Paulwhite

ok say you take the main jet out the carb and have a look at the number itl say something like 95 for example what i mean buy 10.5 is add 10.5 to the jet size so 95 + 10.5 = 105.5 which should be the size of jet to go and get (its not an exact science as every engine is differant but its a good starting point) as to valves i havent got a clue best off getting a manual

if the head only has a couple of dints that are hardly noticeable then you can get away with it, but if there are deep chunks then ul need a new one. you could always sand the inside of the head, to smooth out the dents if you really wanted to (might even improve performance a little) just get some wet/dry on it and rub it for a week or two should sort it out lovely! you may also want to put a 0.5 bigger jet in to compensate for the work. hope this helps

i cant get you a picture but its behind the headlamp just left off the centre as your looking straight in between the top of the forks, if you take your headlamp and your handlebars off you should see it clear as day. at least thats where it is on mine

id soak it in wd40 and leve it for 30min then put a metal tube on the end of the rench (to legnthen the handle) and tap it with a hammer whilst gently aplying pressure normaly works

depends on what you want! it cost me £70 for the tier (all round road cheepo one), about £10 for the inner tube then another £10 to get the tier put on ! but most places will put it on free of charge if you buy the tiers from them, i did the mistake of trying to do it myself and found i couldnt, so had to shop around for the best price to get someone to put it on. went to 4 different places and the cheapest wanted £10 per wheel! but the 1st place i went to wanted £20 per wheel!!!!! talk about ripoff! but yeah unlucky m8 hope you get it sorted soon and id suggest getting the best tier you can afford! as you get what you pay for. but then again you might get away with just a new innertube! depends on how bad the tier is i suppose. (best get a freind to look at it as the person at the garage will just say u need a new one to get a sale ) oh and you would be better taking the wheel off the bike to save some cash as they will charge to take it off and put it back on. i used to lift mine onto a bit of wood on-top of some bricks to support it (probs best get someone to help ) had to do it in the snow once that was fun lol.

well im aiming to have it completed by christmas and on the road in spring next year if not sooner just depends on what funds i can scrape up lol

you can get thread converters so you can attach normal mirrors. and its because yammaha like you to buy their accessories and not aftermarket ones

the thing with ribs is ur throttle control and its just a plastic tube so you should be able to just about slide a screwdriver in-between the grip and plastic bit to put a little wd-40 in then pull it off (it will be a bit stiff but it dus come) when iv swapped my grips i didnt use any hairspray, petrol ect just put a little wd-40 on the handlebar then pushed it on (then after a day the wd40 had evaporated making the grip secure) but the hair spray would be a good idea!

hmmmmmmmmmmm salty wet finger lol

nah ur quite right it dont matter if there yammy ones or not just need to find some the right size, i can get them the right legnth but its the bolt holes that im having troble with cause there 14mm !??! most that iv seen are only 10mm but guess i could modify them to fit 14mm. im not fussed if there new or not iv put aside 80 quid to spend on them so il just go for the ones which need the least work. i tend not to look at the ones with no dimentions as my way of thinking is if they wont put decent details up then what are they trying to hide? so il only look at ones with good details.

good marble idea!! might use that one but use stones off the road instead, then you can say it flicked up off the road

the idea is to lower the seat height (to have it closer to the rear tier) with the original shocks the seat height is above the wheel but with smaller shocks it looks like your sat on the wheel, lowering the ride height it also gives the impression that the forks are larger and raked more so your sat almost tilting back instead of straight. the rear fender isnt going to be the rear fender cause its too narrow on the wheel so im using it for the front and re-doing the rear fender a bit wider to go with the flow of the bike. and its not on the frame its just sat on the wheel so yeah a little too close lol when i get round to fixing it on im gonna use bottle caps to space it off the wheel . and i suggest not chopping ur drag to bits until its knackerd or you have another bike. if you do decide to do it (when uv got ur license and another bike) id suggest getting a bigger engine! the one im getting for this is a 125cc 15bhp pitbike engine and is costing me about a grand (only cause its being tuned and has fancy doo dars on it ) but for the same price i could have a 26bhp 160cc oil cooled beast, but since iv only got a provisional (need a car for the misses and kids) i could only get the 125cc to be legal but defiantly something worth thinking about.

when u take the cover off the carb the main jet is in the middle and is wider than the pilot jet (which is next to it and is quite long compared to the main jet) now cause its a 4 stroke you wont increase top end speed by putting in a bigger main jet ul just give it a little more torque but if u do decide to put straight through exhausts on then it will sort of equal things out a little. il give u a tip (if you decide to do it) do one thing at a time wether it be putting in a main jet or changing the needle length cause u dont want to do a load of things to find it wont run properly and have to go through everything uv done to source the problem (its a pain in the arse when that happens!) but yeah its quite simple just a bit tedious. but if you get stuck just pm me and i can go through it with u.

