like2strokeansmoke

I know this is basic but if you haven't stripped the clutch yet I was wondering if you had tried warming the engine and then turning it off and then bump/crash starting the bike in gear and once it's going pulling in the clutch and giving it a rev. It's worked for me in the past as my bikes have often stood idle whilst I've been overseas. Have fun

Cheers, I'm sure yours will be put together the same way, it's impossible not too! The bike's handling much better and I take it for a blast every sunny day at the moment - and today was sunny!

The forks are back together the way they were and I have to conclude the Yamaha diagram is wrong (surprisingly).

Hi Guys I've just stripped the forks on my '78 DT400 because they were stiff and the head bearings needed replacing (- and I'm still having to adjust the 'All Balls' replacement roller kit as the taller top bearing [as original balls only 1/4"], means the triple clamp fouls the bearing locknut). When I disassembled and removed the damper internals the parts discribed as ; No 13 "Cylinder comp" (on the parts diagram) had part No 12 - "Piston" fitted, AFTER the drilled aluminiumc cone, onto the shaft were it was free to slide up and down the "Cylinder Comp". I find I'm unable to assemble the unit, as per the drawing, as the aluminium cone piece, at the end of the "Cylinder Comp" ,has a bigger diameter than the inside of the stanction. Therefore the internal circlip (part No 11) can not be fitted?!! Is the Diagram correct?? The Aluminium cone had been assembled AFTER the internal circlip was fitted when I opened it up. Cheers