold dust! and ....you might need to undo the right hand engine mounts to drain the oil through the sump plug as for some unknown reason they decided to put the frame in the way! so just undo the mounts and pull the engine out just enough to get to the drain plug. il give you one more tip....enjoy the bike for what it is and dont think about tuning it as it just cant take it, and you will be wasting your money. honestly mate iv Had to rebuild my engine twice and spent about 400 quid on it and it still isnt fully working. and Finlay .... B the best mods iv done so far is putting drag bars on it or renthal bars (makes it look like a street fighter!) and possibly a paint job. so yeah soz for goin on lol and hope you find this helpful.

35 QUID!!!! for a set of hawks!!! u lucky son of a ......

i it me or does the dyson digital motor ....(with a little modification).....look like it would work as a small turbo?

wonder how long it would take to blow a tire doing a burnout 7 ....8 seconds? mint bike

havent a clue m8 make me an offer lol

cheeky so n so! its not a ram air positive pressure system its just a air box replacement! no harm in havin a play

just 1 question.....what make was the disk lock? i want to know so i dont get one....not if all it takes to get it off is a junior hacksaw.

its a 125 4 stroke! its not restricted. everything is the way it is to give you the best balance between performance and reliability if you change the exhaust then it will make it flow a little better but its injection so the icu/ecu/cdi or whatever you call it will be out of sync with the engine. the "secret modified part" is most likely either a re-profiled cam or a ecu chip which will give you better performance at a cost! and the cost 9 times out of 10 is reliability! plus any addition or modification done to the bike which has not been done by yamaha will void warranty! best thing (and the cheapest) is change the sprocket size, that way your not messing with the balance of the engine and you can set it for more speed or more acceleration at the expense of the other (more speed = less acceleration and visa versa)im sure ppl wouldnt mind dropping a second at pull-off to gain an extra 10mph. as to the 192 big bore kit, it would dramatically improve the top speed and acceleration but think of how much extra force is going into the crank and bearings!(it was designed and built as a 125cc!) could find you need a new engine after a year or two. plus if ur on L plates and happen to get randomly pulled by a copper that knows a little about bikes ...well lets just say you wont be riding it home. sorry for the rant lol but if you want to go fast on a 125 sell the r125 and get a 2 stroke (as it will work out allot cheaper to go faster!)

oh god what to put ....iv got a shed full of stuff....great idea though got about £350 worth of P.A system (2 floor standing speakers, rack amp, all cables) home made gokart (7bhp) , 2 X 6 by 9 280watt jvc speakers in a wood surround (quite bassy) £400 worth of eppiphone gothic sp (electric guitar) bits off the drag 125 2 kids 1 fully toilet trained other is getting there, both a little gobby, but great fun.

thanks for the reply i have done an engine check b4 i tackled the airbox and all is fine (as far as i know since the engine is out of the bike), the engine runs nice with the original airbox and mods, the jetting seems to cope well with the polished head and exhaust in all rev ranges (did many a plug chop) as to ignition timing and advance curve iv looked into the engine (the best i can) and found that the 2004 cbr 125rr engine (which is what iv got) was one of the best carb models in terms of advance curve and performance, hence why i chose it to put into the bike. and i got a good engine with 5000 miles, i took it apart and its been run in well, no scuffs or marks below the piston rings, and clean oil, and there known for there reliability. iv tried looking around for any examples of mods done to the engine and cant seem to find anything on removing the airbox, so it seems to be something new for this engine and i want to try and get it right im also going to put a slightly bigger main jet in once iv got the air filter to work just to make sure its not going to run lean at full revs. iv always had a problem with over-complicating things its just me lol hence why i posted on the forum cant beat some old school knowledge and experience! and neversaydie thanks for the link i didnt think of a ball valve! defiantly something to consider! and it was a question to which anyone could reply to, but i couldnt fathom why you wanted to know the dimensions .....now i know lol cheers iv just read the link you sent JimR.(took me a while to get my head in gear lol) and am now thinking a washer with a certain size hole would do a better job. il have to have a play and see what results i get.