ok have you had it serviced? cause ur only doing 50mph it sounds like the engine needs servicing along with the air filter, spark plugs ect iridium spark plugs wont make any difference on a 125 (well you wont feel any difference) if it was me id get a straight through exhaust (or take the baffles out) clean the carb and increase the main jet by 10.5 put a better air filter on it (or use a new standard one, depends if it worked with a free flow air filter) and lower the sprocket size by 3 or 4 teeth on the rear that way you would increase the torque and the acceleration, and hopefully it would get to 60 mph or at least 50mph a bit quicker. i dont think the pit bike cdi will work, plus if it did fit, it could potentially blow your engine.

probably a sports exhaust, decent air filter, might need a cdi unit, plus ul need to be 17 or over and get insurance (good luck with that one lol) but you would be better off buying a 125cc second hand cause it would work out cheeper.

could you get at the rust yourself by putting a rag soaked in fuel on a stick and rub it till its gone? cause you can get a diy inner sealant and do it yourself, or just pay them to re-seal the tank or visa versa. im not sure if you can get away with not sealing it to prevent rust, guess the question is can petrol cause oxidization in the metal? i havent needed to do this myself so i cant give you a definitive answer but im sure someone will point you in the right direction.

right another update the fender and seat still need to be finished so what ur looking at is just the bare fibreglass, the front looks too high on the photos but its actually the right height the seat springs are pure custom made, i got a spring from an old mini moto front fork choped it in half, welded both springs to the removable bracket that is under the seat, and used the rubber gromets from the bracket to hold the seat to the springs. the seat looks flimsey but is realy strong!! iv decided to use the rear fender shown on the pics for the front wheel as iv choped too much off the sides and the lines of the bike dont look right so im going to re do the rear fender and make it a little wider.

oh re jetting is easy! the only problem ul get into is finding the right size jets. if u pay someone then uv got to pay for the jets plus whateva they charge for labour!!! so going off £36 per hour and say £7 for the jets ur looking at £43 quid! the only hard part to re- jetting is taking the carb off. i think the dragstar has a 90 main jet so if u put a straight through exhaust ul b wanting a 95 or 100 main jet (buy the 100 1st to see if its ok if its too much then go down to 95) if it starts and runs with the new exhaust and jets then do a plug check, adjust the carb to get the mix right..... done if it wont start after putting the exhaust on then ur going to need a 0.5 or 1.0 bigger pilot jet to sort it out. then just hope you dont blow ur piston rings lol best thing to do is bring it to mine and pay me 20 quid to sort it out lol, i can get main jets for £1 a pop but the pilot jets cost anywhere up to £7.

hi im needing to find some rear shocks for my xvs 125 bobber project but cant find any im needing the shocks to be 230mm (minimum) and have 14mm bolt holes preferably in chrome/ black/ white or red iv looked on ebay and found some 230mm shocks but the bolt holes are only 10mm so im struggeling to find any the size i need plus im not too sure how far they will compress once there on the bike. just wonderd if anyone could point me in the right direction?

could try a cheep set of "street fighter" headlamp brackets ?

to b honest i havent been looking m8, iv been too busy making fenders and the seat lol but the tiers iv got at the mo are still in good nick (done less than 500 miles on them) so once its all sorted il get on to sourcing the whitewall tiers, if i cant find any then might see what painting them would be like, iv seen some proper tier paint but its 20 quid a tin iv got to post an update after iv fixed the rear fender (cut a little too much fiberglass off) but its coming along and looks like a totally different bike! still need to find some 250mm shocks with 16mm eyes iv got 2 sets of shocks that are too big for the look im wanting.

yup im on there lol can see my ears and everything

for best results id suggest a decent hacksaw and take the time to get a good finish. personally id crack out the grinder with a metal cutting disk on it and cut it that way but dont know what it would do to the chrome due to the heat(could crack/peal or turn a funny colour) but saying that...it is an exhaust so might be ok. but you will need another exhaust for it to pass the mot and ur looking at about 300 quid for a standard set. i did something like this with my sachs roadster it had a similar exhaust system to the drag but needed a new one, so i decided to hack at the old one and took the top muffler off and the baffles out, its now a very loud 2 into 1 straight through pipe. looks good too!

id sugest getting hold of a brand new set of standard exhausts so u can put them on for the mot, then on the old set chop the muffler about half way (at an angle) then ul b left with some nice slashcuts il show u in a pic. soz for the quality lol but i had to use paint but it gives u the general idea