Vez

Is it real ?

Did you even read my post???

The reed switch restricts your speed to 60ish mph, but i have read that removing it completely can cause problems (i.e cutting it out), so the way to solve this is to move it away from the speedo face. "The speed is restricted by means of a reed switch which is mounted in the rear of the speedo. It tells the CDI when the bike reaches 60mph and stops the revs from increasing. To remove the speedo restriction take off the headlamp cowl and pull out the spring clips holding the speedo in. Then unscrew the speedo cable and lift up the clock. You will see two things in the bottom of the clock casing. One is round and is the light bulb for the clock, the other is white and oblong. This is the reed switch and you carefully prise it out and tuck it to one side out of the clock. I suggest you put it in a bag and tuck it as far away as possible. Do not cut or disconnect it. " taken from http://dtr125.net/tuningf.htm You may also want to read OG's thread http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/20583-de-restricting-my-dt125r/ Vez.

Just a thought, maybe its the clutch cable vibrating in the wind etc. when you pull it and add tension it would help keep it still. Only a crazy thought. Vez.

Hey Tick, try here for a piston http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_DT125R_Engine_Parts_Top_End.html not sure how fast you will get it though. I don't know the difference between the pistons without a little research. Vez.

Happy Birthday Drewpy, hope you have a good one!

I can't say i agree with the most expensive helmets having the better protection. i remember reading a review (in the mcn or somewhere) where they cut various different brand helmets open on a band saw and the better helmet wasn't the most expensive(can't remember what make won). I would avoid cheaper helmets though, and beware of fake Chinese imports that sometimes have the ACU sticker on, if you buy from somewhere reputable you have a better chance of getting the real deal than buying online. A well fitted bad quality helmet will offer better protection than a poor fitting high quality one. Just thought i would add as it hasn't been mentioned, make sure it has the ACU safety marks i.e the ACU gold sticker on the back of the helmet .

I like the ridge up the center of the tank . Its taking shape nicely now Drewpy. What colour are you going for? Henry Ford style by any chance?

See your NW200, and raise you one, Steve Hislop 1994 TT lap. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=dg_mCS8B550 http://www.youtube.c...h?v=dH5GttPQw1U

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=EzjkBwZtxp4 http://www.youtube.c...h?v=BMCSjPJ9rzs

Hey Luke, welcome to the forum You can get indicators, just find some universal type ones you like and make them fit, the wiring will be straight forward enough. Same probably goes for the headlight too. I will have a look at the indicators etc. on the 57 YBR rental i have at the moment and see if i can find any info for you, if i get time over the weekend that is. As for asking questions in another language, try a translator http://translate.google.com/# you will find alot of the time that some one will speak English on most foreign forums and will help you out for at least trying to speak in their language. I have to say, you picked a strange bike to "pimp out" so to speak Btw where abouts in the UK you from? Vez.

Damn grass!!!

Sorry for the late reply, been really busy with end of year college work. Anyway, from the sound of the gudgeon pin damage(the tube thing holding the con-rod and piston together), i think that some one has replaced an old cir-clip instead of using new when they have fitted the piston and they are known for coming out when reused. What has probably caused the damage with the piston melting is a lean fuel/air mixture (too much air) making the bike run hotter, more than likely caused by fitting the after market exhaust and air-filter. To fix this you need a larger main jet in the carb, I think the standard size is a 210 and you should probably have a 240 or 250 depending on the air filter type. And also check for any air leaks around the rubber inlet manifold. There are other problems that may have contributed to the damage, so you really should get a second opinion from someone who can see the bike before fitting anything. Probably not what you want to hear, but it would be for the best. Vez.

How can you get stuck anywhere? It has pedals. Never had to push a bike to the nearest petrol station?, or do the middle of the moors have petrol stations round your way? But i do agree with look of the thing and wouldn't touch it if someone payed me! 2-stroke all the way for me.

Who are you again? Sounds like fun, well except for the waiting around. Any pics? Vez

Great stuff. So that means my DTR has a top speed of Sixty six billion, two hundred and sixty four million, six thousand and nine hundred and fifty five... miles per hour

Im getting very confused as to what is actually wrong with your bike now. I think you should start a new thread of your own and start from the beginning with the problems with the bike ect. as it may atract more viewers and advice. Why is your bike not running? what problems were you having to make you decide the bike wasn't running? So many questions make it hard to give accurate advice. A black piston is nothing to worry about, its just carbon buildup like you get in your exhaust port etc. would be an idea to clean it up while the bike is apart though. Are you sure the cylinder is scratched and not just the honing marks? Pictures are always a great help, especially when you start a new thread. Vez.

I wasn't attacking you, apologies if it came across like that. It doesn't make sense that someone would sell you a piston kit with the 3FU00 if the cylinder needed repairing. If the 3FU00 is ok, then fit that with the piston kit you have. IF the 3FU00 does need re-coating, then I would take your 3MB00 to a place and get a price for repairing it. If it is repairable and cheaper to do than the 3FU00, then I would take the 3FU00 back and get a refund and spend the cash on the 3MB00 and a Mitaka piston kit. This is just my opinion. Vez.

The original cylinder 3MB00 will be ALOT cheaper to repair. If you have paid 100€ for the 3FU00 cylinder and it needs re-coating you have been ripped off, take it back and get a refund.

I second that. ^^ Who told you that mitaka are are poor quality ? , do they work for Yamaha by any chance?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/8683750.stm?ls

i can see them now, prefer the second one, but keeping a copy of both.

Shame i just get the words "posted image" with no picture showing, any one else get the same?

Unless my schooling let me down big time its a 5 wire servo Funny, before i scrolled down to the text, my first thought on seeing the pic was "that looks SCARY"

Tanks looking nice Drewps. Is it steel?