Paulwhite

the lid might be new but i bet she's had a few bangs and scratches

yeah iv seen them small turbo's they were originaly made to reduce the lag on big turbos but still a bad idea for a little bike.

right cheers iv had to chop the original front mounts off to accommodate the exhaust, but wont take much to knock some new ones up iv got the plates threaded so the bolt threads through the mounts then threads through the frame mounts then iv put nylock nuts on the end to make sure

are you purposly trying to destroy ur engine? lmao if its a normal turbo ul need about £400 worth of custom exhaust and about £1000 for someone to fit and make it work. if its an electric turbo then its about £500 for someone to fit and make work as to life expectancy of engine .....6 miles if ur lucky better yet just fill ur tank with a half and half mix of petrol and NO2 (nitro oxide) but saying that have you seen the dyson digital motor? look it up on google hmmmm.......electric turbo........ its the same motor in those fancy hand dryers in posh bogs

hi all im cracking on with the xvs bobber got the v5 back from the dvla with the engine change and all is well my question is a bit of a weird one but how many engine mounts do you need? im asking cause at the moment mine has 2, top and bottom at the back, there made out of 4mm thick steel (that stuff that is fookin solid and needs to be professionally machined as it will eat up any commercial tool bits) they hold the engine perfectly to the frame and if anything, the engine will snap before they do but would it pass an mot with only 2 mounts instead of 3? iv only got a little 125cc 14bhp engine so in my eyes it wont cause a problem.....but im not sure. any help would be apreciated cheers. Paul.

i dont know how to check with a voltmeter im afraid all i know is to hook it up to the coil and do a visual check on the plug. you could try hooking the volt meter up to the good side and see what sort of readings you get then use that as a basic for the broken side. what i do know is that its not the actual stator that sends the signal its a pulse coil which is located in the left side engine casing... if you can find the plug that connects engine to loom there will be 3 wires(all the same colour either white or yellow normally) there the ones from the stator, then on the same plug should be a red and a black (or earth) then you should be able to see another set of wires (not sure on colour but should be 2 of them) there the pulse coil wires that send the signal to the cdi i can send you a xvs 125 dragstar manual via e-mail both the virago and the dragstar use the same engine (with minor alterations) which might be helpfull but if one side isnt firing and the coil is ok id check that you havent got a broken wire somewhere in the loom. or a loose connector. the cdi is a sealed unit and there is no way of checking it im afraid other than to "borrow" a working one to swap and try. to be honest i think that will be the simplest idea, then if the "borrowed" cdi dont work you know its the connection from cdi to coil.

dont take offense but i havent a clue what ur getting at are you having trouble fitting ur boot between the peg and gearshift? or are you saying there too high up? if you could post a pic (or a link) of the harly part then that would be a big help. if your looking for longer levers then i think ur out of luck with this bike...but have you considered putting floorboards on, instead of pegs? i know for a fact that you can get floorboards for the 125/250 and will give you more room for ur feet.

yeah id agree with kelum on this one check that the plugs are sparking. then put ur thumb over the spark plug hole (to seal it) then push the start switch...your thumb should be pushed off and air should escape through the hole. the idea is to check compression you should be able to push against it as hard as you can but air will still push ur thumb and escape. if you find that there is little to no pressure then im afraid its ur piston ring. but hopefully it will be fine

ebay m8 only problems are there 4 and a half inch so the choke lever makes contact with the tank (well with drag bars anyway) plus they need 12 mm bolts so u need to drill the bushes in the yoke, then u need washers between yoke and risers to support them properly.

ummm no thats not a good sign at all but as u said lets hope its just a flooded engine in the past if the bike starts up ok and runs fine then it should be ok .....but keep an eye on the oil. and to keep ur mind at rest if it was a broke oil seal then you would get blue smoke from the exhaust or a leek. the only thing that would cause petrol to enter the crankcase is as you said a flooded engine or a stuck float needle in the carb. but uv cleaned the carb and ur gonna look after the bike so dont worry about it

posably and come to think of it...it makes a sence. im gonna check the timing at some point, wont hurt to check iv got some new springs in the shed that might do the trick but there 24lbs racing springs for a honda gx 160 engine il do some reading/research to see if there compatable or not (probably not lol). cheers OG ur a time saver il report back once iv had a play

right iv put the pump on and moved the needle up a notch (ended up putting a washer on ) but the problem is still there. iv taken the filter off to have a look at what the carbs doing when it revs.....and found at 9k rpm it spits out the air/fuel mix through the filter. i reckon the timings out but would like a 2nd opinion b4 i start taking the engine to bits.