good answer! most gear problems are caused by bad oil, could be a case of the contact for the neutral switch is engaging but the gears arnt slipping in, just do a complete oil change (drain, fill, run, drain, fill) then that should sort it out. for flushing just get some cheep (ish) 10w40 then after u drain it fill it up with the good stuff (dont ask me what oil to use as i dont know lol)

why would you need to know? all im askin is if someone knows a better way to make a butterfly valve, or has any idea of any other way of accuratly restricting air flow...... like barkwindjammer with the camera lens (mint idea by the way shame i dont have a camera to do it) or drewpy with the cover (the simplest ideas are normally the best) . but anyway the inside diameter of the red silicone u-bend is 48mm, the aluminum pipe is about 44mm inside diameter and is 5 inch long (but is pushed right into the red silicone pipe), the tiles in the background are 5 inch each side. and it holds 525cc (1cc = 1 ml) of air. (not including the air filter) and it all comes off ebay .

im guessing the cone would go over the filter, and would have holes in it to allow the air through? if it is then it will be a pain in the backside to adjust for the engine. i had a thought earlier, i could do the valve and spring load it so it would open with the force of the engine ...all id have to do is get the right tension spring then when the engine is at higher revs the valve will open more allowing more air flow.

cheers for the comments. here is what iv got so far the problem is its too free, but putting that valve in the metal pipe in between the filter and hose will solve the problem......i hope. ppl have said that you need at least 130% of the engines capacity of air, after the carb and b4 the filter for it to rev properly ....well there is more than that available here. and the original airbox had a square k&n filter

i see your point as you could get a new exhaust system or some quality new tiers for the amount you pay for some forward controls, and unless your like me, a little mad and plan on keeping the bike for a long...long...time then its not really worth it. but .............they do look good here is an idea.....get a bracket made to move the pegs and controls forward by about an inch, only problems ur going to have is ur gonna need a bigger rod to the gear lever, and possibly will need to re-locate the brake switch... could be an idea. and would work out about £300 cheaper! ......hmmm i might try that when the weather gets better.

right il get u up to speed lol im putting a cbr 125 (2004) engine into an xvs dragstar frame, the engine has a ported/polished head and free flow exhaust, it runs fine WITH the original air filter and box, but the airbox wont fit into the frame as its too big. so the problem i have is replacing the air box with something else that will work.(im assuming you know a bit about engines) i cant just stick a cone filter on the carb as its too free and just wont work, so the idea is to put that pipe on and "restrict" the airflow the same amount as the airbox, (as the engine needs to suck the air through the carb to get the right mix ect ect) the best way i can think of is an adjustable butterfly valve to restrict the airflow allowing the engine to run the same as it did with the original airbox. problem is im making it from scratch and wondered if anyone can come up with a better idea of how to go about making the valve

i understand where ur coming from but just stopping it will cause more problems! would be better if they limited it to ppl born in the uk, iv been out of work for a while and i would love to get back to work! but i live in the middle of nowhere and have to rely on public transport. i can only get to and from work from 8am to 5pm, but all the jobs iv seen want me to do shift work and wont give any leeway! i have to use the benefit system to support my family and keep a roof on our heads till i can get my own transport and get back into work, so just stopping it will mean me and my family will be on the streets! but i do agree with stopping aid for single mothers under 18. as i know that girls go out just to get pregnant at 16 so they can get a house, get it decorated and furnished, and get a new wardrobe plus benefits! so if they knew that they would get no help they would think twice!

lol i dont want any m8 reservoir-dog wants some and if you get a good dragstar for say £1000 with forward controls swap them for original controls then you could sell it for £1300 (in the spring) need to clean it and get it sniney! plus if i wanted some really really bad id have a go at making some (yes i am mad! muha ha ha ha ha thats what 3 kids do to u m8 lmao )

no it cant replace a carb as you need something to do the air/fuel mix .....you could get fuel injection but its not worth the hastle to convert carb to fuel injection.