Paulwhite

have a search on the forum, loads of people on here have dt's and their is years worth of info on here. no doubt someone in the past has had the same problem you have m8. as to high gears the higher the gear the less pulling power you get ! its because its a 125 and should only have 15bhp max (by law) and in terms of getting to a high speed fast 15bhp is rubbish.

i agree an off road bike would be better for the conditions. kalum, my rear axle/ swingarm is all original, and the spacer counter sinks into the hub so only allows for a small gap between arm and hub, dont worry about the width of the swing arm, as long as you use the proper parts / measurements all will be fine. because the arm is bent its not resting properly on the spacer so the back wheel is out of alignment. that knock on the front suspension sounds like it bottoming out. one way to check if you need new seals is to see if there is any oil on the chrome bit, if there is lots of oil deposits then you need new seals. now a quick fix to try and stop it knocking is to undo the nut at the top of the arm (front suspension forks) and top it up with "fork oil" you want it about 2-3 inch from the top, you will need to lift the front of the bike off the floor. as to tools i normally buy the sets which have all the sizes then take out the ones that fit the bike. also you said something like the FRONT tire is wearing out on the left and not in the middle? if it is, then that bike has had a car or something crash into the left hand side of it! and that is bad ...verry verry bad and not worth the money you will spend fixing it. neversaydie has a good point, the bike sounds like it needs allot of work to get it perfect, plus you wont know what else might be wrong with it, so dont spend allot of money on it! you would be better off getting an off road bike of some kind, as there designed to do what you want it to do. how much do you think it would cost to import a bike from the uk?

you should have a small spacer where you circled it in red, separating the hub from the swing arm. and a big spacer on the other side. from what i can see in the photo the little spacer (circled in red) isnt there! but you would still need to bend the swingarm so its straight. if you lift the bike up off the floor so the back wheel is off the floor, then you can take the back wheel off, then get a freind to hold the bike while you bend the swing arm back, get a long metal bar (4-5 feet), put one end in the hole where the wheel bolt goes on the left side (the bent side), SLOWLY AND GENTLY! put pressure on it till its straight, then if its higher than the right one put a block of wood on top and hit the wood with a hammer till its leval with the other one (right side one) and dont panic you wont need a new part, just take your time to fix the old part. if you dont have a spacer then you could try and get one, or il give you the measurements and you could make one out of some metal tube. here is the best pic iv got or the rear axle (il have to take another one) but you can see the spacer on the right, and there is a little gap inbetween the hub and swingarm on the left. in the wheel hub is a spacer.

well if you make the swingarm good then it should sort it out. for the front fork oil seals try www.wemoto.com they will have them and will also have the gaskets just need to check to see if they can deliver to you if not then at least you will have a price. the oil filter is near your right foot, in the engine, there is a cover with the word yamaha on it and 3 bolts holding it on, just undo the 3 bolts and take the cover off and you will see it. there will be oil in it so put something under it to catch the oil.

yeah should be fine. i just said 3 days as a guide and thats doing it as slow as posible lol but if your good with a spanner you could get it done in a day no problem!

yeah everything is on that sticker well.....was, think your best bet is give the dvla a call and see where you stand

yeah i remember lol there are some things you can do to the bike to make it better off road, like longer springs/shocks on the back this will make it a little higher. id also say clean your air filter at least once a week as it will get clogged with all the dust, and if you wanted to you could put a very thin material round the air filter cover to help keep the dust and stuff out. and that is a good read! wish i could do something like that

would be mint to do a music vid with us all meeting up on a rally lol get the moderators with there bikes in the background to do the verses then each member in a mint location doing the y o c or visa versa lmao post it on youtube and be an internet sensation lol

that is not good kelum! looks like its had a bang at some point in its life. the only way you could fix it is to take the swing arm off and then bend it back into shape but your going to need some new swing arm bushes, (plastic or rubber tubes that go in between the bolt and swing arm) either that or get a new swing arm. its not a small job to do, as you need to lift the bike off the floor, take the back wheel off then undo the bolts that hold it onto the frame, its going to take about 3 days to do it, 1 day to take it off, 1 day to make it good, then 1 day to put it back together. if you take it off and put it on a flat floor you can see how bad it is and fix it from there. but i wouldnt ride it like it is, as it looks dangerous. could you put a picture up looking directly at the back with the bike standing vertical then i can have a better look

if your defo going to sell her then dont put the new fender on just add it with the bike and let the new owner decide, and 800 sounds good for a quick sale. if you put a buy now price of 900 then if anyone wants it now they can lol

well there is a metal plate under the seat which then attaches to the frame so you could always put the srings on that (im asuming your wanting a srung seat) then the bracket at the bottom of the tank can come off to give you a little more room. but its just a case of trial and error. the easyest option would be to get a non sprung seat and just fit it on. with the ape hangers you might need longer cables as there is only about an extra 2-3 inch you can get out of them. and as far as i know as long as the rear light has a stop, tail and indicators that can clearly be seen and are e-marked it dont matter!