seems strange that 2 separate carbs ave jammed on you..... have you got a filter between tank and carb? could just be some dirt in the fuel tank causing the needle valve in the float to stick.

well i did originally have that bit of pipe (48mm silicone u bend) between the filter and carb but found that the engine ran rich and wouldnt go past 8k rpm (got quite hot too) , but with the filter straight to carb, the engine revs to 10500 rpm (which it should do) and the plug is looking ok. im just touching full throttle when i get to 9k rpm i get what ur saying about fuel starvation but surely that would cause the engine to bog down once i hit 9k rpm?? (not sure on that one ) and i would love to change the needle position but i cant as its not adjustable (well suppose i could make it richer using washers) its a keihen carb by the way.....dont suppose you know of any websites to take a look at for jets and things? could try re-jetting i suppose.... but id rather figure out why the engine dips b4 i start making changes. im gonna have a play tomoz and put the fuel pump back on, then il report back oh forgot to mention, is there a way of making the tank gravity fed instead of it needing a vacuum?

i tend to find its dead slippy till it either gets hot again or it rains for a couple of days to wash all the crud away. worst time to ride (well what iv learnt) is the 1st decent bit of sunshine after winter unless there is a heavy rainfall to wash all the salt and crud (have you seen when the roads turn white? and not due to snow! ). and also when you get a spot of rain when its been nice (seems to lift all the crud up again)

there is a filter on the petcock in the tank .....but its clean...im usin the xvs 125 tank (turned it to prime to test run it plus it dont have the pump on ...just a straight line from tank to carb) il double check tomoz but its only doing it at 9000 rpm sort of pulls to 9k rpm then drops off for a split second then pulls again to 10500 rpm but its a little rough from when it drops off. could it be a flat spot do u think? i have got a pod filter and race exhaust

hi all been a while since iv asked for help but iv managed to get the project going right.... iv given it a test run today and have noticed that at 9000 rpm the engine sort of splutters then kicks in again (like iv changed gear) but its a little rough from 9000 up the plug is reading ok if not a little lean....its a weird problem that i havent come across before so was just wondering if anyone has an answer to why its spluttering? cheers. Paul.

right sort of ignore the last post ....iv just had a look at my carb....ur right it is that screw but you shouldnt need to drill anything as the cap should just pull off ... no 10 on the diagram is the mixture screw. as to the pump (if your going off the diagram then its not the pump) the pump is a seperate componant to the carb but its just bolted to the frame so should be ok to take it off.

no thats not the screw u want so whatever u do dont drill owt!

nice looking bike m8 and dont look like its in bad nick some nice extras like the pipes and sissy bar/rack (£150 new by the way) the rust under the headlamp it just the cover and a bit of surface rust on the underside of the aluminium yoke.....quite suprised the side pannels are in that condition...normaly there the 1st to go. but yeah nice bike m8

ooo thats not good if ur mixture screw is buggerd......suppose its a case of try and get the screw out then replace with a new one im not sure how you would go about it though. but anyway it could just be a bit of dirt in ur pilot jet causing it to run rough....... plus the plugs shouldnt be black these engines are set purposely to run lean which makes me wonder if ur mixture is set properly.....if you do decide to clean the carb the needle should be set in the middle (its what there set at when they come out of the factory) if you cant get the mixture screw out then i might be able to help iv got a spare carb body...but it literally is just the cast bit ....no jets, covers, or owt .

there is a guy on here who is lookin for a 250 drag! his screen name is littlepig pm him as he will be interested!.....to be honest i think quite a few ppl on here would be interested .....if you want a good price then id sugest posting it in the "for sale" section there is a small membership fee but it would be worth it. as to price....need to know more details like milage, how old it is, service history, and what paperwork you have for it. and also some detailed pics.

24! and you??? lol

or the oil?

lol well iv got a handy next door neighbor who has relatives over there, so all iv got to worry about is the description but yeah good deal m8 u should sell the surplus parts and make a profit! ....(its a full tank of fuel at least!)