Paulwhite

i keep getting a blank page with this message.....not sure if its the site or my laptop, but i have to go to google then click my shortcut again to get back on.. message im getting :- Fatal error: Out of memory (allocated 25427968) (tried to allocate 32 bytes) in /var/www/vhosts/yamahaclub.com/httpdocs/forums/ips_kernel/classDbMysqliClient.php on line 488

i had to do some work on the frame .....mainly the back end, touched some welds up, got rid of some rust and patched a hole so thought id best prime the bare metal .....i know i could of got away with it but better safe than sorry. i think its gloss but i ended up using a brush as i didnt have time at work to spray it .....hasnt turned out too bad but its not show quality and as for pics il have to take some

noticed he hasnt been on in a while just wonderd if he was ok?

well its had 2 coats of hammerite direct to rust primer then 3 coats of hammerite direct to rust smooth black just waitin for the final coat to dry in the sun

any increase in the air/fuel ratio will wear out your piston rings faster.......plus you will be playing about for a while to get the mix right! i tried it once...... took me 2 weeks to find that without a complete carb overhaul (pilot, main and jet needle size) you needed the airbox to get it going.

managed to get just enough orders for the price to be in the lower bracket (less than £15 or £20 each), but i didnt have the cash to get it going , i was going to pay for the printing screens to be made (something like 100 quid but cant remember), then people pay and tell me the size, id get all the sizes t shirt then get the whole lot done and deliverd. il post the web adress on monday when i get back from work as the factory is opposit ours.

you have to admire the simplicity of it lol tanker drivers "we might strike but we might not" government "we need cash and something to take the public eye off us for a while so just say take precautions" public (well the twits anyway) go on a mad panic, fill up and empty the pumps the government get a cash injection that they can report back to, saying they made so much in the financial year plus it takes the public eye off them for a week while they push things through under the radar, the tanker drivers dont go on strike, the petrol stations have made a killing by bumping up the price, and all the twits have a tank of fuel that cost a bomb over nothing. as was put earlier government 1 jo public 0

hmmmmm......you could get one made i suppose for about 3-400 quid they charge per bend in the pipe last time i looked into it.

lol .....look at the pics then read what i put (it will make sense ) i cant find the carb body that i had ...it was the one off the dragstar but i do have another full carb that will fit its off an xv 125 virago the only difference is the jets used and a bit of the casing is slightly different. but will fit straight on the only thing id suggest is take it to bits and check the jet sizes (thats if you decide you want it) as i swapped out all the internals but cant remember which engine i set it up for. iv still got most of the internals from the other carb like a selection of main jets, a couple of pilot jets, ect (from the dragstar carb) so if your interested just pm me then we can sort something out.

or get another carb body and swap all the internals if you cant get it out or kill your carb iv got an old spare carb body in the shed you could have but its just the bare carb body........il have to have a dig to see if i can find it.

if its rounded off ur gonna have problems! you cant drill it without killing the carb, best thing would be to get one of those special bits that cuts into the head to get a grip and turn it out, then replace the screw

cover??? can u take a pic ........as far as i know there isnt a cover. if you look at the round side of the carb (dont open it up) where the spring is that pushes the plunger with the needle on it. just under it (on the outside) (there is a wire that comes out of the heater element to the right of it) .........there is a little brass screw there which is your air/fuel mix screw. if you take it out it will go to a sharp point and have a spring and a couple of rubber rings on it. should be 3 turns out from seated for a standard setup ......but do u know how to set it for your engine?

there is one on the original carb! its under the round cover on the jet needle side (opposit the float bowl )

well im gonna be boring and stick to black lol

well the frame is out and im running low on funds ......need to paint the frame as iv sorted out some rust and taken the old paint off.... iv got a spray booth at work that i can use and a barrel of xylene if i need it .....but my question is what would be the better paint to use?? im looking to spend max 20 quid but im after a paint that will be long lasting and withstand the salt, rain, rust and general abuse that i throw at it.

the stand switch acts like the switch on the right controls, when its on it stops the spark signal, so the bike will try to start but nothing will spark so the engine wont run. the symptoms your saying sound like its a spark problem. look in the manual it will tell you how to check the coils. and dont give up! just think what you know now that you didnt know when you started! you started out not knowing what the problem was or where it was coming from and now you have narrowed it down to just a few components since you have taken it apart and inspected the majority of the engine id put it down to a spark problem as the engine and carb is fine. its just a case of finding exactly where it is things i would check:- spark on sparkplugs. take the plugs out, put the ht plug on the sparkplug, with some insulated pliers hold the sparkplug so the bottom is touching an earth point (a bolt or similar) then press the starter button. (should be a nice blue spark) next id check the coils, ht leads and caps (mainly the bolts that hold the coils on as its a main earth point) if that dont sort the problem then next up would be the wiring then the ecu and battery.

it meant dont try and clean the chain by having the wheel off the floor and the engine running! thats how you end up telling everyone why you only have 2 fingers on 1 hand

dont worry im in the process of re-painting the lot and getting rid of any rust i find. im going to coat the frame in some special stuff at work (similar to epoxy resign but better) my main concern was that my bike has only been on the road for 4 years from new so i was quite surprised to find a hole that size after such a short period of time. as to rust being in the frame, it is possible but also can be prevented by spraying waxoil into the frame.

not a clue m8 best off asking when u do your cbt

^^^ what he said.

there definatly worth taking if you can afford it!

it should be an even tightness with 2inch of play , best lube it or get a new one (if its worn out and stiff in areas) best thing would be to clean and lube it with chain lube every week.

in that case .....no add on part will make it "safer" to ride. if you have the crash bars and fender trims then fine it could help. but the main thing to being "safe" is riding safely, doing all your lifesavers, and treating everybody else on the road like they have just escaped from the loony bin! expect that car to pull out on you, expect that buss to sudenly stop dead, expect a car to overtake round a blind corner and nearly knock you off. ........im not trying to put you off just saying the best way to be safe when riding is to expect other people to do stupid things.

ok so the cam, valves and timing are fine. the carb is clean (and set to a basic setup) the black inlet manifold is on properly compression is good the air box (black tube going to filter) is attached and not leaking. the filter is on with no leaks the sparkplugs are ok the wiring is sorted the exhaust is on the emergency stop switch is turned off (would cause a puff of smoke or a backfire if on) the fuel tap is on prime the choke is half way. how old is the fuel in the tank? (might be worth using fresh fuel) and what color are your spark plugs...are they soaked in fuel after starting? and your sure the ecu is fine? try starting the bike without choke and half throttle (or blip the throttle) as it could be over fueling with the choke on my next thought would be to put the bike together and bump start it. (get a m8 to push down a hill or on a flat road, with you on it, in 2nd gear with clutch in then let go of the clutch and keep pushing while you blip the throttle) im only sugesting the bump start as the last thing to try as it should force the engine to fire/ start (the oil in the cylender trick prooves that the piston rings are worn) but the bump start should get it going.

put no more than a teaspoon of oil in the spark plug hole, crank the engine over 4 or 5 times (without ht lead but with spark plug in) then pop the ht lead back on the spark plug and try to start. if it starts 1st time then u know its the piston rings. if not then start looking for other causes......is the petrol on?....is it set to prime with 1/2 choke?