well say 35 for the fender and 30 for the motor then 15 for postage total £80 and will be with you for wednesday next week? thats if all goes to plan! the misses is over due to give birth by 6 days, and they are inducing her on monday if she dont pop. so if she goes into labor it might be as late as friday or even the week after if they need to do a c section (fingers crossed they dont!) but il keep you informed and get them sent to you a.s.a.p! just thought id pre warn u

ok m8 shal we go back to the original plan? you send me the cash and il send you the fenders and motor all in one go?

well if you sell the drag for the cost of the test say £700 (im not sure) then you will still have 2 grand to play with and for a grand you could get a decent 400cc - 600cc then use the rest to insure it for the year think a half decent xvs 125 is going for about £1000 (realistically), some go for £1300 and top whack iv seen is £1500!

lol a HD is alot of money! probs more than what its worth lol if it was me id go custom streetfighter with a gsxr oh forgot to ask u still wantin that motor? or are u gonna wait and see what the mechanic sais?

ah fair play m8 was gonna say if you have a full battery and it just does 1 click and nothing, then its the starter relay, but always best to have a full battery for these things! but as iv said it could only be 1 of 3 things, the battery, starter motor, or relay. there all connected so its just trouble shooting to isolate the problem. its a shame you dont live near me cause i could come round and sort it out for u. (love doing this sort of shit lol) what bike were you thinking of getting next? lol (if you do decide to sell yours)

ok that sounds like the starter solenoid. ok that wire that comes from the starter motor with the rubber thingy over it goes to the starter solenoid which then connects to the positive on the battery, it will look like a black box with 2 30amp fuses on it, and connects direct to the battery. bypass it by putting something metal on each of the 2 big wire's and linking them together (this will then make the starter moter turn) if the bike starts up then its the solenoid ....and guess what! iv got one of them anall lol

im doin the same m8 with the bobber project lol if by fasteners you mean bar risers then take a look on ebay as there are loads and are quite a reasonable price, as to a side mounted number plate the only way iv come up with so far is to fabricate a bracket and attach it to where the rear foot pegs would have gone. otherwise you would have to weld a bracket to the swing arm. or make some struts for the rear swing arm to replace the shocks (makes it a hard tail) plus you could attach the number plate to them. and your bars are 7/8. with lights iv gone on ebay as there are some good bargains on there. are you going for original old school or just a bobber stile? the old school involves taking anything off you dont need! like cosmetic plastics. then making custom parts to fit, like the seat and fenders ect. but if your happy with just the bobber stile then there are loads of bolt on parts on ebay, probably would need a little fabricating as allot of the parts will be for Harley's and wont fit properly.

thingy is just a form of slang (means we cant remember what its called but we know what it is) and wier is poor spelling lol it is ment to be wire

the bolt that holds the wier on is the positive comming from the starter solenoid and links directly to the battery when you press the switch if you do what i said and it starts ok then all you need to do is put a good bit of wier from the bolt on the starter motor to a bolt on the frame (make sure its bare metal) then it should earth it properly unless the earth linking to the battery is at fault. then all you would need to do is put a good bit of wier from the negative on the battery to the frame (as the frame acts as earth)

then start it up ...if you can is the wier and connection under the rubber thingy clean? if not take it apart and wier brush it till its shiney then put it back together.

no lol undo a bolt that holds the starter motor on then get some wier (iv used speaker wier) and wrap it round the bolt then tighten it back up, then connect the other end to the negative on the battery.

if you do what i said, and it starts up then you will know that you have a faulty earth if it dont start up then its the motor

nice one m8 im defiantly going to need some soon so if you could then id be grateful iv just got to sort out the new diagram to figure out what exactly im going to need with regards to length and colours but was looking at getting a couple of meters of about 8 different colours. im thinking of runing 2 looms one for engine and one for lights, and using the cbr 125 loom diagram as a guide.